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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
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"Nella parete Nord delle Grandes Jorasses", an article by Riccardo Cassin in Le Alpi 1939-40-XVIII, one year after his and G. Esposito's First Ascent of The Walker.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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What can I say? I was honored to get a chance for that mountain, to experience such greatness and beauty. I was honored to climb it with such great souls! It is good that places of such tremendous beauty behold terror, beauty and joy all together. That they have power beyond our being. They demand big dreams and hard effort. And it is only coherent when they behold big myths. It is in those places where we can touch our souls and add mystery to life.
For life nearly may have ended here for some, but it was also here that great myth was born, -and who knows how many souls got aroused by it .....
http://www.tanja-schmitt.com/news/les-grandes-jorasses/
Tanja Schmitt |
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 08:12am PT
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Les Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc
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Degaine
climber
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Nov 26, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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A whole cornucopia of summits to see from this 3900m-high perch.
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 26, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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That last photo is terrific. What a playground! Dollars spent per vertical foot climbed in superb conditions, (70's), on stellar rock is unmatched anywhere. I made it one summer and autumn on 700USD. 70's. Love those telepheriques. And then the skiing...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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Le massif du Mont Blanc, Grandes Jorasses, Aiguille du Géant etc
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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Grandes Jorasses - Face Nord - Pointe Young - Rêve éphémère d'alpiniste
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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The Reasons Behind The Alps' Incredible Season Of Alpine Climbing
It’s been an incredible autumn here in the Alps, where we’ve enjoyed almost unprecedented conditions on major north faces. The Grandes Jorasses in particular saw more ascents than it probably has done in the last 5 years combined, with up to 30 teams climbing the face on any single day. We decided to get the expert take on why conditions were so good and caught up with British guide and alpinist Jon Bracey
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Degaine
climber
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Because it's impossible to tire of photos of the Grandes Jorasses:
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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I'm fortunate to have climbed the Walker Spur back in 1975, when I was a lot younger, with John Bouchard. I had got slammed by a sudden storm one week earlier, and my partner and I had to retreat from over half way up. It was touch and go for a while, as we escaped off.
Then a week later Bouchard asked me if I wanted another go at it. We got hit on the last pitch by a really bad storm, which nearly killed Bouchard, as he was hit by lightning, along with Voytech Kurtyka.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Man, those vids posted by Marlow are eye opening.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2016 - 09:46am PT
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La Trilogie Hivernale - Jorasses / Eiger / Cervin - Christophe Profit (1987)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 15, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
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Bradford Washburn was one of the greatest photographers of them all (not to mention an inspirational climber and warm human being). Brad's favorite photo of all was the aerial shot he took of the north face Les Granges Jorasses in August, 1958. The flight was out of the famous airfield in Sion , Switzerland.
donini has the same signed print.
In August of 1968 I took a predawn flight out of Sion that flew by the north face of the Matterhorn as it was bathed in alpenglow. The shadow of the plane crossed the face, and we landed on the glacier on Monta Rosa and skied and scrambled and descended to Zermatt where we partied half the night.
I was 14 and finally I knew what I wanted to do.
Nearly 2 decades later I made friends with Brad at an AAC meeting and he told me about the flight.
A beautiful mountain, but I wouldn't want to climb it. There were the stories of Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazaud, or even my old acquaintance Matt.
Matt was high on the Walker Spur on a crowded day when an asshat climber plowed by him and even started yarding on his partner's lead rope nearly pulling Matt's partner off. This shltheel pulls off a big rock that Matt has to duck, and then watch in horror as the rock hits a team below causing them to fall to their deaths.
BTW Brad had a huge print of that photo in his office in Boston.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 15, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
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those vids posted by Marlow are eye opening If only the sound track wasn't so inane and the lens distortion so extreme
on the ultra-lite one, but it was still cool. ;-)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 26, 2016 - 08:22am PT
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Vive Les Jorasses!
Neige fraiche en cette août!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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Les Grandes Jorasses on old postcards
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 26, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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In comparison with Marlow's last pic ...the dotted line is the glacier's level in 1820 when it
was over 100 meters higher!
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