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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 11, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
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Bump.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 24, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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Wolf Creek Road. Saw it a few times but most routes were out of my leauge.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Ron, I know several people that work for alpine county public works ( road dept) and they assure me they had nothing to do with it. One is also native american and knows nothing of that place being sacred to anyone. they did however move some large boulders to the base to keep people from parking there. Brian Peters is the cheese at the road dept and my neighbor he's a good guy but if you ask him permission to start installing bolts in a boulder that's in the countys right of way i think the obvious answer would be no.That being said I say yes bolting for nostalgic purposes is in order when do we start? We need a gym out here. Kennyt
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 29, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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We should get some beer and a bunch of guys out there and get it done. We could talk rap bolting,retro,bolting, too many bolts, not enough bolts,bouldering pads whatever. The damage has already been done to that chunk of choss whats a few shiny bolts gonna hurt? the place is actually kinda cool.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 29, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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The Golden age of Markleeville hasn't even happened yet
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Jon Taylor
Trad climber
Gardnerville
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Wave Rider not sure when, late 70s/early 80s by the look of the Strawberry Mt. Chalkbag
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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This Thread is great.... many response's and historical beta.... I was about 4 years behind these innovators but had great drama on all of their achievements. Thanks to all of the Tahoe Achiever's.
The first time I did Cannonball Gully at Donner I froze my arse off and anxiety almost took the best of me and in 78', some local (in Shorts) comes free soloing past us....Life goes on.
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Oct 29, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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worthy thread Ron.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 30, 2013 - 02:53am PT
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Sorry I missed ur post about Blitzo.
I did a bunch of his (with others) routes at Echo Lakes.
Before I met him. And I still like the slithering slit.
BlitZo was all about Tahoe.
All the rtes put up at Echo were by studs!
I wonder what the Collins Brothers are up to?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 30, 2013 - 03:19am PT
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Yea! I think al dude is swimming around down here in the desert somewhere?
Blitzo was jus singing me some of Al's love songs. Seems like yesterday....
But I guess it was last year. God I miss you Billie! Sucks ur not here
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Aug 31, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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To quote an old Babylonian proverb.....sort of...
The gods do not deduct from mans allotted time the hours spent climbing.
Drove by thing the other day on I 80
What a kick ass looking line and great photo.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 24, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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Good thread worth bumping.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 24, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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Hudson and Jones hands down.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 24, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
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Or maybe Price for Grand Illusion alone
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 24, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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some prime ball cupping
LOL, yea, i'd rather talk about good climbs than other men who like to get out and climb a ton. My toast to them for putting in time and work in putting up new routes, but most did it for their own fun. Not because they cared because all of us. If they did they wouldn't sandbag and would bolt more often! :)
How about picking the best climb in Tahoe for
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10a
5.10b
5.10c
5.10d
5.11a
5.11b etc
With crowds not being included as a turn off.
Like if you had a visitor from Canada and you could have him do one of those, what would it be? Is there a better 5.7 than Corrugation Corner? Would you choose the Line, Traveler's Buttress, Fear of Flying, Nova Express or something completely different for a 5.9? Is Space walk the best 5.11c in Tahoe? Is One of these days at Woodfords better than Hospital Corner?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 24, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Lovers Chimney would be hard to beat for the best 5.5.
Exposure, enclosure, good pro, route finding, a good combination of clean rock and dirt to add to the experience. It takes a variety of gear and skills and can give you a taste of most everything you will ever encounter throughout your climbing career. Hard to beat for the grade.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 24, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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I have not climbed much in Tahoe, but here is my little list for Tahoe for now:
5.7 Corrugation Corner
5.8 Haystack
5.9 Scimitar, Eagle Buttress, Traveler's Buttress or The Line at LL, or maybe Nova Express or Fear of Flying. If I had to choose one to take someone outside CA on I would pick the Line probably due to solid granite, sustained climbing, and INCREDIBLE line.
5.10a Hospital Corner
5.10b Surrealistic Pillar Direct
5.10c Candyland
5.10d The Fracture at Sugarloaf
5.11a War of the Walls on Calaveras dome with a 5.11a start variation
5.11b Silk Road on Calaveras Dome
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 24, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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When I did WOTW on Calaveras I linked first 2 pitches (freaking amazing) but took the fingercrack variation. I think the climb is a better candidate for a 10c than 11a since it is more sustained at 5.10. But I have not done any 11a climbs in Tahoe area that I could take anyone on and be proud, so I had to use that to fill up the blank in my list :)
5.8 in Tahoe area is pretty lame, I agree. Well at least ones I have done. Pony Express? Meh Test Piece? 25 ft and not even in Tahoe. Haystack, I guess is pretty cool. Can't come up with anything else that would be a good addition to the list. But again at that grade.
How about more 10d-11a climbs?
I heard North Face at LL is a really good one, and 10ds at Donner WML mentioned are supposed to be really good. You guys should move V8 crack from Cardinal Pinnacle to Tahoe. Would be a nice fit :)
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Jan 15, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
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Oooh... are we listing our favorite routes in Tahoe?
I lived there for almost 8 years, and learned to climb while there.
Faves (led them all, either onsight or eventual redpoint):
* The Line (5.9 Lovers)
* Fantasia (5.9 Lovers)
* Mainline (5.11 Lovers)
* Farley (5.9 Sugarloaf)
* The Fracture (10d Sugarloaf)
* Black September (5.9? Donner)
* One Hand Clapping (5.don't remember Donner)
* Farewell to Arms (5.10b Donner)
* Ariel (5.11a Donner)
* Brain Child (5.12b Donner)
* Imaginary Voyage (5.various Donner)
* Warp Factor (5.13a Donner - my first, and one of only two 13's redpoint)
* Space Truckin' (5.10a Eagle Lake)
* Quest for Glory (5.10d Eagle Lake - this is the closest I ever came to getting f**cked up while climbing in Tahoe)
* Buster Brown (5.10b Eagle Lakes)
* Candy Land (5.10c Phantom Spires)
* Space Invaders (5.12a Echo View area)
I could list so many more. I really miss the wide variety. Now I live in Vegas and it's sandstone all the time. Crimp and step up. Crimp and step up. Ok, well actually there's a little more movement variety than that. Slightly... :-)
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