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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 14, 2015 - 01:13am PT
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hey there say, clint... say, neat share, thanks!
happy good morning, too, :)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 14, 2015 - 03:27am PT
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Today's NYTimes features a front page article, focused on Kevin, cast as the underdog, and his family and girlfriend, Jacque. The aurhor, John Branch, is a 2013 Pultizer prize winner. We learn that edges are pebbles, climbers meet clients dressed in suits, and know their whiskey. The tone is just right for a front page article. I thought that the author climbed, but I didn't find any reference. Nice article.
Way to go Kevin.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 14, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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Some big stuff
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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@Oplopanax: Change is on gneiss. Just like most rock climbing in Norway, Hanshelleren crag consists of gneiss, not granite. Most of the hard bouldering in the Alps is on gneiss as well, but for some reason most climbers seem to think it is granite
I am a geologist, and from a climber's perspective the functional difference between climbing on gneiss and on granite is pretty much zilch. It's like Coke and Pepsi. The point is that Karl's supposed "Dawn Wall is granite so it must be harder than any 5.15 because those are all on limestone" claim is BS.
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BlackSpider
Ice climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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I am a geologist, and from a climber's perspective the functional difference between climbing on gneiss and on granite is pretty much zilch. It's like Coke and Pepsi. The point is that Karl's supposed "Dawn Wall is granite so it must be harder than any 5.15 because those are all on limestone" claim is BS.
And to further that point, the relevant comparison in terms of "hardness" is whether Caldwell and Jorgenson could make progress on and finish Change more quickly than Adam Ondra could do the same on the Dawn Wall. My money would be squarely on Ondra in that situation.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 14, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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The article on how to maintain fingertips on a wall like that sounded pretty methodical to me - about the opposite of reckless. Does anybody have a photo of Aussie tape? It could be good for us aging climbers whose skin gets thinner as we go up in years.
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John M
climber
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:25am PT
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Anyone know what pitch they are on?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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29 I believe. 12C?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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Awkward flare to .11.b OW downclimb... should be good. Looks like those legs are pretty cramped up after 2.5 weeks on the wall.
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Great to see all that work, on both Tommy's and Kevin's part, come to fruition.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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This live footage is increadable.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Not a lot of pro for the second for that 5.11d ow/undercling/downclimb thing. Pretty crazy looking pitch.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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That's what I was thinking.
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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No helmets today. Was there ice falling on them yesterday, but today they're under overhangs?
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Damn, KJ just fell out of the .12b corner.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Yeah, that's a hideous flare.
Maybe time to unclip that stuff off the back of his harness.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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TC used his feet better- Kevin was basically climbing it straight in.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 14, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Tommy was wearing one on his lead and Kevin had one on until he started following I think. I would say they are using them for loose stuff, but who knows.
Bummer just seeing Kevin fall. I can't fathom how they have any energy left.
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