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Aging Trad
Trad climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 26, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
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With a resume like Todd's, he must have "hung it out" on a number of occasions, but for some reason I never expected to hear news like this about him. Sending prayers to all those who were close to him. (And I will replace my close-to-twenty-year-old Bod harness before I climb again.)
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Alison Osius
climber
Carbondale
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Oct 26, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
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Todd and Paul's slide show at the AAC meeting in Atlanta was the funniest show I ever saw. I laughed until I cried.
When Mike and I and our two boys, then 4 and 1, went to Hueco Tanks, Todd was on something at the 45-degree Wall and said to our older boy, "Hey, Teddy, come here." He showed him a small white hand print on the rock, and asked him to put his hand on it. Teddy did, and Todd said, "Perfect fit!" There were Native American paintings on the rock nearby, and Todd told Teddy how hundreds of years ago, an adult must have been painting them, and a little kid was sitting at the bottom, and splashed his hands in the paint, and slapped at the wall. Teddy, 13 now, still remembers it.
We were an awkward group, with such small kids--the littler one always wiping out--but Todd and Amy invited us over to the ranch for dinner as if the most natural thing in the world. Dinner was antelope.
I first met him in the Gunks in maybe 1987, and just remember him laughing about putting in all the little gear sideways.
A few years ago he stayed with my brother in Vietnam, and my mother, stepfather and older sister happened to visit there at the same time. Todd absolutely cracked them all up, and they came back amused by and fond of him. They don't know much about climbing, but he just reached out and related to them in human ways. He cared about people, no matter who, was just unbelieveable at connecting with them.
This from my old college roommate, Catherine Harris, who climbed for a time in the early 80s, seems heartbreakingly typical:
"I'm sad, sorry, surprised to hear about it. He was a genuinely nice guy and really funny. I hadn't seen him in several years, but he seemed to always remember me...".
Alison Osius
Mike Benge
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flyin spider
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Oct 26, 2006 - 01:09pm PT
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Sadly, it IS true. I was there on the same day and have confirmed it with Hans, who was interviewed about the accident for the wire services. Preliminary report is that his harness MAY HAVE broken - but that is not is NOT confirmed. He was on the rappel descent, and fell about 500 feet.
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Dfrost
Social climber
Ca
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Oct 26, 2006 - 01:12pm PT
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The great thing is that a story about Todd brings a smile or a laugh.
I did a T shirt design for him for one of his slide show tours. The first
time I met him, I saw his head turn when someone called his name at
Sunnyside. I said, "excuse me, you and I have a mustual friend". His
face brightened and when I told him Russel E. Todd said he would stop
what ever he was doing to climb with him again. Then, he gave me
one of his Russian Climbing Team tank shirts which my parents would
make me cover with a jacket when I wore the giant yellow hammer and
sicle on the bright red tank at their house. Amy, you must
know how important and far reaching his influence has been, from
hand to hand, heart to heart. Russel will be there Saturday to pay his
respects to your family. When anyone lives a life so well that it causes
you to take account of how well you are fufilling your own, that's a
well lived life.
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flyin spider
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Oct 26, 2006 - 01:29pm PT
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Like many people, I was weaned on the videos of Todd and others in the Masters of Stone series, Climb International, etc. I have played all those videos in the background so many times that I have all of them memorized pretty much word-for-word and move-for-move. He WAS certainly a huge inspiration. The training camp he and Paul ran at Hueco was reminiscent of the Long/Bachar regimens that honed them into what they became and took everyone to the next level.
Alot has been said about how Todd "sprayed" his own accomplishmnets but that was always tempered with respect for the Euros and the next generation...and he was never above depricating his own expolits as he talked of those he felt were superior in skill to him. Of course, the fact that he was still setting new standards for free-climbing at age 47 is an inspiring testament to himself and to the longevity of the climbing lifestyle.
I can attest to his openess to others, as the first time I met him he invited me on his Trango Tower expedition, saying he had all but $1,000 of it covered for me if I wanted to go and be a haul bag flunkie. I wish now that I had been able to swing it. Surely that would have been an unforgettable trip.
We will miss him. My prayers for Amy and the rest of his family.
