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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:02am PT
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Bruce and I exchanged quite a few emails over the past seven years. It was always a pleasure to hear from him. He was one of the very first people to believe in the Valley Giant, and his collection is more vast than Greg's photo would suggest.
Here is the Brutus of Wyde topo of Tempest, a route that's a very severe test of a mountaineer. His topo offers up a hint of his sense of humor, and a good deal more of his sense of being accurate for those traveling after him:
EDIT: Brandon's photos show the Mighty Wyde One with Russian Aiders strapped to his legs. Sometime about 2003, Bruce loaned his Russian Aiders to PTPP, sight unseen, and with no collateral (or even a promise to return them!). PTPP used them (on Bermuda Dunes?) and was convinced the RA system was better. After that, PTPP got his own pair (and returned Bruce's) and would tell anyone who listened: Russian Aiders are a great improvement over clumsy, old aid ladders.
I used Bruce's Russian Aiders on that wall, too. And liked the system.
Even today, right now, PTPP is posting here on ST about how much he liked Theron's efforts to get the Russian Aider system available again.
And none of that would have taken place, if it weren't for Bruce.
Oh, if only I could produce a big, golden Wyde crack cam to send off with Bruce.
A car crash.
We were robbed . . . .
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Old5Ten
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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Just found out the horrible news from my wife. Em, we are so sorry!!! Brutus of Wyde was truly a great, larger than life person. I first met Bruce at City Rock, intrigued by his upside down climbing (which I desperately tried to imitate) of the flaring chimney/OW. Talked to him a few times on the fringe, but not much.
Many years later I would run into him at various places, mostly the Wilderness Exchange, and talk to him a bit more. One of his many admirable traits was that of 'walking encyclopedia.' He knew more about popular and obscure routes in the Sierra and elsewhere than anyone else. Big on the list at the time was his secretive 'Dirty Dozen.'
A few years later my wife and I joined Bruce and Em on a rebolting mission of 'Hairline,' a Brutus of Wyde original on the overhanging East Face of Mt. Whitney. We spent a week ferrying loads, fixing, rebolting, jugging, and living on the wall. It's in situations like these that you really get to know a person. Someone mentioned 'tough as nails' - yes, Bruce was that. Many mentioned his kindness and they are correct. Not the fake kindness that we experience everyday when random people smile at us, but the empathy that truly understands when someone is in need. The type of kindness that gives to those more in need even at the cost of self sacrifice.
Bruce was a teacher by example, an inspiration, a guiding light - certainly for me. Watching his drive and will to constantly get out and explore, to climb, to face and overcome hardship, to make the best of things with what was given to him at the moment. Never a complaint, humble and self-depreciating, and always the perfect sarcastic, but not mean, wit. I remember threatening him with a tape recorder as he breathlessly rattled off one liners on the approach to Tahquitz. The man was funny and continuously made me laugh. Bruce, we will miss you, but we will not forget you!
Elmar and Lisa
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:15am PT
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Condolences to those who were close to Bruce. I never had the pleasure of meeting him but have enjoyed his writing for many years on wreck dot climbing and here.
The world is a smaller and less interesting place without him.
Cheers Bruce.
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crøtch
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:31am PT
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A Brutus of Wyde gem from the rec.climbing days.
WARNING!!
ALL INDIVIDUALS USING, REFERRING TO,
TALKING ABOUT, OR THINKING ABOUT THIS
TOPO MUST READ THIS!!!
This inaccurate topo is based on dim
recollections, half-baked guesses, and
outright lies. In NO WAY does it tell
the full story. You would probably be
better off just trying to find your own
way up the mounatin, than you would be
if you used this topo. But that
statement in no way implies that I am
in any way responsible if you don't
use the topo, and something bad happens anyway.
Nature is unpredictable and unsafe.
Mountains are dangerous. Many books
have been written about these dangers,
and there’s no way I can list them all
here. Read the books.
