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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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NutAgain, I'm in the same boat. For the rest of you, getting to climb so much you're let down by highly regarded routes is a pretty good problem to have!
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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In my opinion, the Double Cross bolts are unnecessary, but they come handy when you are working the route on lead. I've skipped the bolts when I went for the red point
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Are there really bolts on double cross? I've done it twice in the last 3 years or so and there were none either time. Did I just get lucky? Pretty sure I'm getting trolled...
You must have been off route. Were you maybe on Double Start?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aren't all climbs over-rated if you've sent them?
Only after you've done them more than once. I think rgold captures my feelings on this quite well. I learned to climb at Little Table Mountain, a choss pile of volcanic conglomerate somewhat more shaky than Pinnacles brecchia. Each time I went there, I wanted to climb more. If I went back now (unlikely, since the owner has severely restricted access), I'd probably ask "Why have I bothered?"
Otherwise, about the only issue of overrating involves the length of the queue at the base compared with the enjoyment of the climbing. I could argue that a fun route like the Regular Route on Fairview isn't worth it because the last time I was there, I had to wait for four parties ahead of us, but I don't think I would have felt that way the first time I did it.
Now that I'm old and have no reason left for living, I care more about isolation than about difficulty, rock quality or being a route gourmet. After 49 years of climbing, enjoyment is enough to satisfy me.
John
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Here's your chance to sound off. I don't mean the worst climbs, I'm talking about climbs whose reputation far exceeds what you get.
Correct answer is J-Crack.
"This is probably the most traveled route at Lumpy Ridge and one of the best finger cracks anywhere."
Loose Ends or Visual Aids right next door are better.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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^DMT
What is/was Underground City? Limestone quarry in the Gold Country? e.g Cave City?
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SusanA
Sport climber
Bay Area
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Aug 22, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
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lol, I didn't lead it but I did follow it. My boyfriend led it and he told me about the myth of the bolts so I just went with it as a joke. My tape gloves did fall off though! Joshua Tree is so pretty but I have to get used to the climbing for sure.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:03pm PT
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Walk on the Wild Side. No offense to the FA, whom I know. Times were different then. But today, folks lining up for it?
The Vampire. So sure it's an icon. But Insomnia beats the hell outta the first pitch (which even has a sneaky way on halfway up). Razor's edge stomps the second pitch. Since pretty much any stout face pitch there is better than the third pitch I'll throw down Magical Mystery Tour. From there up its scrambling.
Okay, now I'm running for cover...
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 22, 2016 - 11:30pm PT
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Walk on the Wild Side
Hey atleast it's 2 pitches @5.7. That's huge in josh. I would'a said Loose Lady, JUNK!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 23, 2016 - 01:04am PT
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I always enjoyed walk on the wild side and feel the rating is pretty much on target. There is a fair amount of .6 and .7, but quite a bit of .8. BITD it was pretty run out but the harder parts were pretty well protected.. Don't know if it has been retro bolted.
Back then with a 120 cord it was 3 pitches.
Nice views.
edit: is it now rated 5.7?
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