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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Sep 22, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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Damn... no where near there... maybe Anders will take him on :)
Pere nothing to say?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 22, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Good point J-tree. I probably should stop posting while drunk. Fixed...
No Pere, though? Perhaps he finally made good on his promise to abscond from this thread...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Sep 23, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Alrighty then... last pics. We'll start with some final gear pics.
This is even blanker than the section Pelut "mini-bolted," called "the wall." So, why drilled bashies here instead of mini bolts?
Oh, right, because THIS is an anchor. So it's just GOT to be "heroic" (read: idiotic). If you're going to drill massive holes like this, WHY not fill them with something sustainable (and safe, since THIS is just fake "difficulty")?
Moving on to the wooden peg tactic (in some of its various permutations)....
With the saw marks still plainly visible on the wall 2 years after the FA, we see just one version of the wooden peg tactic Pelut used. Not sure what he did here, as there is no sign of a piton being driven in alongside. My guess is he slung it, because this one was BURIED (unlike some of them).
The (I guess) typical tactic: Big hole, wooden peg, soft-iron piton. Wow... sporty! Note the excellent small pecker just below.
So, what were the "mini bolts?" Here's examples....
Okayyyy... my only question is: Why these here instead of drilled bashies? And the correlative question: Why drilled bashies on most of the blank rock instead of "mini bolts?"
Now to a couple of fun pics of my own placements....
Remember these? Ahh, my set of rollers is near and dear to my heart! These make great placements where nothing else will. I don't know what the story is with this hole. It looks drilled out, but not like any of their other holes. And its pretty flared in two dimensions. Locker roller placement, though.
Second-to-the-last pitch (A1/A2). It gets WIDE in spots, but turnbuckle to the rescue. LOL. Cheap, and infinitely adjustable, and perfect for wide and flared stuff like this. Look closely, and you can see the hole drilled into the back of the crack. More drill work on this pitch by the FA team, although it takes locker stoppers and cams almost the whole way.
Far below, note the red slings. Those are where the wedge/piton combo and my good pecker are.
By taking my own line near to but often not ON the FA line, I was able to bypass a lot of drilling by using small, discontinuous features like this one. That seam is really small, but it took 1/8-inch of a pecker tip. Can't tell by this pic, but it's steep/overhung through this part. Dangling from that tip was "fun" while looking at a 30-footer onto a couple of their "mini bolts."
I tried and tried to beat it in farther... must have hit it 151 times, but it just wouldn't go in any more (just kidding). :-)
Finally, another little tip I got to work in a small seam the FA team never saw. Of course, you can't make something this bottomed work by beating on it 52 times, and if you just blow out the surrounding rock, you get nothing! (Note the small flake-off next to it, even as gentle as I was!)
I'll end with just a few pics of the me and the summit....
Partway up (my numbers) P3. Those "fishing glasses" are the bomb for the Fishers. Wrap-around, polycarbonate lenses (polarized, of course), and the special touch for old farts: small "reading lenses" as sort of "bifocals" where you look down. Must-have for older eyes. :-)
What a gorgeous place! How anyone could come here with a heavy-handed mentality is beyond me!
Glad to be done with it! Wow, I'm getting old, and you can see why I don't grow a beard! Scary!!!
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un de tants
climber
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Sep 24, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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ey gente,miraros tambien estas fotitos,estan chulas...
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un de tants
climber
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Sep 24, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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primer largo despues de pasar richi,quien taladra para poner cooper heads y dejarlos??
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 24, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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So, very tiny "enhancements" meant fewer bolts/rivets.
These "enhancements" are not (to my mind, and to the minds of many) full-on "holes" because they BARELY "penetrate" the surface of the rock. They simply make an existing flake "good enough" to work to keep the run-out going. You are still using EXISTING features of the ROCK, and the goal is STILL to CONFORM to what the rock presents and embrace the risk that such conformity entails.
I love how his sh#t is all huge and heinous and blown out and yours is all
"mini" bolts and "micro" enhancements.
Exactly how is micro "enhancing" conforming to what the rock gives you?
That's kinda like saying "Those whores gave it to the whole football team, but we only gave it to the running backs, and even then only the tip."
Dude, you're so pure.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
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What's all that mean in English? No offense meant, my Spanish is spotty.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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Bombproof belays?
I am bring wood spikes on my next FA.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Hey Richard, just a question from a guy who does very little aid climbing these days. . Wouldn't a pink tricam work in your 2-D rollerball placement?
(I've done enough aid climbing in the Fishers to know that I don't want to go anywhere near a discussion that involves hooking on Cutler sandstone, but I always found the pink tricam to be incredibly helpful in the damaged, flared placements that are so common there.)
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