It takes balls to use nuts...

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
I sailed for fifty onto a #3 and #4 in a little crease high on the Central Scrutinizer. Fall Arrestor on one, Screamer on the other, I thought I was flying for one hundred and twenty right onto the station. If the mighty nuggets hadn't stayed put, I would have easily joined the Three Figures Club. LOL
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 7, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
I was wondering where my #7 on red ran off to....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 18, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
I likely gave you the last one! You are one of the few still carrying the big nuggets in my crew.....

Just scored these factory drilled puppies on ebay for the upcoming YCA show. Missing the #8 but otherwise not a scratch!




The stamp location also moved to the top of the hex. After the extrusion shape was changed to the asymetrical configuration, that stock was used for many years until the walls were thinned considerably to get rid of the need for lightening holes.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 18, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
As I dusted off the old shot below for Largo's "fake photos" thread, I happened to notice the rack.



Vintage stuff: blue plastic Foxhead, Chouinard wall hammer, wired small Clog hex (the non-
tapered kind), first-generation symmetrical Hexentric, and a past-its-colorful-prime Fantasia
rope.


Not to mention, shredded knickers.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 18, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
A Clog wired hex in action! It's got to be a fake....
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 18, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
Tapering the small hexes was a Colorado Nut Company advance over Clog.

But, "They were smarter than we were," Bill told Paul ruefully, when they saw the first
Chouinard hexentrics.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 18, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
Nut design caught everyone off guard. YC and TF barely had the first Hexes out on the market when the asymetrical design was suggested. The extrusion dies had to be re-made from scratch and nobody was any too happy about the wasted effort and expense.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
X
Jan 18, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
some people have large nuts..others tiny..
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 18, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
Other people spill theirs on the dusty ground......
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 25, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
From Summit December 1966, the Robbins article that essentially started off the clean climbing discussion in North America. Inspired to follow in the footsteps of Brown to see where things stood at the time.






Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 3, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Old polished bump....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 7, 2009 - 04:52am PT
And who can forget Kirk's Kamms from CMI as seen in the May- June 1976 issue of Climbing.

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 11, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
Rick Ac comazzo wrote: "

"Largo-You should tell the little-known story of how you and Richard H. invented the curved stopper (the “Banana Nut”) in Richard’s basement. When Chouinard came out with curved stoppers in the early 80s, Wild Country sued Chouinard for patent infringement. Chouinard’s lawyers came out to Denver to record my deposition .The purpose was this: if Chouinard could show that the curved nut was already in use before Wild Country patented it, the patent would be defeated, what patent lawyers refer to as “prior art.”

My claim to technological fame is that Richard and I did actually invent the curved stopper, in Richard's proto-Hendrix Upland crib, retooling by hand four or five regular, straight Chouinard Stoppers with files of the flat and bastard variety. Richard and I had complained for a solid year that the straight Stoppers weren't working as advertised, usually just catching at two points, so with a lot of filing on several mid-range Stoppers - ruining two or three with worthless remodels - we came up with the design that exists today. Somebody saw what we had - the so-called "banana nut" (so-called for it's curve and the fact that we painted it bright yellow) was passed around Camp 4 for a whole season, and the rest is history.

JL
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 11, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
Another tiny nut option, the HB Anchor.
I believe these are a combo of steel/brass.
Timeframe late 80's early 90's or so.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 11, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
Those Anchors are amazing and defintely the strongest of micronuts. I only wish that they had put out an aid length stortie version. Hugh Banner made solid, reliable micro goodies.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 13, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Largo- Did you guys groove or otherwise redirect the perlon hole ends in the Stopper to allow for the material being removed?

How many Bannanas got stuck when the orangutans fell on em? I always prefered the unadulterated Stopper shape once the edges got rounded through a little use.
richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Feb 13, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
Here's a weird unmarked combination copperhead or stopper nut.
A booty find.
Edit....Thanks for the foxhead tip.I googled foxhead and found this.
http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 14, 2009 - 12:59am PT
Could be a well worn, small Foxhead if the copperhead fits all the way in.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 14, 2009 - 11:30am PT
Stephane is da man!!!
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Feb 15, 2009 - 12:53pm PT
Bonjour everybody!
I sent an email to Bill Forrest yesterday and asked him some information about this strange Forrest(?) "nest of nut". "Wait and see" as British say...
Stephane / Nuts Museum
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