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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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This thread is dedicated to the genius of Jeff Batten.
He'd love this.
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ruppell
climber
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High E
Sure it's got two really cool and exposed moves but it's 150 feet of mediocre climbing to two cool moves to 50 feet of mediocre climbing.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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So many people take the climbs at the Gunk's for granted,
I disagree. High Exposer creates a sense of anticipation.
If you try to imagine it covered in lichen, three pins that may or may not fit and a rope that will break if you fall, All conditions that were part of the FA, then the climb feels historic.
It Is Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope, CCK, that has ten feet of climbing , every 50 feet or so.
from the belay up through the crux is now fully polished as much from guided top roping as from hundreds of thousands of accents.
The left variation, CCK direct with the rest being Consequential, very steep crux through a overhang is a worthy separate route.
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ruppell
climber
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Gnome you can imagine it any way you like. I'm not trying to take anything away from Kraus or Wiessner. They where exceptional for there time. But it's a joke it is so highly rated.
Madam G's, also a Kraus route, blows it away. Every move on Madam's is great. It's sustained and the exposure lasts a hell of a lot longer than High E.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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So clearly I'm behind the times and clicked the first page of this.
Can someone confirm that the bolts have indeed been removed from Double Cross?
Or a better response would be that saying someone bolted it was a joke in the first place.....
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Please declare how you cool you are...
... dis great routes and elevate yourself...
... yea, you bad!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Can someone confirm that the bolts have indeed been removed from Double Cross?
Bolts still there as of two days ago. I was drinking beers at the base watching some sweaty gym dudes get schooled on it. In FULL sun. Wild. 104 degrees and 32% humidity.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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I don't take it personally. It is just that some routes are iconic to different people for different reasons.
A first trip to the Valley is such an amazing experience for those coming from other places, and those climbs that pulled them there have a really different place in their experience than they may hold for locals.
Now that they may have been a bit overrated in terms of difficulty may be another story...
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Gotta laugh at people dissing East Butt of El Cap as overrated.
It was put up in 1953.
Were you expecting Dawn Wall or something?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aren't all climbs over-rated if you've sent them?
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Bolts still there as of two days ago. I was drinking beers at the base watching some sweaty gym dudes get schooled on it. In FULL sun. Wild. 104 degrees and 32% humidity.
Speechless.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Can someone confirm that the bolts have indeed been removed from Double Cross?
I believe Walling has given up on chopping them. They get replaced pretty quick. They are 1/2 inch button heads right now with Fixe hangers.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Unbelievable.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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I believe Walling has given up on chopping them. They get replaced pretty quick.
A dickotomy.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Traveler's Buttress. The position is great, but the crux is very short and not particularly fun. The upper dike hiking is fun the first time, but too easy and long to be something that you enjoy repeating.
High Exposure. I can't remember anything about the first pitch. The last pitch is great, but maybe not so great as to make up for the first pitch. Or are there 3 pitches?
Regular Route on Fairview. Great position, but the climbing is nothing too special.
I would be happy to repeat any of these routes another time, they are all great. But each of them has other climbs close by that are just as good.
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SusanA
Sport climber
Bay Area
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Double Cross was one of my first trad leads this spring and I really appreciated the bolts. My boyfriend gave me the beta that I could place a #11 stopper in the bottom of the crack and it seemed to fit nice but I just did not trust it. I also had a yellow cam but it wobbled. The first bolt gave me confidence because by then I was pretty high off the ground. I really enjoyed the climb and only had to hang twice. And my tape gloves started falling off half way up, lol! I am looking forward to getting it clean on my next trip down there in November.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Warbler,
Hobbit Book? Say it aint so! I love that route...
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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I'm sure I've been bored on a climb, too hot, not as into it as I thought I'd be, annoyed by a nearby shooting range, or whatnot, but I consider all of those as my personal issues and state of mind, not a reflection of the place or the climb.
I've never had the experience of feeling hype for a climb because it is commonly well-regarded and then I was disappointed by it. Maybe that is the silver lining of being an occasional weekend warrior- a greater appreciation of just being outside and getting to climb anything.
I suppose if my life revolved around the outdoors and I had my pick of spots on the planet, I might be more picky.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Most climbs(if not all the sport climbs I have done) at Red Rocks...
A 12a is an 11c, 12+ is more like 12 and most mid to lower 11s are like 10d/10c/d. With the notable exception of the Running Man, one of the best at RR IMHO.
However, the other over-rated gig for me was climbing at Wild Iris. Very cool location and hard as hell climbs(at least what we tried/did) but dang are they short!!!
Oh, and maybe Higher Spire but when you consider the time of the FFA it becomes pretty cool.
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