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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 24, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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FRONT PORCH *BUMP*
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 24, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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Bumpity bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 24, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Nice shot Paul!
Scott Baxter's friend Philipo in Paul's shot above lost all of both hands but a wrist on one to a Civil War re-enactment accident. Despite the handicap he was able to manage many 5.7 routes and enjoyed himself fully battling away! Great guy!
It was inspiring to watch him work a set of moves all his own on every route with a wrist and a hook.
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10b4me
Ice climber
the sads
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Jan 24, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 25, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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To round off Steve's story of Phil's accident: it happened as he was tamping down a canon. (Steve, the ole VW bus came from Phil.)
Some of the old gang:
We can thank Larry Coats for most (all?) of the recent images I've posted. If he didn't shoot it, he at least scanned them in.
(yeah, some are lousy and dark, but some might say that's a reflection of the soul...)
Larry on Witblitz
Jim Haisley on Witblitz
et moi on Witblitz
et moi, top of first pitch, FA of the Dong.
Jim Haisley on the first ascent of Bleak Streak
(what's wrong with this picture ?)
Wrong ? I'm lying like a rug,
FA was Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom and Dave Kolpin, 1971,5.8
From the Lovejoy Guide:
This is a classic in thin face climbing which ascends the seemingly flawless wall called "The Face."
A face climbing specialist with stiff shoes will find this climb a breeze, but the man not accustomed to this sort of climbing may get caught in a Hurricane.
Care should be used in checking the security of the Holds.
PARAPHERNALIA: A small selection of small pitons and nuts is adequate to protect the final pitch and belay points on this route.
Please do not add or chop bolts.
Many a climber has been caught in a hurricane trying to lead GM 5.8s and 5.9s. This one is probably really only 5.8 ? Maybe 5.9 ?
But there did used to be that 20 ft grounder into a flake that the FA ran out and then stopped and drilled.
Last time I did this, I recall actually getting some possibly decent pro (slider, ball nut and/or TCU ?)
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 25, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
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Some of that old gang in their dotage:
L/R
Tim Coats, Mimi deGravelle, Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, John Steiger, Larry Coats
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 25, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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I wonder if anyone ever repeated Depthcharge 5.10+ on Submarine Rock down in Sedona?
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 28, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
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FYI- Granite Mountain closing soon!
Falcon closures go into effect monday Feb. 2nd.
This is the last weekend to climb at The Mountain 'til July.
Gotta go!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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Hey Jefe...or anyone? Ever do the Guillotine Flake route way over on the right end? If so, what are the chimneys like? Squeeze, or foot and back? or mixed?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Giucco Piano is fun over there too. Paul, Randy Mettler and I came very close to getting fried by lightening on top of that one!
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bob
climber
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Jan 28, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Yes, I've done that route. I had a chalk bag and my clothes and nothing else and it was just chimney as I recall. I went out on some crack at the end that was way harder than the rest, but still moderate. Fun.
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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Thanks Bob... just wondering. Last bit of unfinished business for me up there that's easier than 5.10.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
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Mt. Elden needs some love:
--photos by Colin Cox, etc off Mountain Project
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Here's some... think people generally go other places than the Deception cracks, but I always liked 'em...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Anybody have pictures of Twilight Zone at Elden?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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That's a great line!
This one is from John Burcham of Chris Tatum on John's Jugs, and the cover page for West Elden in the new guide:
Looks like some rough rings, there
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 29, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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West Elden! Haven't thought of that place for a long time. One of my first leads as as an NAU freshman was Right Deception.
Any pics of the other side of Mt. Elden- Elysian Buttress?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 29, 2009 - 01:45am PT
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Elden, what a fun place. I always really liked the Deception Cracks.
Steve, I have some slides somewhere of 2nd ascent of The Zone. I'll have to dig them up. Seems like I saw them just recently....
One of those photos was of the Eleysian buttress, wasn't it ?
John's Jugs is wicked hard and even more painful.
We use to call that Tenure crack (it was next to Retirement crack), except we could never get up it. Something about those wires just didn't inspire much trust. I think the FA was via TR and then later led? It's an impressive thing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I thought that you had a camera that day on the Zone! Is that thing still 5.11?
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