 Marc
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Oct 26, 2006 - 01:36pm PT
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It’s great to see so many people come out of the woodwork to post up about Todd here at the Taco Stand. It really shows a lot about his character and what kind of person he was. I first met Todd at one of his Salathe slide shows in the late 80’s and later at the City of Rocks. He always had the biggest smile on his face and was just as happy to talk with a newbie kid as he was with talking to his friends who actually climbed at his level. You couldn’t help being the recipient of his tremendous energy – you just couldn’t escape it.
Last January Todd and I discussed (via email) the issues of adding bolts to aid lines – specifically Wet Denim Daydream on Leaning Tower. I was opposed to the addition of new bolts in order for the route to go free but Todd explained how he had spoken with Angus (one of the FAists) and I thought that was great. What struck me about the conversations was that there was never a feeling of an ethical clash, even though we had very different ideas about the progression of aid lines becoming free lines. It felt like we were working together, not against each other. He always had a great attitude about the whole deal and I hoped that we would have a chance to discuss the issues again in person. I suggested that we get as many climbers together as we could, to sit down with a bunch of beer, and have a party to see if we could work things out so that everyone was happy.
The following two quotes are excerpts from the emails that Todd sent me. I hope it is OK that I share them here.
“Climbing is an amazing sport/cult/drug/life and we must all be eternally vigilant against the factors that dilute or pollute it. That's why I won't read any of the magazines and won't even ask for a pro-deal on equipment. I could be seen as a hypocrite, since the road to this philosophical state involved all of the things I now reject- maybe like hang-dogging in order to free a climb? Let's have a party/roundtable early this spring and see if we can find common ground…”
I just wish that he was still here so that we could have that party. It would have been a lot of fun, I’m sure.
Concerning the death of my uncle Ned, Todd wrote:
“…sometimes these adventures that enhance our lives can also bring them to an end.”
Unfortunately, this is so true. I don’t know what else to say.
My very best wishes to his wife, his children, the rest of his family, and those who were/are close to him. Take care, all of you.
-Bryan
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Vlad
climber
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Oct 26, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
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I've met Todd in 2004. He was invited by my company for a speech and a slideshow. I'm not a climber, and the stories he was telling were so fantastic... I couldn't imagine that man is capable of doing what he has done, overcaming what he has overcame, and achieving what he has achieved. I literally went online and research everything he was talking about. Half to see if it was true and half to learn more about fascinating world of free climbing.
I can 110% attest to his great personality. I was hanging out with him for may be 3 hours total, and after that it felt like he was a good friend of mine and I knew him all my life. He could talk about anything and not only talk but listen. When he was listening you knew he wan't just being polite. He was genuinly curious about things and he was really interested in what eveyone has to say.
He didn't just came, gave a speech and went away unnoticed. No. He made everybody a believer and a personal friend. Amazing guy. So when the sad news came, somebody in my company send a message, and everybody is sad here too now.
I have some pictures from that sunny summer day that I want to share. You can literally see Todd's energy, stories and good spirit flowing
My condolences to the family
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PMcGregor
Trad climber
Neuquen, Argentina
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Oct 26, 2006 - 02:39pm PT
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My Dear Friend,
I had always meant to send this 1981 photo of you on Petit Grepon in Estes Park Colorado. I like this photo because it shows your contagious smile and that glow that surrounds you. And what a great day that was. I clearly remember whining at you to put in more protection as you hauled me to the summit.
By the way it was so nice to get that email from you 2 months ago. When I read your email it was as if you were standing next to me. Did I ever say thank you for befriending me at the University of Wyoming in 1980 and for teaching me how to climb? And later, when you were pushing 5.12, you had no qualms about inviting a 5.9 climber like myself to Joshua Tree for spring break. But that was you, always willing to give a piece of yourself and share a great experience. I remember sitting around the campfire, drinking the cheapest beer on the planet, and you telling epic tales about winter snow caves on Gannett Peak or Mawson eating sled dog livers in the Antarctic. Little did we know that years later people would be telling epic tales about you. Remember how we would sneak up behind unsuspecting slow moving Winnebagos, climb up the ladders on the back to sit on the top, in order to be ferried to the next climb? Of course we were laughing hysterically all the way. You called it “riding the wild bagos”. When we graduated in 1982 you told me that instead of getting a real job that you and Paul would climb for a while. And climb you did! You were always my hero.
