Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions

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EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Nov 20, 2016 - 06:03pm PT
But were those not all Tom Frost?
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Nov 20, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
by the way, Charles Cole has one of those Diamond Peninsula pins...yes with a diamond P logo

He was kind enough to loan it to my shop for a while.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
Didn't Yvon and Tom work together on many of the gear creations and decisions?

Besides making improvements on gear that already existed, what "new" creations does Tom/Yvon get credit for anyways?

Ice screw ratchet.
The Chouinard Skyhook Cliffhanger predates Dolt (Cassin 1955 made Fiffi hook)
Crack N up was the first beak style piton
Tube Chocks
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Nov 20, 2016 - 08:36pm PT
The first use of something much like tube chocks may have been on Pipeline at Squamish, in 1966. Sections of pipe sawed to fit endways in a wide crack.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
Mighty Hiker - Yes understood. But the discussion here is about a product that has a company name, heavily manufactured and sold to the public for climbing use. The product may have a patent, cataloged, or at some time the company was liable for taxes on the product in some way.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2016 - 08:36am PT

The Chouinard Carabiner beginning story from Marty’s mind….


I believe the first thing that Yvon Chouinard created was a Lost Arrow and that was in 1957. But in 1957 Chouinard’s biggest intention was to create the first ringless angle pitons. I have yet to see a drawing or photo of these 1957 angles, but they are mentioned in the Chouinard firsts list. I believe the third item on Chouinard’s mind was creating a carabiner, which in 1957 the carabiner was only in the drawing stage of creation.

In the same 1965/66 Chouinard catalog as the Chouinard firsts list, is a mention of the carabiner stating that it was first introduced in 1958. It actually states, “The first Model was introduced in 1958…..then years following it went through gate and spring changes.” The first Model Chouinard carabiner did not have the word “Chouinard” on it and only a handful were made early in 1958. The gate was slightly shortened and rounded on one end and is considered the Model II, but I feel that there were only a handful of these made as well just to be used as test items given to friends.

In the March 1960 Dolt catalog it states that “during the 1959 climbing season” (Spring - Fall?), Chouinard introduced the Model III carabiner to the outer public. So I know all of the collectors and historians have the amazing Chouinard carabiner dialed into 1957, but facts are facts. So in reality the Chouinard carabiner was not mass produced until 1959 and it was considered the Model III. The Model III name got dropped since the other two models were just short runs for testing. However in the 1966 catalog Chouinard still uses the word Model to describe the carabiner.

So Fritz I love you, and you are the Chouinard carabiner master historian, but you throw aside the word Model when describing the 1957-1959 story of the Chouinard carabiner. Chouinard I am sure helped Dolt with Chouinard product wordage for the Dolt 1960 catalog, and Chouinard uses the word Model in his 1965/66 catalog so I believe the “Model III” description words in the Dolt catalog came from Chouinard personally.

For the confusion in the firsts list I believe that Chouinard in 1964/65 when he first created his firsts list, was most proud of his Chouinard carabiner and wanted it to be listed first overall. So Chouinard combined the two years showing that sometime in 1957-58 a carabiner was created, angels, and lost arrows. Otherwise if all three of these items were first created in 1957, then why also mention 1958? Also why did Chouinard not just list the carabiner as first made in 1958? The gear historians are the ones who push this carabiner as being sold to the public in 1957.



Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 10, 2016 - 08:46am PT

Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 10, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
Marty! You are right & I am guilty of trying to ignore at least one of those first three models of CHOUINARD ALCOA carabiner. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2906806&tn=20#msg291682
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Dec 12, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
It always cracked me up that the "Chouinard firsts" were Frost firsts, and that as soon as Tom Frost left for Colorado to start Chimera, the Photography Lighting equipment company, firsts at the diamond c, ceased. Yvon could however see great creativity in others, and repeatedly copied someone else's great design.. maybe not as well made, but still functional. oh ok Julio did a great job with the D, but that still was not the guy who took credit for it all....

The real Yvon Chouinard respectable legacy. was what a wonderful employer he was, how really great he was at marketing, and what a great corporate example he has been as a citizen.