The area depicted by this topo is covered
in steep terrain with loose, slippery and
unstable footing. The weather can make
matters worse. Sheer drops are everywhere.
You may fall, be injured or die. There
are hidden holes. You could break your
leg. There are wild animals, which may be
vicious, poisonous, hungry or carriers of
dread diseases. These may include poisonous
amphibians, reptiles, and insects; insects
to which you have allergies, or whose
multiple stings can cause anaphylactic
shock; mammals which may include skunks,
badgers, marmots, lions, tigers, and bears;
predatory birds, and all other manner of
beasts. Plants can be poisonous as well,
and even when not poisonous, can inflict
serious injury like a sharp stick in the
eye. This topo, and the author of this
topo, will not do anything to protect you
from any of this. I do not inspect, supervise
or maintain the ground, rocks, cliffs,
wildlife, vegetation or other features,
natural or otherwise.
Real dangers are present even on approach
trails. Trails are not sidewalks, and folks
have died and been seriously injured even
on sidewalks when they have tripped on cracked
concrete, plunged into meter boxes with
missing covers, been mugged, hit by cars,
had pianos fall on them... Trails can be,
and are, steep, slippery and dangerous.
Trail features made or enhanced by humans,
such as bridges, steps, walls and railings
(if any) can break, collapse, or otherwise
fail catastrophically at any time. I don’t
promise to inspect, supervise or maintain
them in any way. They may be negligently
constructed or repaired. Some trails in
the area are only maintained by Nelson Bighorn
Sheep, who have little regard for human life
or human safety, or any humans whatsoever.
In summary, trails are unsafe, period. Live
with it or stay away.
Stay on the trails whenever possible. The
terrain, in addition to being dangerous,
is surprisingly complex. You may get lost.
You probably WILL get lost. The chances of
getting lost multiply geometrically after
the sun goes down, due to poor visibility.
The sun goes down at least once a day in
this area. Not to say that you won't get
lost during daylight hours. In either event,
carry a flashlight, extra bulb and batteries,
compass, GPS, altimeter, cellular phone,
food, water, matches and first aid supplies
at all times. My advising you of this does
not mean there are not other things you
should be carrying. Carry them all as well,
and know how to use them. I am not responsible
for the consequences if you fail to heed this
advice. In fact, I am not responsible for
the consequences even if you DO heed this
advice and, for example, end up in an unplanned
bivy because you were carrying too much g*dd@mn
stuff, stumble into the bivy fire at 2 am when
you get up to take a p!ss, and severely burn the
flesh on your hands. You have only yourself to
blame, so leave me out of it.
Rocks and other objects can, and probably will,
fall from the cliffs. They can tumble down
slopes. This can happen naturally, or be
caused by people above you, such as climbers.
Rocks of all sizes, including huge boulders,
can shift, move or fall with no warning. If you
don't believe me check out the talus slopes at
the base of some of the rock walls. They
didn't just grow there. Use of helmets is advised
for anyone approaching the rock formations. As a
matter of fact, approaching the rock formations
is not advised. That is pretty stupid too. But if
you DO choose to risk your worthless scrawny neck
by going near rocks, shoulder pads, knee pads,
elbow pads, athletic cups and supporters and
other body armor may be handy as well. These
items can be purchased or rented from
mountaineering shops and athletic supply stores.
They won’t save you if you get hit by or
scrape against something big or on another
part of your body. A whole rock formation
might collapse on you leave nothing but a
grease spot. Don’t think it can’t happen.
It does, and it probably will.
Weather can be dangerous, regardless of
the forecast. Be prepared with extra
clothing, including rain gear. Hypothermia,
heat stroke, dehydration, frostbite,
lightning, ice and snow, runoff from rainstorms,
flashfloods, etc. can kill you. Rain can turn
easy terrain into a deathtrap, can drown you
if you're looking up into the sky with your
mouth open, and vastly decreases traction on
pavement. Snow is even worse, the hazards
ranging from snowball fight injuries to avalanches.
