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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 25, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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GThe list is just the sweet spot)( so I have transported it to the flames
Apr 25, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
*** 5.10-5.11 routes with 4+ pitches:
Demon's Delight 5.11a *** 4 pitches
The Good Book 5.10d *** 6
Freestone 5.11c *** 8
Serenity Crack - Sons of Yesterday 5.10a or 5.10d *** 8
Royal Arches 5.10b or 5.7 A0 *** 15
Astroman 5.11c *** 11
Crest Jewel 5.10a *** 10
Crest Jewel Direct 5.10d *** 15
Half Dome - North Ridge 5.10d R *** 10
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face 5.12 or 5.9 C1 *** 24
Hall of Mirrors - first 7 pitches 5.11b *** 7
South By Southwest 5.11a *** 5
Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress - regular 5.10c or 5.9 A0 *** 11
Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.10d *** 10
Stoner's Highway 5.10c *** 10
Middle Cathedral Rock - Direct North Buttress 5.10b *** 17
Ho Chi Minh Trail 5.10c *** 20
Morning Lumber 5.11c *** 7
Black Primo 5.11b R *** 5
Freewheelin' 5.10b R *** 5
Annihilator 5.11c *** 8
The Rostrum - Regular North Face [closed] 5.11c *** 8
Hotline 5.12a or 5.11 A0 *** 7
[\quote]
I don't have Voyager in there at present, as it's tricky to assign stars to newish routes.
If you add the ** routes, the list will expand, of course.
For example, Ribbon Candy, El Cap - West Face, and El Cap - East Buttress are **.
(It's subjective, of course).
But the list above might be worth looking over, too.
The list is from a thread that asks, what are the 'best' as if the word had any meaning,but Clint is the Man!
The need for this shows that, apparently looking up, and going, "that looks good let's climb it", has gone out of style now it seems the cell phone app is not enough.
It is the great list ! One or two others come to mind a t reeds and the cookie ,
Elephant rock??
Anyway
I must say. . .
THANK YOU CLINT CUMMINS
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 12:53am PT
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T H A N K Y O U G N O M E O F the D I A B A S E
Trip Report was enjoyable. Micockles warm in my heart.
Friendships are gold.
Boldness is goldness.
What songs were you listening to on the ride to the climb?
This TR is useless without MUSIC!Damned foliage gets in the way of all the shots, huh?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 01:28am PT
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Swinging about on vines and branches to get up the dangthing is cool if you're an apeman. That's your urban jungle there, TarZ'n.
Bo knows.[Click to View YouTube Video]
This pic is for neebee to appreciate.
It's a different view of Middle Earth than the one we looked at from 'googled earth.'
MFM lives in the apartment with the Venusian vines, the rocks on the window sill, and the Venetian blinds hiding the rat-hole.
Middle Earth to Google Earth, download in progress.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 02:19am PT
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Marlow posted Bassedou Koyate & Ngoni Ba on THAT MUSIC THREAD and was full of exclamations on how beyond perfection those guys are.
http://bassekoukouyate.com/
http://uniontheater-greenroom.blogspot.com/2013/12/from-mali-to-madison-bassekou-kouyate.html
So I'm goin' "I know that rhythm and it's from jolly old Mali, because it's just about like unto Habib Koite." He is a bonzer guitar player from Mali who is solo but who has a band--Bamada.
That's what Wiki says. Solo. And has a band. I'm still wonderin'.
Anyway, Habib is lousy with talented friends because Bamada is a supergroup, not just a group. They are all West African musicians.
Kélétigui Diabaté plays this marimba-like African instrument with Bamada.It is also know as also known as balafo, bala, Balani, Gyil, and Balangi, is a type of tuned percussion instrument. It is played by using two padded sticks to strike the tuned keys.
Habib's playlist. The first selection, Din Din Wo, is a feast of sunrises in West Africa, I suppose. Check that one out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4vV5_ViE4w&list=PLOrS4CyT-
gLbDPGwjRwWWss6m_sjZOBtf
It's all too indescribabble. Words do no justice to good music.
Exceptin' nonsense rhymes. They're all over the world, too.
"Keemo kaimo, kaimo kee
Way down yonder in a hollow tree
An owl and a bat and a bumblebee
King kong kitchy kitchy kaimee oh!"
