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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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"I purchased it because of plans to do a second ascent of a grade V in SEKI."--fattrad
Sounds like a lie, but only you would know that, right--as no one really cares or checks on your lame climbing boasts.
Which one of your TWO hammers do you plan to use on it, or both? (WOS and NUTCRACKER models)
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raymond phule
climber
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Can someone tell what was written in the R&I article?
Which one of your TWO hammers do you plan to use on it, or both? (WOS and NUTCRACKER models)
:) Are you really sure that he has TWO hammers?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This route was never A5 to begin with and no different than reported by Thaw, Wilson and company on their one day attempt that ended at the top of pitch #5.
One of the shitters did in fact lead the first and now crux pitch (by the early report from The Shitters Hotline) which should half silence the "gotta do the route to say anything" crowd.
"Tricky but not hard."
No redemption here for Poor Richard, Mark or Pete and his fishing pole!
A3+ Word, Last Word! LOL
Bring on the Pink Ponies of Painful Surprise while you can Dweebsie...
Harrrrr! Me buckos!
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raymond phule
climber
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So the last word is that an A5 from 81 is actually considered a new wave A3+ now?
What is the new wave rating of Jolly Rodger?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Jolly Roger held its A5 grade through the ratings "waves."
No trickery or bullshit on the JR first ascent unlike WOS.
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raymond phule
climber
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So the problem with Marks and Rickards FA is that it was only an A3+ according to modern standards?
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raymond phule
climber
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No trickery or bullshit on the JR first ascent unlike WOS.
What trickery and bullsh#t? I just don't know what you really complain about even though I have read many of yours and your wife's posts.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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If you are actually interested go back to the beginning and follow this whole story. Everything becomes very clear if you read what these guys have said.
I stand behind every statement that I have made about these guys. They are the source of all their own problems in this controversy. They want admiration and respect but haven't earned it and certainly don't give it out to any other wall climbers.
If you don't buy the persecution angle then they are holding an empty bag.
The fact that Richard and Mark won't even show up here at the end speaks volumes about their integrity as climbers. Laughing stock from start to finish.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Hmm. That's all right, Steve. It's feeling a bit Humphrey Bogart in here, and I think you've gone full Queeg.
On the other hand, how can I refuse such a polite request...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Well, so much for a "definitive" account from R&I. They f*#ked it up just like all the other "it ain't been repeated" ballcuppers f*#ked it up. To wit, from the topo page at R&I:
while experienced wall climbers who attempted it were all thwarted, until now.
With 3-4 parties having climbed through the cruxes on the route (Slater, Poedke, Thaw el al) and only bailed due to time or water issues, the claim that they were "thwarted" presumably by the difficulty, is a joke. Why nobody can get this simple aspect of the history correct is baffling...makes for a better story I suppose if you can hookwink the masses into thinking it was just so technically difficult that nodoby had the skills to repeat it.
Sadly, the climbing rags remain unworthy for use as toilet paper, much less as a historical record of the sport.
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Tarz
Mountain climber
Calli
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MTucker says SH_ _ that just cries out "Bonehead". KaitB was an integral part of the TEAM that climbed WOS. Ammon respects her skills enough to trust her with his life up there. How many times did Ammon fall??? 15-20 times with a major whipper that dislocated his shoulder. Making comments downplaying her role like MTucker is doing is nothing but ignorance. BUZZ OFF! Gabe....right on.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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MTroll™ is a TOOL and a FOOL...
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WBraun
climber
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I looked at the original Topo and then Ammons Topo.
It's still a forced route.
Lots of bolts interceded by some hook moves and copperheads all in only 9 pitches.
150 holes in 9 pitches and then another ladder of holes to the Horse Chute.
The copperheading reinforces the forcing.
Whatever.
You guys should give it up on all the character assignations about MTucker Steve G and Mimi and concentrate instead on the metrics of this line itself instead.
That will actually get you somewhere.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nicely said Werner.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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What Werner said, exactly but NOT what J-Do said (g).
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Once thing is for sure:
Whole lotta hate
...seems like a waste of time and energy.
You will never get this time back
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raymond phule
climber
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The fact that Richard and Mark won't even show up here at the end speaks volumes about their integrity as climbers. Laughing stock from start to finish.
So what if they show up here in a couple of hours or days? How long have it been since the article have been available? A day?
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Tarz
Mountain climber
Calli
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I agree, this forum should not be used for bashing one way or the other, but Mtucker has a history and I'll stick by my comments. Especially the ignorance part! LOL
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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lotta human behavior here...
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