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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 11, 2012 - 10:22am PT
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Frogs emerging from lightening bolts - now that's something you just can't plan for.
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bob
climber
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Jun 11, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Frogs from lightning bolts sounds something like dust balls under a bed turning to spiders.
Way to KEEP getting after it Mark!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 11, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Great video! Nothing like a bit of on site gear testing...
Didn't it actually rain Frogs on the first ascent of Lunar Eclipse?
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 11, 2012 - 10:41am PT
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Mark - hope you post up on your next adventure as well. These TRs are the best!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 11, 2012 - 11:11am PT
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No doubt, great reality tv show for those of us who can't be out climbing.
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youri
climber
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Jun 11, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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About the tainting of your ascent with a thrown rope: Climbing is such a special game in that regard. You sometimes prepare for months for a wall and even years to try a bigger project. And then you put your energy toward the actual materialization of the ascent. It is so much fun to meet some challenge then. But it takes so little to make it too much and ruin the realization of the climb. That sometimes happens at the very begging of the adventure and then it ruins much of the adventure!!
You took a good decision: you respected your limit by not climbing the moves that did not feel right. But also you seem to have been at 100% in your efforts before deciding to taint your ascent. And you were lucky that it happened where you had the opportunity to still top out your project... Kind of the same game Alex Honnold got when free soloing the RNWF of HD. He tainted his ascent by putting a finger in a biner while doing a move hoping that if his foot slipped, he could grab the biner and save his life. But still he topped out safely and had a rad experience.
Climbing is full of controversies. All the purists go to hell. You did not drill an additional bolt: all the best. You climbed Iron Hawk solo in my book. To me, "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!". I hope you had a lot of fun and you "reap the rewards of an ascent well managed and climbed". Dam you are Mark Hudon ! ;-)
Your style is energizing ! Keep it up !
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 11, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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Wow - just back from four days in the Tetons and haven't been on the taco.
Will have to go look at Tom's reports, but this thread is gripping.
Way to get after it Mark. Best decision ever. PSYCHED to hear you are back down on terra firm - at least for a few days until you head up on the Straw.
Have fun, be safe!!
Paul
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John M
climber
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Jun 11, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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that I had essentially failed
I can't figure out for the life of me how your climb could be called a failure. You got out there and went after it. Even if you didn't technically finish the route in perfect style, so what. Is climbing only about who ticked what route? I don't think so.
What you did was bold and beautiful and inspiring, and I don't give a sh#t if you had to call for some help right at the end. Isn't that how life goes? Has anyone ever gotten through life without some help somewhere. You made a wise decision. Live to play another day. Your climb was still bold and beautiful and inspiring and hella fun to read about. Lots of us were rooting for you. Thanks for taking us along.
This was no failure.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 11, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Well said John M ... from another John M!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 11, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Alex Honnold put his finger in a biner while soloing Half Dome?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Sh#t Mark. The truth is that 99 % of the rest of us would be happy to accomplish 1/10th of what you have already. That you are so driven is what makes you Mark Hudon: badass™ ™ ™. Great report.
Warm regards
ps, nice web site, thanks for that too: http://www.hudonpanos.com/
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Okay, I'll go for that and I'll apologize to Skully for talking poorly of him.
I'll delete my relevant posts and it would be great if everyone else would do the same.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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My fingers are peeling and still swollen and sore. The rest of my body, although looking like hell, is not feeling too poorly.
I have to speed heal the hands for Shortest Straw next week.
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DJT
Trad climber
Hood River
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Good job Mark. I like the earlier post about a new coffee blend called "a little common sense" or some such. See you at the picnic in HR.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Geez, I shoulda worn the galoshes.
Calling for a rescue sounds like the right decision. You weren't gonna lead that pitch, and din't want to rap to the ground. And those were the only other options. Good job for trying man...
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
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Bravo, Mark. What a magnificent effort culminating in a dramatic twist of events that led to a superb (and clearly difficult) choice highlighting your wisdom.
You are truly a badass whose actions we all learn from, are inspired by, and can't wait to see more of!
Best of luck on your encore climb!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
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Seems to me you climbed (lead) way more of that route than most people who have climbed the route. You also jugged more of it too. :)
But damn.. I guess you would not be BADASS MARK HUDON if you were not driven to perfection.
A. SOLO lead, clean and haul the whole freaking thing
B. Clean it Up
C. Improve some anchors (nah that didnt take anything out of your hands)
D. Post it all while on route.
Well damn Ya missed out on leading the potential death pitches. FAIL..
Yeah I suppose it wasn't a complete solo..Yeah I suppose it had "outside" help which is different than jugging the lead line on a normal 2 person ascent.
I KNOW you are disappointed to get so close to a perfect ascent. Jeez that many days soloing just tends to wear on the mind so many ways.. It's a harsh trip just for that.
But I hope you are basically happy. I hope deep down there is some real satisfaction in what WAS accomplished. We sure are with what you did.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jun 11, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Mark, huge congratulations to you for a fantastic voyage and an amazing job. You are such an inspiration to me.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 11, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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Mark,
Do you wear full fingered gloves for cleaning? I've found that while jugging and cleaning is when my hands get the most abuse. The full fingered gloves really help. I use the madrock wall gloves... There is a review of them on this site.
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Glove-Reviews/Mad-Rock-Wall-Glove
Best pair of gloves I've ever purchased!
Cheers
John
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 11, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Perfect post.. Thought of that more than a few times reading this thread.
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