If you scramble in high places (scrambling
is moving over terrain steep enough to use
your hands) without proper experience, training
and equipment, or allow children to do so, you
are making a terrible mistake. Even if you know
what you’re doing and are the most experienced
and safest climber the world has ever known,
you are still making a terrible mistake: lots of
things can and do go wrong and you may be injured
or die. It happens all the time.
Furthermore, scrambling amongst the huge boulders
in this canyon, even without exposure of high
places, can result in serious physical and/or
emotional injury, or death.
This area, and this route, are not provided with
any rangers or security personnel on any regular
basis. The other people in the area, including
other visitors, USFS employees, foreign agents,
biologists and nature freaks, and anyone else
who might sneak in, may be stupid, reckless, a
religious fanatic, or otherwise dangerous. They
may be mentally ill, criminally insane, drunk, using
illegal drugs and/or armed with deadly weapons and
ready to use them. I'm not going to do anything about
that. I refuse to take responsibility.
Excessive consumption of alcohol, use of
prescription drugs, over-the-counter medications,
and/or legal or illegal controlled substances while
frequenting this area can and probably will affect
your mental state, alertness, and decision-making
abilities, and could make an already dangerous
situation even worse. Even abstinence won't
protect you from the actions of others under
the influence of such substances. Tough luck.
Not my fault.
The driveways, freeways, highways, streets,
alleys, back roads and unimproved 4WD tracks
leading to this area kill hundreds of folks
each year. Many of these fatalities are folks
who aren't even on their way to this canyon,
who in fact have never heard of this canyon,
but are simply innocent victims. Not so you.
You have been warned. You could get killed
driving to the trailhead. Wearing your seatbelt
tightly fastened with the lap belt low across
your waist improves your chances of survival,
in most cases (except that one steep section
of road) but does not and cannot guarantee your
safety. You might die before ever stepping out
of your vehicle at the trailhead, or on the way
home. It can happen any time. If you think you
are immune from this kind of thing, you're
fooling yourself.
This is not a sterile environment. Bacteria,
viruses, protozoa, protoviruses, fungi and other
forms of life and protolife which may or may not
be currently included in either the plant or animal
kingdom are capable of causing you serious bodily
harm, illness, or death. These kinds of biological
agents are both endemic in the area or present in
the plant and animal populations; and are also
capable of being carried or transmitted by your
climbing partners and travelling companions. I'm
not going to take responsibility for this, either.
My advice for you to treat drinking water, wash
your hands before and after going to the bathroom
and before eating, and to not indulge in unprotected
sex in this area, in no way obligates me to be
responsible for the consequences if you fail to
do so, nor does it mean that even if you DO take
these precautions and something happens anyway,
that I am to blame. Not so. Forget it. Nada. Negativo.
If you climb, you may die or be seriously
injured. And the longer you climb the greater
your risk of bad luck, which may or may not
be compounded by hubris, catching up to you.
This is true whether you are experienced or
not, trained or not, and equipped or not,
though training, experience and equipment may
help. It’s a fact, climbing is extremely dangerous.
If you don’t like it, stay at home. You really
shouldn’t be doing it anyway. I do not provide
supervision or instruction. I am not responsible
for, and do not inspect or maintain, climbing
anchors (including bolts, pitons, slings, trees,
etc.) As far as I know, any of them can and
probably will suddenly fail without warning and
send you plunging to your death with a bloodcurdling
scream, likely pulling your partner to his or her
doom as well. There are countless tons of loose
rock ready to be dislodged and fall on you or someone
else. There are any number of inobvious,
extremely and unusually dangerous conditions existing
on and around the rocks, and elsewhere in the
canyon. I probably don't know about any specific
hazard, but even if I do, don’t expect this
topo or its author to try to warn you. You’re
on your own.
Furthermore, the fact that I'm not trying
to stop you from being in this area in no
way implies, nor should it be inferred, that
I approve, recommend, advocate, or otherwise
in any way affirm that such action on your
part is anything but incredibly stupid.
