Arizona Climbing Appreciation thread

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pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
Or the Barefoot Man himself:

Sorry for the theft Mr. D. Too good a shot not to be in this thread.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Awesome Forks shots. I love that place.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
And the list goes on....
(someday I'll actually scan my own slides)
I'm obviously missing some of my most important partners, these images are all just from borrowed scans...

Larry on the first day on Dresdoom, leading the second pitch:
(first time, he went way right, second time, I went way left, much later I did the blue ribbon exit going straight up.) Larry and I put a fair amount of work into doing this climb in what we felt was a safe manner (we'd come back with different gear to make slots and slings.) Nowdays, I'd say it probably needs about 3 bolts to make it more of classic. 3 bolts would probably still leave some good shrivel factor.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
Closing the day out with just a so so shot but of one my all time favorite climbs, The Prow (no, not that one), this is at the Overlook. This may be in the closed off area but it's far enough away from the Monkey Cages that it shouldn't be verboten.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 22, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
Ah... saw this one and just had to continue.
That guy above with the camera my sue me for this but it's just too beautiful not to share. I'll post first and ask later... So look now before it's gone.

Northern Catalinas by Peter Noebels

FWIW, I do have an even better framed shot of this by Peter the master. It shares the wall with my two Adams.

Woo hoo, Peter has approved the posting.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 22, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
Nice posting, Pablo! Might be time to root around in the old slide box. Does Timmy or Larry have any other shots from Lucky Goes to the Creamery?
bob

climber
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Is that shot above of the overhanging bouldering from Rainbow rock in between Salida and Buena Vista, CO? Looks really familiar.
Bob J.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Thanks, Paul'n'all!
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2009 - 11:36am PT
Steve, I have to think if there's one pic of the Creamery, there's more. But, I sure thought Larry was in on it.
I thought he'd done the first pitch then come down
and found us and drug us down there to finish it.
Maybe he went up the first pitch then rapped off ?
That rings a vague bell. Like he had a class or something.

Bob J - yes, I suspect that pic is from that area because I stole it from D'Antonio. I have a few other great pics of the man on slides I'll have to dig up. While that shot is not Az (I don't think, it is of the man himself so belongs here since pics of him are really quite rare.)

Steve, now just need to get that nikon scanner working again.
Certainly have a few more that are postable !

Thanks J, long time no see. Awahnee with Serena as newborn I think was the last time I saw you..... Just to show how time flies....


sorry images are a bit big, but on my large monitor they seem to fit in ok. on my laptop they're crunched...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
Was it a party of four or five up there on LGTTC? I recall Haisley and Timmy but not Larry for some reason. I thought Timmy took those shots.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
You are correct. You, Tim, Jim and me.
But for some reason, I thought Larry had done the first pitch previously and went there with us to do it then rapped off after one. I recall leading a first pitch of 5.10 or so, slightly run out, mantly move onto a belay ledge ? Or, I could be confusing it with just some other climb.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
Thanks so much guys for posting these amazing photos.
Proud to be a Zoner.
MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
Would love to use some of the historic pics for the NAZ guides, let us know. Thanks for posting them up.

Erik
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 23, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
Some great climbing areas in Arizona, Queen Creek, however isn't one of them.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 23, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
Can't let Jim be dissin a slag heap and get away with it:


At a Syndicato Banquet, I think Jim had just gotten back from possibly his first big trip to Cerro ?
Great slide show, had to "borrow and liberate" some Prescott College gear
for an outdoor show and then use the gym when the weather turned.

(L to R) Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Jim Donini, Larry Coats, Gordon Douglass, Susie Walkup, Philipo Condrey

And yes, that Walkup (President of NAU's daughter) and that is what it looks like on Phil's left hand.
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 24, 2009 - 01:01am PT
FRONT PORCH *BUMP*
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jan 24, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
Bumpity bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 24, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
Nice shot Paul!

Scott Baxter's friend Philipo in Paul's shot above lost all of both hands but a wrist on one to a Civil War re-enactment accident. Despite the handicap he was able to manage many 5.7 routes and enjoyed himself fully battling away! Great guy!

It was inspiring to watch him work a set of moves all his own on every route with a wrist and a hook.
10b4me

Ice climber
the sads
Jan 24, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 25, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
To round off Steve's story of Phil's accident: it happened as he was tamping down a canon. (Steve, the ole VW bus came from Phil.)

Some of the old gang:
We can thank Larry Coats for most (all?) of the recent images I've posted. If he didn't shoot it, he at least scanned them in.
(yeah, some are lousy and dark, but some might say that's a reflection of the soul...)

Larry on Witblitz

Jim Haisley on Witblitz

et moi on Witblitz

et moi, top of first pitch, FA of the Dong.

Jim Haisley on the first ascent of Bleak Streak
(what's wrong with this picture ?)

Wrong ? I'm lying like a rug,
FA was Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom and Dave Kolpin, 1971,5.8

From the Lovejoy Guide:
This is a classic in thin face climbing which ascends the seemingly flawless wall called "The Face."
A face climbing specialist with stiff shoes will find this climb a breeze, but the man not accustomed to this sort of climbing may get caught in a Hurricane.
Care should be used in checking the security of the Holds.

PARAPHERNALIA: A small selection of small pitons and nuts is adequate to protect the final pitch and belay points on this route.
Please do not add or chop bolts.


Many a climber has been caught in a hurricane trying to lead GM 5.8s and 5.9s. This one is probably really only 5.8 ? Maybe 5.9 ?
But there did used to be that 20 ft grounder into a flake that the FA ran out and then stopped and drilled.

Last time I did this, I recall actually getting some possibly decent pro (slider, ball nut and/or TCU ?)
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