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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Nov 15, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
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Largo wrote: "...having projected the route for nearly a month now"
while any other time, i'd consider what follows pedantic... given the ridiculousness of what he's accomplishing i think it's worth noting the following [which is due to a too tight toque, from viewing the sources to pavel blazek's instagram posts, and due to googling that utc is 8 hr later than pst]...
while i might be +/- 1 day, [at most +/- 2], as best as i can tell there were:
23 days from when ondra first got on the dawn wall to when he started resting up [on nov 10th] for the push that he just started [on nov 14th]
15 days during which ondra actually worked the climbing on the dawn wall and wasn't either resting, sitting out storms or attempting to onsite the nose...
ie. while i'm sure the original quote above wasn't an intentional understatement by a competing sponsor's spokesperson [ ;) ], and i'm sure it was intended genuinely, saying that ondra projected the route for nearly a month, when that near month seems to have consisted of 15 days of actual climbing over the course of 23 days [during which he also attempted an onsite of the nose in a day with his old man] doesn't quite capture the ridiculousness of what ondra is doing here.
oh and during that time he also learned how to jumar properly, his partner did his first multi-pitch climb and they set up and stocked a base camp...
jayzeus.
this is up there with the cubs winning the world series and trump winning the election on the here's-what-basically-no-one-expected-a-year-ago scale... [except not even supertopo's prophet in chief r. walling predicted this one a few months out...]
we are witnessing the rock star, whose poster other rock stars put over their bed, not just live up to the hype... but absolutely fUcking crush it.
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 15, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
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+1 for nah000's perspective on pretty much all things.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Nov 16, 2016 - 12:48am PT
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^^^^
thanks and the same right back at ya D... has been enjoyable to see you occasionally moseying around these parts again...
another day, more battles, and another giant step upward
four more pitches, including two more 14s go down on the second day of the push...
this means in two days he's redpointed 7 of the 12 5.13s and 3 of the 7 5.14s on the climb as a whole... [while also enjoying 3 5.12 "moderates"...]
he looks to now be below the three pitch crux of the biscuit... [as some call it. :) ]
edit: to correct that ondra climbed the 13b pitch as well on the second day, which wasn't apparent when i first posted.
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HMS
Trad climber
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:17am PT
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Ondra climbed four more pitches (10, 11, 12, 13).
"Tired but relieved face! Made it up to the start of pitch 14! As @alexhonnold brought some dark chocolate for @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson on their push and it seemed it helped them, Heinz did the same today. But he told me that I must deserve it first:-) And send pitch 10. I did in rather dramatic way on my 2nd go. Then, I almost finished the chocolate while having a few heartbreaking goes on the pitch 12 to calm my nerves. Luckily it all worked out and we are getting deserved sleep. More detailed info on @blackdiamond and @mytendon coming soon."
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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Yes Ondra is doing it pretty fast so far, but he is also the only one climbing and I'm sure it would be taking longer if he had a partner who was switching leads and trying to free everything as well. Tommy would have been done much sooner if he had been the only free climber. Ondra has had a few struggles just getting some pitches before the sun hit or after 3 or 4 tries. It's nice to see the pictures of him now, he looks like a real wall climber, all dirty and tired. It will be interesting to see what happens tomorrow on the crux's after the rest day. Hope he gets them...but not too easily =) Maybe Adam will try for it in a day later this same trip after on-sighting the salathe.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:28am PT
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The full length film about TC's and KJ's ascent of the Dawn Wall is a huge undertaking featuring multi-level difficulties and plagued by self-doubt. This daunting undertaking might take as long as 7 years to complete. The final stages of this heroic endeavor (footage formatting and soundtrack selection by the film makers) will be broadcasted live on national TV.
So they are waiting until no one cares anymore?
I think people will still care. I will. After all TC and KJ were first. Still, there is some risk that a really quick (as opposed to 7-year) ascent by Ondra will diminish the accomplishment in the minds of some people. And that's a shame because a second ascent is always much easier than the first--in the respect that there is no doubt anymore about the route being possible. My $0.02
Curt
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:52am PT
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Yes, the second ascent is always easier....beta is established. Ondra is generally considered to be the best sport climber in the world. He is not exactly hiking the route. I think his ascent, if he makes it, will confirm rather than diminish the quality and the difficulty of the climb.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 10:07am PT
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This is so incredible to me. Blows me away. But after that practice run on the Generator we all saw I should have known it was basically in the bag.
