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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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i thought i recalled you saying you had done UP. that would be harder than most of the above from my recollections...
edit: i recall 'i would die for you' having a dif move off the ground for sure.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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I have done U.P. but the others stood out and seemed to take the most effort for me. Heck, maybe I'm wrong but that's what I came up with. There's so much more that I HAVEN'T done than what I've accomplished.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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To tell you the truth on IWDFY...I was there by myself in the early eighties when I got really lucky to hit the right holds on that thing and topped out. Nobody was there to witness it and I've never repeated it since, but I know what happened that day. I had no idea what it was nor what it was rated at the time.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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U.P harder than M.S.? than D.S.? than I.H.M.T.? than I.W.D.F.Y.?
Am I missing something?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Uncertainty is swank for sure, but in the big picture of Woodson stuff it's a hike. I Would Die For You was considered way damn hard in the mid-80's. Don't know where it is in the pecking order these days.
I can come up with a "Hardest 5" list circa 1989, but don't what all's been done since then. Of course, the hardest 5 for me. Everybody's got their own strengths and weaknesses up there. 5 climbs that I know took me 10 - 20 tries, often over a few days, back when I had my Woodson hone on, in no particular order:
1. Head First In The Bushes
2. Lie Detector
3. VP's Office
4. Starving In Stereo
5. Some f*#ked-up Chossy Piece-Of-Sh#t mantle that Ron and Rick liked to warm up on. I only did it for the beer.
As with all things Woodson, once you've done 'em once you get 'em wired and all of a sudden they're easy. But I know those five had to get projected to the point I was drawing move topo's for 'em.
Have not found a single thing on the internet about any "Park" designations for Woodson -- definately nothing that involves designation of a "Park Boundary" -- but I'm almost positive that the County owns the land. A little project for tommorrow. Usually you can get yourself pointed in the right direction with a phone call or two.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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i only top roped uncertainly principle a couple of times around the time of, or leading up to the 86 contest. we did most those others about every time we went up there. and my train, calif night & drivin south since early on. mother superior was obviously much more strenuous but got easier over time it seems. i haven't done any of them since the early nineties so i could be way off. the last things i worked on and got were starving in stereo, airstream, and silk banana. the last few years after that i would mainly go up alone and do only things that i felt safe soloing such as robbins, airplane crack, monkey crack, etc. plus many of the short/low harder boulder problems like if i could die for you and silk banana. allot of the harder stuff we worked on for ages it seemed like before we got it wired. and it is hard to compare one to another since allot of the others i get confused with which was what. i haven't seen my last guide to the area in twenty years. that is one of the reasons i asked what were the hardest five problems considered to be now. not that i have done any of them, just curious. i first started bouldering there in '71.
edit: never got around to dropping a rope down from the top of robbins to have a go at lie detector. i did watch r.k. do it at the '86 contest. wish i would have tried it. the upper hands/finger crack looked fun anyway. i did do 5.10 on the outside a few times. found it rather humorous that it had c.g. stymied during the '86 contest.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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As you now know Bob, these kids are in another league of their own these days. There's some stuff done up there on the mountain that, from a rating standpoint are a full grade and harder than anything that was rated b.i.t.d. up there. Chris Lindner, and other big names have apparently done some things that haven't really been talked about, even in the 5.14 arena, per Dan Bealle. I've mentioned before that Chris did a sit-start to IHMT, and I'm still wondering what a consenses would be for that! I was flabbergassed when he on sighted it the day before the shindig! You know that overhanging rail problem by Shawn's Knobs with no name? Instead of throwing out to the lip out right, Chris tilted his head backward and threw, all points off and hit the apex, the furthest point behind him, with one hand, then finished there as an alternate ending! Heck, the kid did a sit start to Retropulsion!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Do you have any pictures from the '86 contest splitter? And, btw, who are you?
