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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 10, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Mike really makes this discussion fun and light hearted.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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Lol Greg.
Sometimes I do take jokes a little seriously I guess. I strive to retain my sense of humour, however. Did you not find this amusing?
So if your really concerned that I don't consider your new send a redpoint, put perma-draws on it.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 10, 2015 - 10:01am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 10:03am PT
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LOL!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 10, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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This seems a bit political, dont'cha think?
My 2cents;
Back in 90' when i was first starting out up at Smith rock i was calhoot'in around with infamous JC(John Collins),1st accent extremist, and bartender exstrodinair at the Deschuetes Brewery. One fine day we were snort'in our way up cocaine alley, when i caught view of a skinny Lycra clad dude'et clip the second bolt on some 13c thingy then pull himself up by the draw, clip in, and yell down "Take". I sez to JC, "doesn't he know there's more bolts above him?" JC busted out with his great eye tearing laugh. He then proceeded into his well-known humble, patient, historical school'in. You see, when the first "Frenchies" came over here to climb the worlds hardest sport climbs, by the time they got to the trails that led up to the gullies. They stopped and said, No way! We asked them How come? They replied, to hike up such a steep approach will cause our legs to grow to much muscle meaning more unnecessary weight to get up the climb. So they went home!
The story goes, the following year they returned with porters to carry they're gear and made it to the base. Also bringing their Euro tactics. One of which, they would climb to each bolt, clip a draw, hang and rest. Then lower and work that sequence,rest, then move on to the next bolt in this same fashion until reaching the anchor. Once back on the ground, they'd pull the rope, eat some cheese, and take a short nap. The next step they would lead the rte from ground to anchor with draws already in place.
Later back at the campfire, we'd ask them if they climbed today? Their reply," WeWe, we redpointed "To Bolt or not to bolt". Which got our response, NoNo, you Pinkpointed it!
Causing beer to spew through our nose, and more tears of laughter ;^D
Not sure if Smith is the original home to the term, but it otta be, or not to be?
Carry on : )
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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May 10, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Just having a little fun, Mike.
%^)
Yer killin' me, Jefe...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Blue- It certainly seems that some people take it that way. Thanks for the story, and the laughs.
E- I figured. Guess i was a little too cereal this morning...
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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May 10, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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bump!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 10, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
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I walked in a climbing gym a couple of years back when living in Colorado...
Turned around and walked right back out...
No fuking way!!!...
+1 except it was Montana
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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May 10, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Why would anyone bump this moronic thread?
Oh. Never mind.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 10, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
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skitch- this thread is hilarious. Go back to the gym.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
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Skitch- care to bring your thoughts to this discussion?
Not surprising. I've always found similarities between our opinions.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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May 10, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
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My opinion??? Same as yours: it's fun to f*#k with people about sh#t that don't matter!
SAN DIMAS HIGH SCHOOL FOOTBALL RULES!!!
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ruppell
climber
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May 10, 2015 - 08:40pm PT
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Wait? Are you saying this doesn't matter? Oh crap. I thought we where changing the course of history here.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 10, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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Could one's passion regarding the minute styles of labeling an ascent of a sport climb be proportional to the desk/climbing ratio?
I seem to be an expert in the no-point ascent currently!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 10, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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it occurs to me that yanqui doesn't like the color pink. What's up yanqui? Don't be a hater, bro. Think Pink
Dr. Evil explained it to me, and I can feel the love:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
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Yanqui, we had such a nice discussion. Have you joined the rank of those under the bridge?
Moose you better not! :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 11:38pm PT
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My opinion??? Same as yours: it's fun to f*#k with people about sh#t that don't matter!
This is entirely incorrect. I quite enjoy talking about this kind of thing. As I have proven by sharing my thoughts and encouraging an open discussion. What I find funny is the ad hominem attitude that develops when someone challenges popular thought around here.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 11, 2015 - 03:51am PT
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Yanqui, we had such a nice discussion. Have you joined the rank of those under the bridge?
Hmm.... troll? Could be, but I don't think so. Sometimes it's hard to tell from inside our own tunnel vision if what we are doing is a troll or not. I would say more like an attempt at satire (at a position taken and nothing personal intended).
Our earlier discussion, at least from my side, was about trying to define the meaning of the style generally accepted in sport climbing as it is practiced by (I believe) the vast majority of people who do it and (certainly) by the more elite group who are able to do difficult sport routes (to some extent "difficulty", as defined by the style, is an intrinsic part of the game). If you want to ply your own ends to sport climbing, for example, by considering yourself successful (by your own standard) only if you can climb a sport route on your first go, putting in draws, that's cool. More power to you. If you had started this thread saying something like: "I'm a crappy sport climber, but I don't care and I really enjoy climbing a sport route more, when I climb it my first try, putting in the draws ... (etc.)" then the whole discussion would have taken a different turn. But instead, you proposed bringing back a definition that had died decades ago among sport climbers and then reapplying it to high end routes, thus implying that, somehow, these ascents fell short. Something worthy of satire, in my opinion, at this point.
At any rate, enough talking about words. If you really want to redefine the style and meaning of redpoint in sport climbing, in my opinion, here's the way to do it. Isn't Dreamcatcher a nearby route that doesn't have "perma-draws" on it? Well go out there and send it (as well as some other 5.14s) putting in the draws. Then swagger around and claim the first redpoint. At that point, you may just have an honest-to-goodness argument for bringing back a dead definition. Until then, we're just a bunch of weak sauce talking about words. Redefining the meaning of redpoint in sport climbing is something people do not words people say.
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