The Chick History Thread

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ron gomez

Trad climber

fallbrook,ca

Apr 13, 2011 - 01:33pm PT

And she's a BABE to boot! Thanks for the photo, hope you post up more of them!
Peace

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Apr 13, 2011 - 06:00pm PT

Hi Rodger,

I am sorry to hear about Anne. I wish the best for both of you.

Roger

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2011 - 07:06pm PT

Brokendownclimber, thank you so much for sharing and honoring your wife. Reading backwards, I was hugely impressed by her skills and then saddened to read of her illness. What a rotten affliction for someone who was so physical.

The phenomena underlying Huntington's Disease was a big part of my research. If you ever want an opinion or explanation for a paper or study or something that the doc said, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'm not an M.D., but I'm happy to help if I can.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Apr 14, 2011 - 03:56am PT

Back to a chick!

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

May 27, 2011 - 06:57pm PT

Here's a picture of Anne in her prime!
It's a very reachy move to get up over this little overhang on tiny crystals for holds.

looking sketchy there...

Social climber

Latitute 33

May 27, 2011 - 07:21pm PT

That Waltzing Worm is no give-away and a proud send. Wishing Anne and you the best through this difficult time.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

May 27, 2011 - 07:31pm PT

Another confession here--going back to the original post from Jan: it was my heavy falling a$$ that she caught on the right side of Koko Ledge (A3 at the time)which broke her wrist. We were helped out by some of our Colorado compadres--Tom Fender and Roger Dalke--who were at trhe base watching us climb, who helped us get off the route and Jan over to the clinic. I went back a few days later and completed the route with Peter Williamson (RIP, drowned in Bridalveil Creek 1984).

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

May 27, 2011 - 07:40pm PT

Ron is that the Kern River limestone, Holey Power or something?

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

May 27, 2011 - 08:06pm PT

these gals carried me on this wall route i had started. was shut down on the solo attempt with bad weather , good weather came and we all went up and sent! (f.a. early 90's) fifi buttress
pretty wild doing a f.a. wall route with three awesome gals!

mctwisted

Social climber

superslacker city

May 27, 2011 - 08:17pm PT

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

May 28, 2011 - 10:02am PT

A "bump" for all the real Babes of Super Topo!

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

May 28, 2011 - 02:15pm PT

ArmandoWyo

climber

Wyoming

May 28, 2011 - 05:15pm PT

Any conversation of women rock climbers should go back at least to the 1930s when modern rock climbing techniques with ropes for belay and pitons for anchors, pro, and aid were introduced and used for first ascent in Yosemite and the High Sierra.
Dick Leonard, one of the leaders, speaking of the women climbers of the era, said that there were “some very fine ones.” He went on to name a few:
“Marjory Farquhar, a great photographer, took some pictures on the Higher Cathedral Spire . . . . She made the second ascent of the Higher Cathedral Spire. Also there was Olive Dyer another fine young climber . . . also made the third ascent of the Cathedral Spires. And my sweet wife [Dorothy Leonard] . . . she made the first ascent of the Bridelveil Falls. We went over some overhangs that were so difficult that 5 young teams of male chauvinist piggies in their teenages, 18-20 years old, couldn’t climb it. They were horrified, that here a women could climb something on a first ascent that they couldn’t follow.”
In the 1980s, Eric Brand and I raised some money to take video and oral histories of the leading climbers of that time. We filmed the histories of Marjory Farquhar, Dick Leonard, David Brower, Glen Dawson, Jules Eichorn, and some others. Although the video histories were completed and are available, we never finished our own film of these amazing pioneers. Videos of their climbs and histories have been used by others, for example in Kristi Denton Cohen’s Vertical Frontier and Mike Carville’s film.
That’s just a little background for this statement: Marjorie's interview was by far the most enjoyable. She told us of the effort and guile, she and the other women had to use to make these climbs. Margory was still complaining about being excluded from the first major ascent, Higher Cathedral Spires, and instead was relegated to film maker, something the rest of us now appreciate, since she left us such a great record of the climb. Even though they were climbing with the men, these women had to argue and demand to climb.
I don’t have before me the transcript of her interview. Regret that in storage, but perhaps I can dig it out and put some of these stories into her own words.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2011 - 05:44pm PT

Is the inteview w/ Marjory Farquar that you're talking about the Sierra Club oral histories project, or is it another? I'd be very interested to see your video. I've been researching stories of women climbing before WWII. There were tons, many leading and establishing FAs too. After the war, they were sort of forgotten by most.

ArmandoWyo

climber

Wyoming

May 28, 2011 - 06:24pm PT

Melissa,
No, it's not the Sierra Club project. Just one that Eric and I did. I would glad to help you anyway I can. Please write to me directly at armandowyoming@gmail.com.
armando