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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i have very few pics of climbing period. i don't think i brought a camera to the '86 event. but i may have since i do recall owning one about then. all of my stuff is in storage, but i will have to search it soon.
edit: killer, u.p.^^^.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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5.10a On The Outside was my last tick on my scorecard in the '86 contest!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Beautiful picture Adam.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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The Woodson guru bvb said: As with all things Woodson, once you've done 'em once you get 'em wired and all of a sudden they're easy. But I know those five had to get projected to the point I was drawing move topo's for 'em.
Personal experience has shown me there is truth to that, but only up to a point. I've been back to some projects that seemed fairly straight forward when I finally did them, only to find they were much, much harder than I remembered. And I didn't wait an excessive amount of time to go back to them. Maybe it's just my advanced age or something, don't know. One of the things that seems most problematic is keeping the desire high enough after I've done something that is close to my personal limit. When working those projects one gets things really down (as in wired), plus, you really want to do it. Want doesn't seem to be something I can just turn on at will anymore. Bummer.
The top 5 or 10 in difficulty? Don't know, way too many variables. I suspect some of the Beall and Lindner stuff would be right up there though. But I can't say for sure because I haven't done them. Seems to me the only way to get a somewhat accurate ordering would be to do all the candidate problems. Even then it would still have bias because of personal abilities, strengths, and preferences.
So, I have a brilliant plan. Since we can't seem to get away from wanting to quantify and rank, we need to compile a list of the top 50 or so candiate problems, have someone do them all, and then report back to us. I also suspect there are problems that are sleepers, that are much harder than they're rated for whatever the reason(s), so we can't just go on given ratings. Since we don't know for sure which problems those are, maybe we should have our person do the top 100 candidates instead. To eliminate as many variables as we can, we'll have that person do all the problems in the same week-end (similar weather conditions, similar mental/physical attitude.) I nominate bvb. Whad'ya think, any seconds on that nomination? Sounds like a plan to me.
Nice picture of Uncertainty.
bvb, what was the problem with the background cropped out of it? (Sorry if you already posted the name and I missed it)
Here's an absolute dead give-away:
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Starving in Stereo?
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Starving in Stereo^^^!
Definately Starving in Stereo!!
edit: spent two winters workin' that suckah.
i second the motion..therefore bvb is elected.
i cud prollie still solo robbins..but wud most likley sh#t me shorts, pitch and die downclimbin it..good way to die tho.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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Oh yeah. As I said, a dead give-away. Pretty attractive/classic Woodson crack for sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Yep, that's Starving all right.
Henny, I'll post an uncropped photo of that problem. Someone will get it in about 90 nanoseconds.
Oh HELL YEAH, I'll go do those top 100 candidate problems! OK if I finish my coffee first? Temps are purrrrrfect today. Sunny, cool, low humidity.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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hey hennie..do you recall a dood by the name of jonathan spurgeon? from woodson.suicide.joshtree bitd(88->)?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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Take your time bvb, if you don't wait toooooo long you probably even have time for a second cup. Just don't over amp.
90 nanoseconds? That picture annoys me, looks like something I should know but can't place. Don't throw a name out yet, lets see who knows...
Splitter, the name does sound familiar but I can't seem to put a face to it.
I was going to go with this picture initially, but then decided the more complete picture was more aesthetic. Is it just me, or do the crux moves have bite to them?
ok, a couple more:
One easy -
One not so easy (hints: big, and before the preceeding one on the way up) -
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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That first photo, California Night, is one of my faves. You'll never stump us on a crack Henny but all those 5.11c microedging problems look the same...
That photo I posted should bother you! It's a really fun edging problem, just high enough to be interesting, on what is literally some of the best rock up on Woodson. You'd hike it, like it, and go "wow, that's a good one..."
Is the second photo Retropulsion, or maybe Eppulator?
EDIT: Waitaminnit. That first photo is looking less and less lke Kali Knight now...oh, repost of Starving. Duh. Yup, Starving can be a grinder. I always taped up for it.
2nd EDIT: Last photo, the face: Laker Girls, downhill from GWTF?
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