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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Not true. Maybe not risk their lives, but they would climb.....because it's there......because it's awe inspiring and it's beautiful.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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This thread needs more photos.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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This thread needs more photos.
Yeah, even if we have to rap down to get them!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Heck we hear about every ten minutes taken off the Nose, the first female ascent of this, the fastest ascent of XYZ.
What if Salamizer did not say anything about his attempt when he climbed half of it? No one would know. He climbs more than 99% of people here, is a member here, but posts TRs only once in a blue moon. Most likely because he is not a pro athlete and does not need to be a "first gemale to do X" or "first male with asthma to do X" to keep his sponsors happy. The only reason I post about some of the things I do here is because I started doing that since I started climbing. Reports of other people inspired me to get out and do some of the things that seem interesting, so I wanted to do my share of 'giving back' in a way. But many people don't post. But I guess I do agree with you survival, if this thing had a complete second ascent it would probably be known.
Cultureshock!!! Get stronger! I will go belay you!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Yeah, even if we have to rap down to get them!
For the win!
V, get stronger! I will belay and jug!
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MisterE
climber
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Yeah, even if we have to rap down to get them!
You just know Clint has tons of 'em, but all we get to see are new anchors, NTTAWWT...
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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Where's the topo for this thing? any body got one?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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There's a topo on this thread somewhere.
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bob
climber
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Who needs a topo? It's a line!!!! At least until it turns into a face climb, but it sounds like follow the bolts once that happens.
Bob J.
EDIT: ^^^^ Wow this came from me. Its sad to me when someone asks a serious question and that's what I come up with. Sad. Im better than that.
So, with all due respect, I give you my apologies Redbud. No excuse.
Bob Jensen
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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just want to know where the 5.13 climbing is at, is it slab or cracks? topo would help with that right?
unknown
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Survival, Not quite true, your post January 9 just above. The route is not entirely free. Up in the arch and just afterward, it really blanks out and goes A0 in spots on two pitches there.
See topo detail here, from Ken Y's post
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jan 10, 2014 - 12:58am PT
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Rudbud and others, If you go upthread, you will find a full topo.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 01:27am PT
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klaus, who cares if you chip holds or not? When you nail the f*#k out of a seam or some expanding flake that is likely to fall off with more nailing, you also are breaking rock. Cheeer up! Nail cracks, chip holds, have a blast out there!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 01:59am PT
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Chipping and saying it was like that all along to say you free climbed it is a lie.
Agreed. Do you think he chipped something up there? It wasn't me who was climbing it, so I have no idea what was done, but it seems like majority of the route is a pretty cool free climb with a bolt short bolt ladder. And yes, not a full free climb if bolt ladder was not freed.
Why so grumpy? You have a baby coming! Cheer up! Do some chiseling, do some chipping. Take a belay test, join a climbing gym! :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 10, 2014 - 03:03am PT
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Vitaliy,
I think Klaus is trying to draw a line in the sand that says don't let hype about your route be published as if it were a free climb, because putting drill to stone has the same kind of impact as a sculpted hold. It has precedent setting value. Compound this with the idea that maybe Half Dome was the last formation to establish long hard routes ground up. Well it's like giving up the ghost.
So if the spirit of style is dead, why not change all styles at all grades.
Would Yosemite be the same?
Just some thoughts.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 10, 2014 - 06:01am PT
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Klaus seems a bit uptight and yes nailing is chipping and the Nose as well as a whole bucket full of other classics have their share of bolt ladders. Who is to say that this can not be free climbed as is without chipping? Has anyone even tried to climb it or do you guys just whine and cry about a rt you will never even get on?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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Better yet, go get on one of his "lines" next time you're in the Ditch and then come back here and post up. BADASS BOLD MOFO
When I get a little suicidal, maybe. But then I think I will be into putting up own dangerous routes, not repeating other people's.
I think there is a difference between badass and lucky that some giant flake he decided to nail didn't blow and cut his rope. I do not see it as badass, the chief.
I think Klaus is trying to draw a line in the sand that says don't let hype about your route be published as if it were a free climb, because putting drill to stone has the same kind of impact as a sculpted hold.
Klaus never put a bolt in? What about all the bolt ladders on all the aid climbs in Yosemite? Putting drill and hammer to the stone and f*#king up stone is what aid climbers been doing for years, and do so now. Ground up or not, you are still f*#king up stone by bashing the sh#t out of it. I do understand the difference between Southern Belle and this route though. Difference in the style of ascent is obvious. But I will abstain from talking sh#t about this route because First Ascentionist chose the style of his choice, and I personally have not put up ANY routes in the valley to critique his choice. Klaus and Coz are of course qualified to do so and have their own opinion...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 10, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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this is not a free climb.
Yes, it's a 60 foot aid route with 2,500 feet of annoying free climbing on it. Sounds pretty damn much like a free route to me. Sheesh....
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!