Besides his strength and talent, the fact that he isn't having the thing filmed also speeds things up I bet.
We bumped into him and his partner up at Glacier Point and they said they're planning on leaving the Valley in late November. Clock is ticking esp since he wants a day on the Salathé.
Side note, he gave my daughter a fist bump. Repeat, Adam gave my daughter a fist bump omg swoon.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 16, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Bruce .... he did have guys shooting video.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Nov 16, 2016 - 10:28am PT
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We bumped into him and his partner up at Glacier Point
So he decided to make a run up Hall of Mirrors on his rest day?
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 11:46am PT
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The Euros are really dominating El Cap this fall.
Dihedral Wall got its second repeat and now there's a third repeat of Free Zodiac.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 16, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Second repeat? Or second ascent?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 16, 2016 - 12:17pm PT
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By my grammar, Pete.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 16, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
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From above:
Second day, I was incredibly lucky to get overcast day, so I could make a lot of work.
At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak in pitch 14 (5.14d), then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pith 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux in pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a) which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang in toprope. To finish the day, I just re-ckecked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c).
This is in such a different stratosphere from what my mind can comprehend as a day of rock climbing.
Such a beautiful route, to think of coming and doing it on an autumn vacation. How lucky can you be to get up there and pull through those moves on that wall.
Much like the Nose, subsequent ascents of this route can only be gauged on the style in which they're done. Do they improve upon the existing high-bar? Is it going to be a one person effort, or will it be a climbing-team goal?
A beautiful second ascent looks imminent at this point. The bar will be set.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
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Second repeat? Or second ascent?
Oops, that should have been ascent for both cases.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
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For those who think that Ondra "hike" Down Wall here is his notes about yesterday hard day:
Update: Ondra Sends Pitches 10, 11, 12 and 13
“It should have been a rather easy day with only four pitches to do, but it turned out to be the opposite. We started in late afternoon, when the wall was getting into the shade. I must admit that I felt the pressure. I hate pitch 10 (5.14a, but I would almost say 5.14b). It is all laybacking—smearing your feet against nothing (sometimes wet nothing)—and the harder you try, the harder it gets. I knew it would be good to send the pitch first go, which almost worked out. I had my face at the belay, but I wanted to move my foot more right and stand up onto the no-hands rest. And somehow—I still do not know how it happened—I was in the air. Devastating. The pitch always gets progressively more wet. And it did. The middle section turned much harder due to wet footholds (some holds are perma-wet on this pitch). I was nervous as hell, climbed quite poorly, but my determination was stronger and I somehow made it up to the belay! I was very relieved!
“I was pretty sure I could finish the schedule of the day. The next pitch is a hard stemming corner at 5.13c, but fortunately, no mistakes on this pitch. Pitch 12 is the Molar Traverse at 5.14b. It is one of the hardest pitches on the whole route (French 8c), but I never found this pitch very hard. Mainly because the crux is just a powerful boulder problem, which fit my style, and the rest of the pitch is technical, though not too bad. But it turned really epic. On my first go I fell off two meters from the anchor, because a little crystal broke. The next go, I slipped on the same move even though I was relaxed, very careful and focused. On my third go, I fell on the lower boulder problem. It was obvious that I had to send the pitch next go, otherwise I would be stuck! I entered the zone, focused, and despite the fatigue I fired it off.
“Pitch 13 (5.13b) was quite OK—one of the few pitches that doesn’t feel sandbagged:-D
“All in all, it was pretty good training! Climbing basically five times 5.14b = 8c (if you count pitch ten as 5.14b). Not a bad day at the crag. Hopefully I will make use of this training Thursday on the crux pitches, after taking a rest-day on Wednesday.”
–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, November 16, 2016.
https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Nov 16, 2016 - 05:29pm PT
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^^^^
This goes with the BD / FB page!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
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5.14b laybacking doesn't even make sense.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
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Pretty brutal to have your face at the anchors and pop off because of holding out for good style to finish it. Having to climb another pitch of 5.14b raises the stakes a bit. I don't have too many of those in me on a good day.
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