Amy thank you for your warm letter that you posted on this forum. My
condolences go to you, your children, family, and friends as well as
to Bob, Orion, Holly and Paul Piana. I see that another friend and climber from those days, Greg Waterman, aka H2Oman, posted earlier on this forum. Hi Gregg, you are so correct when you say that Todd touched the lives of hundreds if not thousands of people. I always smile when I think of Todd however I am filled with such sadness at this very moment. Thank you to the forum for providing this space.
Peter McGregor
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Brian Bailey
Trad climber
CO
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Oct 26, 2006 - 02:46pm PT
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My heart is heavy with the news of Todd's passing. I first met him at the base of the Cookie in 86' and have crossed paths many times since. I had only been climbing a couple years at the time and here was this guy working on one of the hardest routes in the country and still, he seemed to be more interested in what I was climbing. Todd always made you feel like the most special person in the world. I used to always say that he was my favorite climber, then I would always correct myself and say he was one of my favorite people period! I feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to know Todd. His passion for life was contagious and it was hard not to be excited when around him. His humor and story telling were legendary. I was lucky enough to stay with him and Amy at South Pass one time and travel up one side of the Winds and back down the other with him. I learned more about the West in those few days than a lifetime. "Yeah, Brian, Wyoming's nothing but wind and rattlesnakes" he'd say with a smile on his face.
RIP my brother. You made the world a better place for sure.
My deepest sympathy to Amy and the kids.
Brian Bailey
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donn
Sport climber
san leandro,ca
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Oct 26, 2006 - 02:55pm PT
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I had just started climbing with a university climbing class when Todd came through our little podunk town and gave a slide show. He then spent a little time climbing at our local crag. It was pretty amazing for a total newbie to be hanging out at the crag and getting encouragement from such a hero. That early experience really helped make climbing all that more magical to me.
Later I would see Todd at crags all over the US and he'd always have that great smile and positive attitude. One winter in Hueco I was leaving to New Mexico to do some climbing and lacked a proper jacket for the cold, so I hit up Todd to see if he had an old coat he could sell me. He responded "no, but take this and just send it back whenever you done with it", and hands me a nice North Face down jacket. A few months later I did finally mail it back to him :-) That's how I remember Todd, always friendly and always happy to help out a fellow climber. Or fellow human for that matter.
My two year old son is named Lander Bertrand. Though we didn't really have Lander, Wyoming in mind when we named him, when he is old enough to ask about his name, I'll tell him about Lander Wyoming and Todd (and of course about Bertrand the crazy Frenchman who taught me to climb who passed away in a car accident years ago).
Donn Goodhew
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Oct 26, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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Wow, reading all these posts make me wish I had the chance to meet this man. I don't think I'm alone in this thought. It sounds like his spirit was contagious and will continue to live on through others that he touched.
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jayson son
Trad climber
boystown curry village
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Oct 26, 2006 - 03:06pm PT
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so very sorry, Todd was RAD. Peace to all family and friends.
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KingsX
Boulder climber
SLC, UT
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Oct 26, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
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...it's finally sinking in.
No matter what your beliefs, about Todd or the greatest of life's unanswerable questions, the world has lost another beacon of hope.
Todd Skinner has been known to be controversial. Nothing held a candle to his enthusiasm, however. As it has been stated somewhere way above; there are many great climbers, now more than ever, but imagine climbing today without someone like Todd to have asked the question long ago, "what is possible?" (paraphrasing)
Seriously, his "stoke" and his "psych" were more legendary than his climbing abilities, and as we are all very much aware, were incredible. He truly was a Master of Stone and yes, he did seem invincible. We all gotta go sometime, and it's rare that we get to pick how and when. The day the news broke, I had friends call to let me know, friends that actually met or knew Todd personally. I did not "know" him, as I never had the pleasure of meeting him. But still I did feel like I knew enough about him, that I'd naturally gravitate towards him. This man had such an infectious, positive attitude, that it actually preceded him. The world could sure use a few more Todd Skinners, especially nowadays.