The lost arrow was not a creation, but a near exact copy of Salathe's design. Even the logo was a near exact copy of Salathe's logo for the Diamond Peninsula Company. The Diamond P!
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
From Steve - To be clear about the succession of distinct very early Chouinard carabiners, Yvon had dies made to have Alcoa drop forge the carabiner bodies. These dies eventually wear out and the replacement die often reflected subtle design improvements.

The very first die lot did not have CHOUINARD incorporated into the raised lettering on the bodies as they arrived. Tom Frost pointed this out to Yvon the first time that he pulled one out of his pocket and introduced it to Tom as his own product. American made hardware other than military surplus was rare and Tom was a bit skeptical of Yvon's claim of ownership and commented "besides, I don't see your name anywhere on it."

Yvon's quick solution was to have his name carefully ground into the existing first die before the next original die lot was produced. Because the original die was already made and hardened, the added lettering was far from crisp and distinctly raised as compared to the intentional lettering already present in that die. I like to call it the "ghost of Chouinard".

So you have two versions of the first die runs with only the original die lot of perhaps a few hundred lacking "CHOUINARD." I am not quite sure how Bill arrived at his model designations as per his catalog but I don't think it was a direct reflection of the succession of dies as much as perhaps the detailing on the gate or other machining that would have changed once Yvon began assembling and finishing the entire carabiner in quantity.

In any case, the anonymous Alcoa is the rarest of the early Chouinard carabiners and thanks to a timely gear purchase by Roots we have a few examples to show and discuss. Tom's story was the clue that got me looking past the ghost of Chouinard in the first place finally arriving at the proper historical perspective. I haven't had the opportunity to ask Yvon about any of this as I have still not met or interviewed him but hope to in the near future.



Steve - is there still 3 versions of the early Chouinard carabiner?

No Chouinard
Ghost Chouinard
More crisp Chouinard

or was there just 2 - No Chouinard, and ghost Chouinard?

Just wondering if when they made a newer die other than the first, they more perfected the Chouinard word?
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
I still believe that Chouinard was classifying his first carabiners as models. The Model III was the perfection. In the 1965/66 catalog Chouinard writes "the first model Chouinard carabiner....', but why does he say that when the second Chouinard carabiner wasn't created until 1968? So why say the first model when there is still only one style carabiner, unless there are other Chouinard carabiners to compare it to as progression.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 14, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
Marty- I can't recall seeing an Alcoa biner with CHOUINARD lettering as crisp as the "820" and "Alcoa" so I think that those biners were made from a single die which was engraved with the ghostly CHOUINARD after the first die lot. If you have seen one then a second die was employed to continue production.

I think the model designations had more to do with gate assembly details like the hinge pin material, springs and some other machining details that you point out in comparison. To establish that a second die was involved in producing the Alcoa biners you would need a variation in the body shape as they came from Alcoa rather than variations in the finishing of said bodies.

Yvon was competing with army surplus oval carabiners which were very cheap so I am not sure that he sold a lot of them at a higher price early on.

Without asking Yvon directly about this there is now way to work out the Model designations in Bill's catalog. I think it had more to do with Bill's discerning attention to detail as the product was improved during production.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2017 - 09:47pm PT



I finally obtained the 1982 Chouinard #5 brass nut that I was missing. What it looks like is that Chouinard used a mix of blue wire keepers and clear light brown wire keepers in the 1981-1982 time, then went back to the clear light brown keepers only.



Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
May 9, 2017 - 12:01am PT
It's all so complicated...
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2017 - 08:33pm PT




Showing here is the 2015 Black Diamond Stopper set. This is the new vibrant colors Black Diamond offers made in China. I have noticed recently that now the Stopper tags are printed made in the US or USA. I am not sure if these Stoppers are actually fully made in the USA, or the parts are made in China and final assembly is in the USA, or actually just the mfg hang tags are the only item that is actually made in the USA. But there is a change.

The new 2017 Stoppers are no longer stamped with the Stopper number and no manufacture logo. The numbers are now printed on the test tag on the swag located under the clear plastic wire keeper. The 2015 Stopper test tags are white color and the new 2017 test tags are black color.