Rescue services are not provided by anyone
near this climb, and may not be available
quickly or at all. In fact, if anything
really serious happens to you in this area,
you'll probably be dead before word ever
reaches civilization. Local rescue squads
may not be equipped for or trained in mountain
rescue. They probably won't be. If you are
lucky enough to have somebody try to rescue
you or treat your injuries, they will probably
be incompetent or worse. This includes doctors
and hospitals. I assume no responsibility. Also,
if you decide to participate in a rescue of
some other unfortunate, that’s your choice.
Don’t do it unless you are willing to assume
all risks, and don't blame me when it goes
bad and you end up getting yourself sued in
the process.
By using, or even just looking at this topo,
you are agreeing that I owe you no duty of
care or any other duty, you agree to release
me, my relatives, heirs, dependents, and anyone
else I care to name, now and forevermore,
from any and all claims of liability, even
though my actions may be grossly negligent
and/or be construed as reckless endangerment,
manslaughter, or other misconduct up to and
including premeditated murder. By consulting
this topo, you agree to waive forever any
rights that you, your partners, dependents,
heirs, inlaws, and others known or unknown to
you may have, to legal compensation resulting
from anything that has anything to do with this
topo, including but in no way limited to paper
cuts from the edge of the topo itself. If
you try to sue me in spite of all this, you
agree to pay my lawyers fees regardless of the
outcome of the suit, and you expressely agree
to re-imburse me for any loss or injury, be
it financial, physical, emotional, or imagined,
which I may experience as a result of such lawsuit.
I promise you nothing. I do not and will
not even try to keep the area safe for any
purpose. The area is NOT safe for any purpose.
This is no joke. I won’t even try to warn
about any dangerous or hazardous condition,
whether I know about it or not. If I do decide
to warn you about something, that doesn’t
mean I will try to warn you about anything else.
If I do make an effort to fix an unsafe condition,
I may not try to correct any others, and I may
actually make matters worse! I may have done
things in the area that are unwise and
dangerous. I probably did, but I don't remember.
Sorry, I'm neither competent nor responsible.
The topo gives you bad advice. Don’t listen.
Or do listen. It's your choice, but you face
the consequences either way, whatever they may be.
In short, CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you,
or your heirs, relatives, dependents or others
known or unknown to you; your partner or your
partners heirs, relatives, dependents, or
others known or unknown to your partner, are
the slimy kind of lawyer-touting parasites who
would try to sue the author of a topo, If you
can't take responsibility for your own decisions,
knowledge, routefinding and plain dumb luck,
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE stay far far away from this
route and this canyon, give up climbing, and die
of some completely natural, painful, and slowly
progressive disease.
Thank you, climb safe, and have fun!
END of Disclaimer
Credit is due to Russ Walling for the original
inspiration, and to a rumored sign at Seneca Rocks
from which I unabashedly stole some of the text.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:45am PT
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Thank you, Cr0tch, for that gem of delicious insight into the ironic, comical aspect of the Brain of Brutus that, sadly, we no longer have access to.
Bruce is now, and will always be, missed.
I can only hope that Brutus of Wyde and OUCH! have a better place to do what they do best.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 15, 2009 - 03:34am PT
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This thread needs the beer dam pic...
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Madbolter
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 03:35am PT
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Brutus...wow.
I just heard the news today. What a senseless loss. I've not even lurked much these days, but it's nice to peek back in and see the outpouring of love and concern for Bruce and Em.
May his spirit keep climbing.
