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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 04:51am PT
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GDavis - Aye. For some reason I can't post ponies from this computer. Fortunately, that's what edit buttons are for...
Jim - You make some good points here. Seems to gel with my understanding of climbing culture then and how it has changed in the context of the present day. My understanding is that good climbing style at that point in time involved preserving the natural rock as much as you could, and dealing with the situation that the rock itself presented to you to the greatest degree possible.
It's also my understanding that while Yosemite was a mecca for climbers during that time, the focus of climbing has since moved out of the Valley, and isn't nearly so concentrated on aid climbing.
I see comments repeatedly stating some variant of "Who cares it's just an El Cap aid climb from 3 decades ago." And when you get to the end of the day, for most people that's all it was.
For Richard and Mark, however, it was one of the most defining events of their lives. It nearly killed them (and they were nearly killed by their fellow climbers while they were on it), but they saw it through despite all the odds against them, and at the end of the day they came away satisfied with what they did and how they did it. For whatever else may be said, that's a story I can get behind. I hope you can understand where I'm coming from on this.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 13, 2011 - 06:21am PT
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Mimi, I ain't no f*#kin pilgrim. I also have not and can not climb WOS but I will not seriously bash a route that I have not climbed and NEVER condone clichy bullying. For you to repetedly post that the shitters were heros is sick.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 09:50am PT
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Trad, you can't reason with a Mimi meme.
But if you feel you must try, here, take the proper precautions...
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 10:06am PT
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Anyway, Meme.
Now that I have definitively answered every question you had about Wings of Steel, I think it's only fair you answer my question, hm?
What is the air speed velocity of an unladen swallow?
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Sep 13, 2011 - 10:54am PT
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African of European?
sorry i had too...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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If we were talking swifts, the question would be: Before or after they too crapped on Richard and Mark...Poo On You III...sort of. LOL
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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So is your spelling...and pinkness
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Steve,
Like I always say,
What say you, Gunsmoke?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Sep 13, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
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LOL
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 14, 2011 - 12:18am PT
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Dweebers, not so fast. You never fully answered the topo question. As Ms. Faust wasn't on the FA, she shirley didn't devine the topo and gear list all by her lonesome. Please divulge.
Sorry to ruffle your feathers, tradman. Do you believe in the value of being honest and forthright about your climbs and climbing style?
Hey Big Mike from BC, you obviously don't read for comprehension very well either. Which pressing question goes unanswered? You must be referring to something specific?
The timeline is not entirely my interpretation, it's all straight from the Book. I totally held back but I'm working on the whining version now. It will cover Bwana's ankle injury and how many times he turned it on the 'talus slope' (trail to the base), his obsession with rainfly condensation, and Skid's constant battle over quitting. The countless insulting jabs taken by Bwana toward the valiant and trusting Skid provide no end of humor.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 14, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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I'm sorry Mimi, you seem to be under the impression that this thread is still about the climb.
But as it really hasn't been for a very long time, and given that just about everyone but you is sick of going around in circles and has moved on, this thread is no longer Wings of Steel.
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 14, 2011 - 12:46am PT
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Dweeb, sadly, it has always been about the climb and the way your pals did it. We can see that this is very painful for you. They made choices, now they have to live with them. This has only gone in circles because your pals won't be honest about what they did. Very simple stuff.
As one of our esteemed STers has pointed out: about 175 holes could easily allow you to drill your way up the entire 1200 foot slab. Actually, I reckon a 6' person could easily drill a ladder with about 155 holes up 1200 feet.
This pretty much says it all. The books states 124 for the non-anchor hole count. Pretty darned close.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 14, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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Memerson J. Grosslady -
You know, it's fine. I understand that you are still trying to earn your Cutie Mark for rock climbing ethic superjudge. Keep up the good work! You'll get it someday!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 14, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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Dude,
Ya gotta knock it off with the damn purple horses. It's enough to make a guy puke.
I'm going climbing on El Cap now. Something hard, something scary, we shall see....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 14, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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Yeah, pink and purple ponies have that effect. Not quite suicide-inducing, but not far from it.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Sep 14, 2011 - 01:44am PT
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notFERnothin, but when a known pedoPH tells ya that yer way too into the cutesie little kid pony sh#t, that might juss maybe tell ya sumthin!
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Sep 14, 2011 - 10:49am PT
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Yeah, lay off the damn ponies and other cute stuff ! Enough is way more than enough already !
And Mimi thanks for beginning to sound like an adult. It will get easier with practice.
I'm just curious, from a historical perspective, about what actually happened in the Valley during the FA, both on the wall and on the ground.
I was climbing there before and after the FA of Wings of Steel, but only heard vague rumors about the route and controversy.
The current thread on the life and death of Walter Bonatti shows that controversy and attendant character defamation in climbing is nothing new.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 10:58am PT
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Richard and Mark have virtually nothing in common with Bonatti. They climb and it stops there.
Bwana and Skid were clearly unprepared and far from competent while mired down in a half ton of crap to confirm that status. Once they finally left the ground and spent the next nine days camped out at the top of the second pitch the way backwards became clear. No need for further abuse by the community until they began to seek fame and acclaim with slideshows books and articles.
The Wannabees started out as a joke among serious wall climbers and hey are going to finish out as such despite every effort, machination and device that Bwana has mustered up.
There will be no redemption here...
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