Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
|
Hmm, I saw the notes on MP and was intrigued. They mentioned broken glass, though,
is it a bad place for dogs? Does it dry out or stay damp after wet weather?
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
|
Pate:
The Northwoods crew gets out and smashes! Nice job guys.
Apparently the great minds of ST thought alike, "Whitehorse," yesterday.
meclimber:
Saw e_mac and jim e in the parking lot and chiloe rapping off HTH. Great day.
Oh no, you saw us rapping off Cold Day in Hell! It might have looked like HTH because,
well, actually it's the same rappel.
JimE:
C'mon, meclimber, we NEED photos!
He's right, it's Monday and we need those weekend photos.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
|
Hmm, I saw the notes on MP and was intrigued. They mentioned broken glass, though, is it a bad place for dogs? Does it dry out or stay damp after wet weather?
Really pretty minimal glass, and those guys raked all the trails this weekend. I bring my dogs there a couple times a month and never had any problems. I just make sure to watch them when we are atop the cliffs,and have someone walk them around if I want to go through the cave. The cave is pretty unique and worth a spin; you can feel your way through it, but a headlamp makes you appreciate it more. It is probably 50 feet of horizontal leading to a 14' ladder exit, or you can squeeze chimney your way out for added spice...
On Saturday the two easiest routes on the Outback Wall had seepage, a 5.9 and a .10b, but I bet they were doable. The rest of the place was dry, and that was after a day of rain.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
|
C'mon, meclimber, we NEED photos!
The proof is in the lens work! C'mon, you can do it!
|
|
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
|
I forgot this place even existed. Can't wait to get there this summer/fall.
|
|
meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
|
I'm lame guys, sorry. I got nothing to add. The eliminate would of had some good ones and likewise with the roof on jacobs ladder would have made for some spectacular shots. Chloe, fiddler looks great. Do you climb the corner or the face to the left of it to get up to the roof pitch.
I actually need some beta on a nice point and shoot. I would love one in general for around here, plus I have a valley trip coming up that I wouls love some pics from. Who uses what and why?
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
|
For Fiddler on the Roof we climbed the bolted face just left of the big corner, eventually
crossing over the corner at a black streak to reach the belay roost. That black streak
was soaked and slimy -- A0! The 10c face was dry but exciting.
|
|
meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
|
Do you get to belay before the roof or do you go to the top in 1 pitch?
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
|
We belayed on the little ledge just under the roof, above the corner. It's short enough
that you might link it all in one pitch, but the tradeoff could be rope drag on the balancy
moves above the roof.
|
|
Jim E
climber
away
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
|
...but the tradeoff could be rope drag on the balancy
moves above the roof.
And what a balancy move it is!
|
|
meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
|
ha, my partner who led the last of jacobs got bound up passing the roof and had terrible drag on the last section just before the anchor.
Jim, eric, where does science friction start, on the common unicorn ledge? We had talked about it last year when we did wonderwall (kinda did).
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
|
John, it starts from the same ledge as Last Uni, but well left of it. Just right of where Wonder Wall takes off the ledge you truck up and right, then follow the bolt ladder. After that, immaculate moves up and right to finish left of the Unicorn.
Super fun and intricate.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
|
Science friction is a total classic with any finish. A way brave lead by Doug BITD. I like the 5.11 finish done by Ed, i have not done the direct 12b.
Anyone done centaur ? Classic 11a r-ish bold on sight.
How about SBD - South Buttress Direct AKA Silent But deadly ? It's really not that bad at 11c ao RR !
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
|
Yesterday, I got to hang out with Jim E and Maxine at Whitehorse. My family had ditched me for a few days, so I was psyched to crash their daddy-daughter weekend.
It was a beautiful day and even better company.
We started with Sliding Board, which Maxine has done before (check a few pages prior for some shots of her toping out).
Here's the daddy-daughter team before our launch:
Motoring up the first pitch, while daddy gets an upper body workout trying to belay at the speed she climbs:
At the first belay Maxine got out her camera for some pics. She is the photographer for her school yearbook.
Jim on the skyline of pitch 3:
And, the summit, with Mt Washington in the background.
Daddy and daughter headed back to the base for some lunch.
The day was about half done, but Maxine was just getting started. The glory shots are still to come...
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
|
Daddy and daughter bump. Looks like some fun being had.
Z
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:23am PT
|
Looks like some fun being had. Yep. It was a memorable day.
After some lunch and text messages to my girls -- they were stuck in Connecticut traffic as we lounged in the sun -- Jim put up a top-rope on the Ethereal Buttress (photo credit: Maxine):
The Daddy asking, "Do you remember what I taught you about climbing cracks?"
Checking things out:
and firing (check out the right toes caming in the pod!):
and a few seconds later, Maxine's first 5.10:
After a few high-fives, her second 5.10:
Planning some full family get-together-adventures and revelling in Maxine's day, I was thinking about how good it is to be a good dad. Jim is a great climber, but he's an even better dad.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:32am PT
|
See any loose junk above Ethereal ? There was rockfall a little while ago.
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:35am PT
|
We didn't see anything remarkable up above (not such a great vantage point), but there was plenty impressive evidence at the base, including a tree (~15" in diameter) that was split in half from top to bottom.
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:51am PT
|
Pate, we did Sliding Board, which heads left and above the Standard Arch. I hadn't done it in years, but it was a blast paddling next to Maxine, who at one point on the first pitch looked over at me and said, "It's easier if you don't use your hands. Just walk up." Then, she showed me how.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:53am PT
|
Pate, Sliding Board is a 5.7 mostly independent route that only follows Standard to the start of the arch then heads left and up. One of my favorite of the slab routes, and with a short bit of vert up high.
Nice job Maxine! Well done by the adults also.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!