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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 10, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Good luck Dean, be safe.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 10, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
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Ron
Also as Crag has mentioned the gullys have been melted out entirely. More moving rock exposed and possibly harder to negotiate Excellent point. I ran directly into this problem last week in the Tetons. Loose rock and gravel was a major obstacle on normally steep but otherwise straightforward snow approaches. Requiring significant extra caution and effort.
I'm also leaning towards the Cecile Lake - SE Ritter traverse. Looks deceptively easy.
Good luck to the searchers and stay safe out there.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Aug 10, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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I summited Ritter on Wednesday, August 7th from the westside. We came in from hemlock crossing, stayed close to Stevenson meadow, and approached through Ritter lakes. The snow was minimal on the western slope, but all the north facing slopes were packed with steep, wind blown snow. Unfortunately I didn't pay too much attention to the register, two parties summited on Aug 5th but neither were Matt. Wish I had taken a better look and hope he is found soon.
Regards,
Justin
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 10, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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after re-reading the entire thread
and considering Matt's decision to take
axe
crampons
mountain boots
Also, Matt climbed Clyde Minaret on July 11, 6 days before he went missing so he had some familiarity with conditions in the region.
Yet he specifically took tools for climbing steep hard snow or ice.
Therefore he was very likely intent on a snow/ice climb.
Matt also has a lot of experience in the backcountry and on long hikes. A 30 mile day would be nothing for Matt to consider. He would feel comfortable doing most solo hikes/climbs in the park and surrounding areas. This would put him within a day's round trip reach of any of the Minarets, Ritter and Banner.
But given what he carried, the rock routes would be unlikely.
From Cragman's photo yesterday, I would think that the three routes on the North face of the Clyde Minaret would still require a snow/ice approach.
I have traversed the ice field below them, it's a spectacular and exposed location.
They are all 4th class and I believe they are seldom done. Left to right they are
Starr's Route (historical significance)
Rock Route (still requires ice field approach)
Glacier Route (Norma Clyde), only 1 4th class move.
(Secor, 3d edition, page 380 with excellent photo on P381)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 10, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
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I know it sounds crazy, but could he have gotten a ride/shuttle/hitched to north peak/Dana?
With his car in a garage, how long was the work going to take to fix it? I would be gone as many days as it would take, 3-day job etc. just ideas.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Aug 10, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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When i had my head gasket done it took three days. Yes, it was a subi.
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TeddyKGBee
Trad climber
Chester Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Hi-
Local search group is out there now. Got a question about Michael Minaret. Has anyone been out there recently or is planning to go? Also, any beta on a likely route that would require snow tools?
Thanks,
Tom
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 10, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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Tom,
See my note above ^^^^
Three routes on N Side of Clyde would require ice tools.
If you meant on the Michael Minaret, I don't know.
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TeddyKGBee
Trad climber
Chester Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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Thank you Cragman- I will let the team know. Did you talk with Jill?
Thanks,
Tom
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TeddyKGBee
Trad climber
Chester Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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Yes, sorry. I was referring to Michael Minaret. I passed along your suggestions to the team.
Tom
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TeddyKGBee
Trad climber
Chester Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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Details on Guidebook:
Secor 3 rd edition pages 369 to 398
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Aug 10, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Good luck Dean and all of you who are giving so much time and effort to a fellow climber.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 10, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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Good luck Dean and Doug!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Wishes-He-Was-In-Arizona
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Aug 10, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
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Good luck Dean
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TeddyKGBee
Trad climber
Chester Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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Dean- Thank you so much. Just heard from Jill and she mentioned that you talked. Best of luck, but most importantly, please be safe. You're (and Doug)truly a great person for doing this.
Tom
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Aug 10, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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cragman you've much high and dramatic country
within your kind sights.
may your spirits soar,
and your lungs fill readily.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 10, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Best of luck men.
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han
climber
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Aug 11, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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Good luck Dean and Doug. Please be safe!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Aug 11, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Cragman,
May HaShem keep you and guide you.
May the family and friends of Matt find Shalom.
(Post 333, its a good sign.)
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Aug 11, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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Hoping for the best outcome and admiration for team crag and Doug.
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