I have noticed that there is almost no difference between the 2015 #1 and #2 Stopper. The size thickness and width is exactly the same. The only difference I can see is at the top of the nut where the wires fit through the nut, and the overall length of the nut is 1/32 longer. The 2017 #2 Stopper is much bigger than the 2015 version.



The 2017 Hexentrics are now offered in a six color range similar to the stoppers. The Hexentrics have no number and no mfg logo stamp on them. The size number is now located on the black test tag on the swag located under the clear plastic wire keeper. Made in USA hang tags. The colors started to change in 2015 so on the shelves you may find older stamped hexentrics with the new colors but have the older white test tags.



Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Jul 2, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
Thanks for that post, Marty! I'd definitely noticed that problem with the sizing of the #2 stopper. I'm jazzed it's been fixed and will have to go get a few #2s.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2017 - 07:59pm PT

I was looking through some old catalog pages and then I noticed a listing for a Chouinard "Extra Thin" Bugaboo. I don't think this Bugaboo is mentioned on this thread yet. The catalog page is from I believe 1966 Ski Hut catalog. I have not seen these Extra Thin Bugaboos listed in the Chouinard catalogs but here in this catalog it has its own item number. Chouinard Pitons item "G"

What is weird is that the Chouinard catalogs only list that Chouinard created 2 Knifeblades and 2 Bugaboo sizes from 1965 to 1971. The Bugaboo Medium and Thick sizes were not available until mid 1971 and have two holes on each piton. So how is it that the Ski Hut 1966 catalog is advertising Chouinard Medium Bugaboos for sale when they were not created by Chouinard until 5 years later?




Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 19, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
Marty! Woohoo! Another bolt from the blue! I've got a few of what I thought were old Chouinard Short Thin Knifeblades & Heidi has a good-quality Caliper.


I note: the Short Thin Knifeblades in your Ski Hut catalog scan were listed as:
1 1/2" long, 1/8" (= 0.125") thick, & 1 1/OZ.

The Extra Thin Bugaboos were listed as 1 1/2" long, .025" - .080" thick, & 1 1/2 OZ.

I'll be measuring tomorrow, in the cruel light of day, under 7-X magnification.

One note, to others that want to play this game. Chouinard added a second hole to his Knifeblades & Bugaboos in 1972, per his catalog copy. Marty's challege applies only to pre-1972 one-hole Knifeblades.



Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 20, 2017 - 08:47am PT
to my slight distress, I find I currently own 11 pre-1972 Chouinard Short-Thin Knifeblades & 3 of those are now re-defined a Extra-Thin Bugaboos.

Here's the collection:


Here's how they break-down. Heidi's caliper only gives me fractions of inch measurement & I rounded measuremnts to the nearest 32nd of an inch.


In the Ski Hut catalog copy, they show criteria for the Extra Thin Bugaboo to be .025" to .080" blade thickness. That would be thickness just before the eye, which is the last useable thickness, when driven into a crack. Also the length figure is blade length to the eye.

Converting decimal inches to fractions, the range for Extra Thin Bugaboos is about:
.031" = 1/32"
.0625" = 1/16"
.078" = 5/64"

I have three that qualify at 1/16" thick.


karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2017 - 09:07am PT


Fritz, Very nice breakdown. My thought is that since the item is a thin Bugaboo the back end still has to measure 1/8. But from the eye to the tip of the blade it is squished down to measure .025" .080" blade thickness. .....The one I have looks hammered on both sides of the blade to give it its thin appearance. Yours also look hammered on both sides.

The second question is where is the Chouinard proof that medium Bugaboos were being produced prior to 1971? The 1966 Ski Hut catalog lists two medium Bugaboo sizes available that were not produced till 5 years later. Hmmmmmm. Maybe Chouinard produced 4 sizes of Bugaboos when he first came out of the Army in 1963/64 time. Maybe then he dropped the medium Bugaboo size completely and by the first 1965 Chouinard catalog, it only lists the thin Bugaboos. Ski Hut continued to sell off the overstock Chouinard and LONGware.

I know on previous posts on this thread I list that there were Medium Bugaboos produced in 1966, but that proof came from the Ski Hut catalog, not from Chouinard catalogs.

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