Look at how many people have been touched by Todd in some way, and this is on one forum. For his Lander community, family and children... I am so very sorry for your loss, and of course, no words can bring him back. But I do want you to know, you are not alone. You spent time with a giant among you. The best we can hope to do is try to imitate his beaming enthusiasm and remember the great things he's taught us by his examples. If Todd only knew how deeply and widely he touched so many lives, he'd be moved to tears I'm sure.
I'll say unabashedly, that if we all just gave a bit of effort to emulate this fallen comrades positive attitude, it could be the best way to properly honor him. It will certainly make the world a better place. These are surely mighty big shoes to fill.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 26, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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Todd was an inspiration to me while I was growing up and learning about climbing. Sorry to hear about this accident.
Many people have raised concenrs/complaints about his bolting jobs in the past (myself included), but all that seems silly and insignificant now. It sounds like he was a great person and had a great life.
:(
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Oct 26, 2006 - 03:30pm PT
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"Aid climbin' ain't climbing..."-TS
RIP. Condolences to all much closer.
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Lezlie Lehmann
Trad climber
Van Nuys, Ca.
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Oct 26, 2006 - 03:37pm PT
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Hi Becca,
I have posted photos of Todd at Index, Wash. , Hueco Tanks and J.Tree in a 2 part e-mail that I sent to your e-mail address a short while ago. I would post them here, but I don't know how it works. Please share with Amy and family if you feel it's appropriate.
Peace Be with You -
Lezlie
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Crack
Trad climber
Gillette, WY
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Oct 26, 2006 - 04:26pm PT
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The climbing community has lost the greatest inspiration of his generation... and Wyoming has lost a great Cowboy...
I met Todd only once. He presented a slide show back in '95 or so for our local climbing club. I remember him saying that this was the first time any of his presentations had been made on a CEILING (Jr. High Planetarium). He was stoked...
I remember the trunk full prototype Reebok climbing shoes...
I remember hanging out afterwards at Carl Coy's place... talking about his upcoming trip to Nameless Tower... the unique hanging stove Carl had "invented" and Todd's desire to use it on his upcoming trip...
I remember how I was in complete AWE of this man even before we met...
I remember his smile... his energy...
I remember how completely HUMBLE he was...
But the thing I will NEVER forget... was the way he looked at his wife.
Amy... the thoughts and prayers of ALL are with you and your children...
Respectfully,
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Oct 26, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
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My heart is heavy from this news. I too met Todd. He was the guest speaker at a work event held in Vegas back in 2000. He presented his Cowboy Direct slide show. That was by far the most awesome climbing story I ever heard first hand. He and I were the only climbers in the room of about 1500 people. Afterwards I introduced myself and he was genuinely excited to meet a fellow climber. We quite naturally talked about climbing for hours and drank a few beers too. It was a fun evening. Man, I’m really bummed about his passing.
Well wishes and prayers for the family.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Oct 26, 2006 - 04:37pm PT
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"You have to keep moving. Otherwise you rust." -George Shaller on aging and staying fit.
Todd was keeping the dream alive while stoking the fires in each of us. I tip my glass in his memory. Cheers!
Becca, I'm sure he would be bummed if you quit climbing. You'll find his spirit alive and well high on the walls, singing in the wind.
Follow "in his footsteps" indeed.
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spot
Social climber
Atascadero,Ca
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Oct 26, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
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It's been amamzing to think of how many lives Todd has touched in his time here and comforting to know how much support there is for those he left behind. As with many of you, my contact with Todd was short, but something to remember. I'm not a climber, but a lover of all things outdoors.
I've been a distant friend of Amy since her days at junior college in Susanville and it was only about three years ago that our family met her husband, Todd, on a visit to Lander. Of course, as seems to be the norm, we were welcomed with open arms. Our visit was short, but we felt from the moment we met Todd that he was a genuine friend to everyone he meets. We always thought there would be more time to get to know Todd and never expected what happened.
To Amy, who lost her husband, soulmate and father of their kids, To Hannah, Sara, and Jake who lost a wonderful dad, and to the Skinner and Whisler families who lost a son, brother and uncle, our family's hearts and prayers are with you.
To all his friends, and people he inspired, we lost a hero, mentor and source of inspiration, but a piece of Todd will still be climbing in each and everyone of us.
The Stevenson Family - Randy,Judi,Kori and Mitchell
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