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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Apr 29, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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Andy! Still stuck in the gym? It's dry man!!
Tunnel Rock today !
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MH2
climber
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Apr 30, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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Orange Route would not let me go, Mike. Now the waters have closed over it and I'll be on the granite today. May be 5.9 ready.
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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Apr 30, 2014 - 09:50pm PT
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Today I was such a heroic VB- hero Adonis that I had to de-shirt, just for myself, you know. Forgot the beanie though, and the bevy of Boulder b.....eauties, and the bong.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Had to post up so folks would know I'm not just a polititard thread whore.
So yesterday I finished up a particularly satisfying project and the client asks
"Hey do you want to go pull on some plastic?". "Sho Nuff" I replied.
So we went to the BRC to pull down.
Now for many of you that's no big deal. It seems pretty common for climbers these days to spend more time climbing in a gym in a month than I have in my life. I'd bet I have climbed indoors less than two dozen times, including this stellar example of my manly manliness in action a couple of years ago.
Any way. I had a good time except that being red/green colorblind makes me spend most of my time deciphering a Jackson Pollock painting. Isn't that discrimination of the chromatically challenged? That gym stuff iz harrrrd. In the Black Canyon all I had to deal with was Schist black and Pegmatite white. Easy peezy. Of course at the gym the holds don't fall on your head.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yow, TBC, that route a few back looks cool!
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Both cracks at the local gym Rocksport in Reno.
If I hit the right leaning, slightly overhung crack first thing, I find I can make the top. If I wait 'til later, I get pumped out up just past where the angle changes and it widens.
The other straight crack is just for running laps now, though initially it was hard. I guess we transpose with time.
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mcd
Trad climber
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Yeah, that easy crack is good fun. I need to work on switching stance, leading left hand up hnstead of right. Problem is never enough time. Just a fluke i happened to be there. 1st time in months.
Surprised gyms dont have more cracks. Try Granite Arch in Sacto if you ever down there, they have quite a few cracks to choose from.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Climbed at our very quiet personal crag today. The 3rd climb of the day was a bit exciteing!
A bolt saved my life today. An obscure route that I put up 3 years ago. This was maybe the 4th or 5th ascent? I know I never climbed it last year and not sure if anyone else did? 5.8 and a mix of gear and bolts. It traverses some, goes arround a few corners and then up an arette. I was out of sight from my belayer had just made a clip but was off to the side of the bolt with aparently some decent slack in the system due to rope drag and the natural slack that occurs on traverses. A hold that looked and felt really good broke while I was laying back on it. A solid 20 footer over a roof that almost smacked me in the face. I let out a pretty good scream. It was scary because the fall was so sudden, rock was flying through the air and I went much farther than I expected. We renamed the climb from, You can't Always get What You Want to, Screamer. there is no natural gear anywhere near there that would keep you off the deck.
This was a good reminder that on long wandering pitches with a lot of rope out, a fall close to your gear will usually be much,much longer than you might think. A fall from above your gear may end up being absolutly huge!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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mdc; cool photo.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Took the Soloist on a trip up Ginger Bread at Phantom Spires today:
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Is that the labyrinth?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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^
Good one Hankster.
We had Planet of the 8s, Leavenworth WA all to ourselves but for White-Thoated Swifts and Prairie Falcons. Sorry about the slightly blurry one handed photo.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Color Me Gone at Dinosaur Rock yesterday.
I led it, my sometimes-partner up from sacto followed and cleaned 2/3, but 5.9 is just plain above him. Doubt he will ever lead, but doesn't mind belaying for me. Still, somewhere about halfway I got spooked, pumped, and hung off a cam for a while til the elvis leg subsided, then went on up. Don't have any pics of me on lead, but here he is effectively on TR cleaning.
This after a trip down to Desert Creek, where the abundant volcanic choss had every appearance of being entirely portable, but the fishing was fun.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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nice johnny. got to get yer books back to you. i'm down to make a climb of it.
last climb was saturday at bayview cliffs
the crux seems a bit harder than 5.6
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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May 11, 2014 - 02:25am PT
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Looks like your doing good gumby.
Today I made it out with Rick and Bob. Dudes, that was a nice day! The dome of rock was obliging to us, the Nevada weather living up to its rep of changing every five minutes. Left the truck at 48deg, under partly grey skies and some breezy conditions. Got our climb on in two pitches, during which the wind tried to blow us off the rock, alternating between sun, clouds, wind, and the threat of rain and snow, which we could see in the valley and at the top of the canyon. HUGE dust storms to our east on the way home, but man, it was worth it.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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May 11, 2014 - 12:13pm PT
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Had a nice day out yesterday with good people Dwain, Daphne and Michael in Apple Valley, but the wind was strong and gusty. We got worn out from the wind rather than the climbing.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 11, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Not sure this is really what this thread is about, but as a part of my ongoing climbing education (I'm 57 and need to keep my mind active), my "mentor" started teaching me aid techniques. We started at "the Pirate" (C2) on Suicide on Saturday. I got to jumar up and clean/inspect all the placements and figure out how to traverse to the anchor while still removing all the pro. Fun times!
Since its rated 5.12c/d free, I wasn't sure I was expecting to see as much chalk in the little pods as I did. And all the way up! More than one person has been free climbing up that thing this season already. Impressive as some of the pods would not even fit my pinkey finger in them.
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