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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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DMT,
I just know that there were a lot of falls on both the FA and SA. How many were caused by breaking the placements? It only takes one, ya know.
It is just that hooks wear on the rock. They put a lot of pressure on a tiny point. From the talk of all the whippers Ammon took, I wonder how many were due to ripping off hook placements, and how it might have gotten harder. I am sure you have seen hook moves that have gotten dished out by a lot of travel.
A route like WOS might only be able to stand a small number of repeats. No kidding. If it is hooking little crystals, some are gonna blow.
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squishy
Mountain climber
Sac town
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just bring some tin foil up there and make some time bombs, gawd you guys have small balls, ammon is the sh#t...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dead Bears Don't Wear Plaid
oh, sorry! wrong thread,..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A route like WOS might only be able to stand a small number of repeats. No kidding. If it is hooking little crystals, some are gonna blow.
By all accounts, the same might be said about most routes on El Capitan. The rock on them is in considerably different physical condition than on the first ascent. The Shield being perhaps the poster child.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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The Spy Who Sh#t On Me
The Chronicles of El Capitan: The Crying, The Bitch, and the ButtLoad.
Meet the Shitters
Crap Away
How to Train Your Anus
3 Men and a Dukey
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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By all accounts, the same might be said about most routes on El Capitan. The rock on them is in considerably different physical condition than on the first ascent. The Shield being perhaps the poster child.
That is not what I mean, MH. Sure, the Shield got the crap beaten out of it, but breaking off hooking features leads directly to new holes. The more repeats, the more holes.
Not really a judgment on the route, just a guess.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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I just noticed this little gem, written by Duane Raleigh for Rock and Ice.
http://rockandice.com/component/content/article/37-tnb/1519-tnb-slander-slabs
Also interesting, Jeff Vargen mentioned that an interview for the film took place with someone "in disguise" who answered one of the route's longest standing questions. I wonder what that might be.
Further, some incredibly handsome devil with a penchant for victorian era swag just contributed $25.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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I also read the book recently, and it really is quite good. Not sure what I was expecting, but it's a quick and fascinating tale of an epic climb. Worth every penny of the 97 cents it ran me on Amazon.com.
And the forward by Warren Harding is CLASSIC!
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Hummerchine, I'm looking at the foreword, and I realize I missed out on this particular bit of history. Who was Warren J. Harding? How does he fit into all of this?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Wings Of Repetition.
Wings Of Dead Horse.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Somebody shoot that ignorant Dweeb.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Harding "dated" Richard's mom a couple of years after the WOS FA. And for a couple of years as well. As you all know, Harding was really losing it horribly at the end. Richard and Mark did not know Harding before then, so Harding did not have any direct personal influence on their Harding-like ascent.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Harding "dated" Richard's mom a couple of years after the WOS FA. And for a couple of years as well.
It took 2934 posts before we finally get to the gud stuff?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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The most unused wall hammer in the world, courtesy of fatty.
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squishy
Mountain climber
Sac town
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"Slander Slabs"
? totally ghey, we can come up with way better names for your articles...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Beer Can Flew Over the Hook Crew's Nest
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Riley posted this in the car wreck thread. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1599262&msg=1604244#msg1604244
Is it a parable for this thread?
When we were 20 or 21 my best friend literally saved up pennies and tips from his bartender job and paid cash for a really nice 14,000 dollar jeep.
After a period of time he put it in at the local Chrysler Dealer for a tune up. During the tune up they dropped it off the lift and dented in his quarter panel. They fixed it but the color didn't match.
My friend has a heart of gold and is quite honestly the kindest and best person I have ever known. But he had lost his father to cancer at 18, so among everything else a "nice guy" has brewing from his childhood, he had some serious scores to settle with the world. He took out his revenge on the world as head bouncer at the largest bar in the city. He had fought practically every night for a few years and probably every soul in the city new the guy. He was tenacious, angry and tuff but my bro was still a fair guy. He tried to work it out but when the owner told my friend that "him and his jeep could go f*#k themselves" he went to war.
My Dad still brings up my crazy best friend and remembers him driving all over town with big signs, on the side of his jeep, telling everyone to not buy from the dealership. He picketed the place and organized many other people to picket the place. Hundreds of friends joined in on the campaign to destroy this man and his dealership, they waited outside, told people not to buy the cars, ruined sales, told everyone who walked by what had occured and blocked up sh#t with all their vehicles. It turned into a place folks would stop off at in-between partys.
I don't remember how long the thing went on but neither man ever relented. The guy was put out of business within a year and my friend ended up with a crushed knee when someone rolled a car down the road, pinning him against another car, while he stood with his sign...lol..
Jeep never go fixed..
No moral..
I suppose sometimes the fix it job is good enough and sometimes it aint...
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