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]Shoo lie loo. Fly away over yonder.[Click to View YouTube Video]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 03:15am PT
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The Okie Poet
VALLEY FOG
By Wilma Elizabeth McDaniel
She arrived
fashionably late this year
cloaked in classic trailing gray
dripping with diamonds
so many
when she even moved a finger
they fell by millions
teardrop perfect on houses
lawns
railroad tracks
wasted their beauty on growling
trucks
and gave the water tower
a noble tiara
All rights reserved ©Back40 Publishing/Stone Woman Press, Joshua Tree, Calif.
http://sanjoaquinhistory.org/blog/?p=1245
CHANGES OF 1936
by Wilma Elizabeth McDaniel
Poor girl
with Oklahoma straw
Braided in your hair
forget back there
The dark blue call
of whippoorwills
slow purpling skies
of warning
Here is here
California night falls
instantly
draws a black curtain
over vineyards
not a single firefly
will light your way home
This appeared in Man With a Star Quilt, Chiron Review Press, 1995.
Same rules apply to copyright per the Stone Woman in Josh.
I should say, "These are posted for amyjo."
But I'm sure she'll know.
By way of thanks, amyjo.[Click to View YouTube Video]"If that mockingbird can't sing maybe he can count."--Jay Scrub
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 26, 2015 - 04:13am PT
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hey there say, mouse... wow, lovely greenery photo shots!!
say, will have to look into that colorado river stuff, through the
grand canyon... :))
oh my, that you missed the small parade, :(
well, the photo of the street, was done very well--on a good note... :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 26, 2015 - 05:38am PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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edit on returning I must say that of the pictures that mfm posted six or seven were in my mind to post also, the Half moon the rats with wings hey thats not nice I like Pigions but the noise hawk that lives near by has a steady diet of chipmonk and pigeon, so no boyds homee,
thats pictures of said birds....
Thank you for the kind words but they are premature, the thing is a work in progress.
and to just measure up will not be enough,
with my track record of pissing into the wind, spraying all over, hitting the legends and n00bs with equal if random amounts and having hidden out here in the flames I have made some Pals a few true friends, but I fear more dislike my drivelle and since i say fvck 'em, they say the same to me , seems fair.
( what the F I did to deserve the silent treatment is beyond me?)
The penchant for bashing thru shear neglect to post an "I, C";
leaving the rejection of leaving the 'front page' in two or three hours has left me. . .
( my favorite new old word)
I am "want' to post in the Trip Report forum.
That is, instead, I know that my crazy old school-come french-style, of climbing, . . . will be well taken in here by the Flames readers.
I do not know, however, how many of the lurkers will stop and read what the squat old fart of a gnome has put into words. No one but my girl child cares, well me and her,
but ya' know I am to old for putting up with such. . . . . .
If I had A million dollars I still would not wear piza bones as a badge of honor, saying 'look , look at me a brand new $60 dollar shirt I got on here and I can wreck it'.
No matter that the most of'em can't afford toast! merde what an azz!
??is this Pass the Pitons Petes thread ? oops no I missed that this week, so my 'at least one. At least one inflammatory comment comment' has been made here, it felt good.
now the thing is to not digress so ,
The thing that I was at, was that to write and go posting here is counter productive,
I mean any where but Flames and Obscure Rock in Nevada....
well that is it for me as that sweety kiddo of mine needs to opine on a home work assignment
.
if you do do so and say so and own your actions , well the Taco at large would/will excoriate my try to share choss, mungylooking ridge lines chock full of short sweet lines climbed in very traditional style but left to langwish behind a fake vale of Inaccessibility , all recognized by this Gnome as a monitizable climbing op[pertunity bar None!!
I had tried when I was younger to buy land adjoining the rock but found myself blocked by my own family! the end result of some pricise not random as claimed cocktail talk led to a bidding war that I was not able to win , and I lost the stoke for NJ climbing and now those regretts hold sway. . .
I have a long day that will not include much moore climbing although I will go to the Shrine and pay my respect //KARMA IS A BIOTCH the thought that like ants on a hogs back dunked in the drink . . . that is the climbers who took up to go for too muc .. to
the top of the world
MA?
