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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Where was the Woot Boi when I was tying shoelaces together to rap from?
He's just the Valley's version of The Donald - proud of his delusional state
and his mangina.
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RyanD
climber
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More sports action here while out climbing.
Anders, thanks for finding a way to sound contentious even though my post said I respected your stance on fixed anchors on Penny Lane.
For the record: even though your theories on the anchor situation do not account for all the factors, I will still keep Penny lane safe for you, if you give me a friends of the chief button someday!
High Justin!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Bolts here, bolts there. See now why bouldering is so attractive? :-)
Curt
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Curt dropping wisdom bombs...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I've half a mind to set up a slide show event and invite Erik to attend He could advertise all his hard work in trade I would insist that he bolt the 'Green Box Route'
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klaus
climber
Slauson & Crenshaw
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Amazing. I actually agree with Richard 100%. I could not have said it better
"If Sloan didn't exhibit a pattern, the rap route wouldn't bother me. It's a trivial thing in the grand scheme of things, IMHO.
However, to respond to Anita with some general points, Erik is always able to "defend himself," and he has both joined and started quite a few threads for that very purpose. His "defense" always takes the same form: "'So and so' (choose your name-drop) thinks that what I'm doing is wonderful. Woot! Woot! I'm doing what everybody wants me to do. Woot! Woot! Oh, guys, I just so jazzed about the great energy here! Woot! Woot!"
His "defenses" are never substantive or actually responding to specific complaints, and he exhibits nothing but pure pride in all that he is doing "for" us.
"We" are between a rock and a hard place. Violence and threats of it are not right; so there can be no "force" in our "self-policing." And, almost universally "we" don't want sweeping retro (as opposed to 're')-bolting. "We" make this crystal clear to Sloan in these forums, which he does attend. And he basically flips his critics the finger while yelling "Woot!" "We" don't want the Park Service policing this for us. So, the "court of public opinion" is really all we have to work with.
In Sloan's alternative universe, "we" all love him and all that he does "for" us. It's become clear to me that he's not getting the message. So, it does appear that the only "solution" is to systematically remove every retro-bolt he puts in. Rinse and repeat; a battle of wills. It's disgusting and tiresome. But it's the only way to maintain freedom of expression for all involved. Couple that with contacting anybody who sponsors him in any way, and the "war of attrition" should wind him down long before it stops the removers/fillers.
I see such threads as not just "worthless hand-wringing." It's on these sorts of threads that consensus emerges, and a systematic plan of action can be formed. In the end, though, it appears to me that our only response can be to remove/fill his retro-bolts as quickly as possible and thereby force him into a "war of attrition" that he cannot win, particularly not with funding supplies drying up.
I think that retro-bolting, more than virtually any other activity, guts the very essence of what climbing is (at least, what it is to me). That's why I find Sloan's behavior (and his responses to those who try to call him on it) to be particularly odious. His Woot-based defiance is not "cool" or avant-garde, imo. It strikes me as just narcissistic defiance, it's not cool, it's not impressive, and it's not helping "climbing" be better than it is.
The rap route as an isolated incident would be pretty much nothing from my perspective. But this endless "dumbing down" that Sloan thinks is "climbing" is indeed a problem for the whole community."
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Desloanification
Love it!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Robbins was wrong and admitted it. Grow up. Climbing anchors will continue to evolve to serve the community. You old f*#ks just feel compelled to authoritarianism. Dinosaurs. And Klaus, it's not dumbing down it's getting smarter. The first round of US climbing development was done by kids in an intellectual vacuum. Look to the Alps to see what climbing will become. Thank Sloan for progress.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Pasted from the similar thread on the GSR.
Meh,
You guys are ghey. Climb it with pins and leather or you're just a poseur wannabe rock priest.
Preserving nothing. You discredit Kor more than a few bolts. Inanity. I can TR a horror fest and still honor the lunatic that soloed it. No dissonance. But the argument that the first climber owns the future and owns the rock is just wrong. Plain old wrong. Go chop the Jardine traverse if you're so confident in your opinions. Jackasses. Climbing is frivolous remember? And you're trying to make it a religion.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Climbing is frivolous remember? And you're trying to make it a religion.
Ah, okay. I'll start a crowd-funding page dedicated to the first escalator up El Cap. After all, everything should be accessible to everybody. Right?
Oh, but one won't get it done! We'll need an escalator up EVERY route on the Captain. That way EVERYBODY can say that they've "done" EVERYTHING.
Flipper should be the first in line to contribute, and he should certainly select the highest-tier contribution, say, a cool $mill! For that, he earns the exclusive right to be the first to "do" all the "retro-bolted" El Cap "routes."
Way-awesome, braj! Woot!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Circle jerks...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Ethics are sooooo....
Amazon now has Sloan's re-work of Nietzsche's classic on sale - get 'em while they're hot!
Beyond Woot and Evil
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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I think we need more "woot" jokes, Reilly.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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What does Sloan wear to the beach?
Yes, a wootini.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Lawsy, lawsy, lawsy.....
Where's that marble dude with his hand in his face?
And where was Anita yesterday when we needed her popcorn eating cat?
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Escalator?
Keep your hat on. Try too keep to the facts not your imagination. Hehe. Good luck with that.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Gotta admit, it's a bit like the new tourists who are part of an overcrowding problem, but don't want any new people to discover "their" spot.
Everyone appreciates (whether they are aware of it or not) the accessibility made possible by previous pioneers of an activity like climbing in Yosemite. But there is a trend to then be dismissive of any further accessibility. Sloan is enabling a new group of climbers, who are appreciative of his efforts. Some of these new climbers quite possibly will be the ones who pioneer and push standards in the future.
Yosemite is a dynamic training ground, it's not a snapshot frozen in time of any one particular climber's era.
All this talk of chopping is just talk, mostly from people who hope someone else will go do it. Fact is, doing the chop requires involvement, and involvement will likely lead to a change in the personal attitude otherwise isolated and cultivated by a Internet forum. Like Fish once said (to the effect), "the only thing that matters is what you've done the day before". I reckon the voices of the most active climbers are the ones to listen to. Perhaps a disclaimer prior to each post ( "warning--I have not been to Yosemite in a dog's age but still feel confident that my opinion matters" in my case) but appreciate the opinions of guys like Pete, who albeit the slowest big wall dawg I have ever heard about, gets out there regularly and knows what's really happening in the Yosemite big wall world.
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klaus
climber
Slauson & Crenshaw
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From a guy in Australia?
Chop Chop
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