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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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I'm good. I'm doing these things as a community member to try and help fellow climbers from other areas who dream of big climbs in Yosemite.
They don't need your help, pal. They are just fine without Grandma Nanook pretending to know what's best. They come to Yosemite to climb the rock, not to clip your excessively numerous retrobolts.
And, the latest manifestation of your multiple delusions sounds a lot like you fancy yourself a rockstar version of Donald Trump - "I'M GOOD".
If you're so good, why have you placed more retrobolts than all other Yosemite climbers, combined? I'm not talking about your replacing rotten belay bolts. I'm talking about your adding new, unecessary, mid-pitch chicken bolts and pussy bolts. And, your reworking entire rivet and bolt ladders to your self-declared "New Spacing Standard". And your putting additional protection bolts on existing free climbs. And your putting a bolt ladder up an existing pitch, and then calling that a "variation", as if you were pioneering a better way to experience the rock climb.
If you're so good, why do you need to retrobolt even a short section of 5.6 free climbing? Or put a bail anchor one-third of the way up a short, popular free climb at the Church Bowl? Why do you have to power drill to completely bypass an A3 crack?
OOPS! I forgot: Erik Sloan is F-N-A crazy, and/or deaf. He hears nothing but himself.
Erik Sloan is not improving the climbing area. What Erik Sloan is doing is degrading the climbing area.
Even worse, when young and inexperienced climbers, or weak and pathetic n00bs, hear about Erik going up and Nanooking a route, they'll think that retrobolting is an appropriate thing to do, and that they should be doing it, too.
This is what I see, as coming up next:
Some other moron retrobolting Snake Dike into a sport climb.
And then claiming that he is "Helping Erik Sloan get the work done".
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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Just came here to say.....
WOOT!
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 14, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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At least he didn't lay any woots on us.
Edit;
Always count on someone
As for wooty himself and all his "service to the community", just one thing to say...STOP!!
Let someone else take it from here.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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The WOOT of all evil...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
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if I ever get back to FAs I think I'll look for a climb to call "Barfing Rainbows"
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 15, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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The latest poll numbers are now in: ERIK SLOAN, STOP DRILLING
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 15, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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Sloan's new book might be useful as a comprehensive guide... to chopping a bunch of unneeded mid pitch anchors and chickenshit retro bolts. thanks for the map.
the sky ain't yellow...it's chicken. -Bob Dylan
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 15, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber, Livermore, CA
Dec 14, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
if I ever get back to FAs
I think I'll look for a climb to call "Barfing Rainbows"
Ummm? A Route name?
That' is a suggestion,
Barfing Rainbows?
Calling ...
Portfolio Recovery . . .
In-coming. . .
Air mail
Nanook to Connecticut
or New York City"
Set him up as a route setter.
Or in charge of Safety instillations
so he has his need for glory met.
There is rock that calls for bolting for the masses
where there are masses, who need the bolt ladders.
Let Ken Nichols & FRM, or the PIPC, sort it out.
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 15, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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I like the idea of making a map out of his guide book. Just retribution
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 15, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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Sloan's new book might be useful as a comprehensive guide... to chopping a bunch of unneeded mid pitch anchors and chickenshit retro bolts. thanks for the map.
Anybody know how to use VisiCalc? A spreadsheet might work well to figure out how to de-Nanook all the routes in the best place on earth.
Hartouni? Hartouni? Hartouni? Hartouni?
Take Sloan's "improved" guide book, and mark all the retrobolts with a flourescent highlighter.
And, then publish it . . . .
. . . . As a historical monument to the nadir of Yosemite climbing history.
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 15, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
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just call it de-nooking, sort of appropriate
Edit ;
That is a good one Mr. Shag
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Dec 15, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
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UNWOOT THE ROUTE!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Dec 15, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
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Might be adding to the slamfest here soon...
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 16, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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What I don't hear much of in this discussion is what kinds of stewardship projects you guys are interested in? Honestly there is so much to do here - heck the NPS almost just closed all the parking on the El Cap meadow side of the straightaway by the El Cap bridge. Involvement of all kinds is needed!
As I've pointed out on other threads, there are tons of mid-pitch anchors on other routes, for no reason other than you can stop climbing the pitch early, and no one seems to be all tweaked about them.
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Matthewr
climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Dec 16, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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The last time I climbed BOR, in 2005, there was a mid pitch anchor added to the second pitch. It provided an easier decent and avoided the loose and dirty upper half of pitch 2. Is that anchor still there?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 16, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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there are tons of mid-pitch anchors on other routes
Tons Erik? Where are the TONS?
One of the only ones I'm truly aware of is the second pitch of Hot line.
FA stopped there because they started aid climbing there to the base of the long hand crack.
After Bachar and Kauk freed the first pitch all the way to the base of the hand crack that one bolt anchor should have been removed.
Instead the bolt was upgraded and people hang in their harness the middle of the pitch making two short pitches out of one.
It makes the whole first pitch easier since you're resting right before the crux.
kinda lame ....
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Dec 27, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Bump :-)
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Obviously bitching on ST is doing nothing to rectify the problem.
My question is this: what powers of enforcement do we as a community or otherwise really have? What can and should be done to encourage Sloan and others to better respect the traditional ethic and bolting standards of Yosemite climbing?
Are we powerless? Can anyone truly do whatever they want here without anything to fear but worthless online bitching?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 27, 2015 - 08:36am PT
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Obviously bitching on ST is doing nothing to rectify the problem.
How do you know what's really going behind the scenes?
You don't!
There's a lot more going on then you'll ever see on the some internet forum ....
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 27, 2015 - 10:13am PT
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I believe Werner got a slingshot for Christmas and spent yesterday practicing.
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