Merde
trix are for kids my glowing by monitor light mouse and for music and more from me A bit you must waistcoat,
hmmmm seems i have over heated the auto -correct
Soccer
get the bird food from the
hard to describe Parrot Company a link to follow
then to the Shrine to pay respects and offer cloths to the relife effort, for Nepal ..
then some top rope or scrambleing if the ankels can take it
an
then as it is only still with-out that I will again return to add to this version of Flames
I did start that sparks an' may start another?
Thanx Be to ....
wel yes Gad zooks G-D as Iam still alive and so are You .
all!
This needs to be read as written with a Wife tapping her hand on my head saying stop no one cares and you have no time to edit or even re-read
what are you doing
GO write your own
BLOG?!
full stop!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 26, 2015 - 06:43am PT
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Choss is Boss!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2015 - 06:44am PT
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The RED LINE IS STRESS TEST !
The small red arrow shws the corner that is the Low stress way to reach up higher.
It was a cracked corner that went twenty of the forty feet to the first ledge.
I assumed that it had been done, but now I am not so sure.It is the obvious gear a-plenty way to go if you must sow, then go sow it up and belay close at the first ledge,
yellow, is in part, a yucky thing I down climbed to within thirty feet of the very steep slope;
(the bottom) then bailed back up to find the true down climb.
( I moved from right to left from the top to gain the tree covered ledge)
below is the start of the escape! not a lycra friendly place!
the down climb on the way up it
and another shot half way up the down climbThe Lichen covered Block (at the top of the gully) is where you turn left to exit to the top of the cliff, fun for a goat but. . .
we call it the Western escape hatch.
( No Left Turn Un-stoned, No stone left un-turned)
The thing is that this is the cliff I by passed in the old days for much cleaner harder stuff down ridge aways the line in red up there is what I popped up on a 30 year old thred and old gutz. Fear and dread never entered my mind as the clown on belay whined and tried hard to stop my upward progress ... re- took me off belay!~ he did put me back on!
There is VERY GOOD ROCK IN NEW JERSEY!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 26, 2015 - 07:06am PT
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hey there say, mouse... the vines and the blinds, huh... :)
and rocks...
say, will try to match up that google trek, :)
perhaps tonight or tomorrow...
get the ol' computer telescope, aimed, :))
for arizona... :))
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
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vines, yes, vines, neebee.
the old story goes that Bircheff Dave told
was
that Harding and another nameless guy
showed turkeys at Mirror Lake
when you could park there
that rubbing your hands on the rock surface
vigorously promoted friction potential
coefficiently
and
that on the mighty high above them Half Dome
was the home
of snakes and vines
you just couldnt't see them from that parking lot
this story is still told today, apparently...
hey, neebee, the mighty Colorado is mighty far down in that gully
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2015 - 01:34pm PT
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Well now back from a full sSun day with very little sun , but lots and lots of fun for the son , he scored a goal!
then we went for a stroll on the beach of the Long Island sound.
This link takes you to a site I/we like the one's about Coping and the "new Pain 'Thingy...
http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com
well more later ...
and
why didn't yu point out to break up my posts more?, to drum up the # of post to get to three hundred sooner than Later .
Ho I will ask that on it's own response line . . . nahw it is silly
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
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see it is like this;
opportunity to ruin every thing is the thing to stand against.
Getting paid to teach or take people climbing, from the gyms, has ruined the sport.
The way 'St00pid 'mericans, waste time and money and life makes the guiding game too lucrative to pass up.
when the toll is the decimation of the wild and wide open spaces for gaining of the almighty buck , well it sucks for the rest of us, We all lose.
??stop all Guiding? no of course not. It is the paradox like making it safer, more clients=more cash = more freedom to go climb the out there things.
While back at home the circus is bigger than three rings. . . .
Crowding the rocks, cliffs and walls is inevitable,climbing is just that great.
Says a guide ( I've got a patch n such, that says so)
so do as you do just keep thinking ....
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Apr 26, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
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One day I was running through Beverly Hills and this carload of folks flags me down.
Do you know where her house is? -- Yeah, but I can't tell ya.
An honorary Flame if there ever was one.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Apr 26, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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Well rehearsed, it's hard to tell, but either a mighty fine job of lip synching or real live.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Apr 26, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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Speakin' of the Rolling Stones, they just bought some of my nephew's guitar pedals for the upcoming tour.
The Pedlar now speaks.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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