Rex Pieper
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Eddieeagle
Trad climber
Newcastle NORTHERN IRELAND
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Jun 15, 2009 - 08:27am PT
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Firstly my sympathies to Em and Bruce's family. I'm greatly saddened by his sudden departure. I first met Bruce and Em at my local climbing wall Class 5 in Marin County. When I showed an interest in mastering the art of climbing wide cracks Bruce give me excellent advise along with a tick list and the stories of old. I know that the climbing community have benefitted greatly from his work by helping revise topos, rebolting and 1st ascents, I well remember the 50 year anniversary re-ascent Bruce made with Allen Steck of the classic line Steck/Salathe on Sentinel Rock. Repecting the adventurous nature of of those that came before us and their ability to pass their great wisdom on.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Jun 15, 2009 - 09:11am PT
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Damn it. That's all I got right now.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jun 15, 2009 - 10:03am PT
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Tonight I'll hoist one to a life well lived.
RIP
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 15, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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Sheesh Really sad news. I am sadden for him and those loved ones he will be waiting for on the other side. So sorry Dingus and Nurse Ratchet.
Tommy Thompson
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 10:59am PT
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Ditto here. Bruce sounded like a great guy and sounds like he had a very full life of adventure, friendship and companionship. Very unfortunate to lose someone of that caliber. Condolensces to those who were close to him.
Frank
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 15, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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wow, just got back from the weekend and found this. terrible news.
condolences to all--
kerwin
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
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Jun 15, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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There is a big hole in the heart of this community, I'm sure...here's to that spirit of joy and exploration moving on to the next big dream in the sky.
We should all hoist one and farm some remote chosspile that his spirit will live on.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
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Very sad indeed. Great to see some of the stories here. Some new some old...
Warm thoughts to his family and friends,
Peter
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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RIP Brother of the Stone.
I can only rejoice in the belief you are cranking the wides in style with other fallen mates.
"I sense a disturbance in The Force"...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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This internet thing can be so…cold. Terrible way to find out of a friend’s passing…
Em, I’m so sorry. Someone, if there’s a memorial, please let me know.
Been too long since I’d seen you guys. Ugh.
From one of our many sessions at Ironworks, Rocknasium, Class 5, etc. Jupiter’s in Berkeley:
So many memories of the Brewtus. We climbed together initially in the gym. He was a fixture on several websites I frequented, and, a worthy read is to go into rec.climbing and surf up some of his wisdom. His “put” was refreshing, given the meanness on that site, which, I knew from asking upset him and finally drove him away.
We first met when a mutual friend of ours and I suggested a gym night in Davis at Rocknasium. Bruce drove all the way up from Oakland to meet up with us. I’d heard he was a fairly good climber, but, not from him. He was modest to the point of ridiculousness. Which, of course went out the window when you watched him climb. Strong. Gymnast strong. And, a lifer.
We hooked up climbing indoors and out for a few years. Ice climbing in Utah (his picture is in the Utah ice climbing guidebook in a couple of locations, including a funny picture of him posing on avalanche debris in the road). I remember after climbing in Santaquin Canyon, Bruce wanted to check out American Fork, just to see it. We drove there, and, got out of the car to scope “License to Thrill”, which I explained was a popular and fun climb. There was a bail ‘biner quite a ways up the route, maybe 20 feet or more off the deck. Before I could warn him off, Bruce had soloed up the thing in his plastic ice climbing boots, snagged the biner, and downclimbed. No sweat. I remember thinking, “wow”, as I knew how hard those moves were and why that bail ‘biner was there.
If you look at the Utah ice guide, you’ll see a picture of Em leading the GWI, and, Bruce is off to the left, soloing. But what the caption doesn’t say, is that Bruce is headin’ up to check out a fixed pin, which he bootied of course.
Em, Bruce and I climbed the Lost Arrow tip together. What gracious hosts! Bruce was dubious of the single 300 foot static line I brought, ‘cause it looked a tad thin, but, he humored me and it made the rappel and the tyrolean pretty easy to rig. When I jugged across, Bruce handed me a Sapporo. Our bivy the night before, with Bruce’s excellent cooking “chicken tits” on the open fire, was superb. What a great trip, short as it was, off my usual, at the time, business trip to the area.
I imported Bruce to the City of Rocks to lead an offwidth route. Amazing watching his technique. On that trip, I found out he pretty much knew the entire dialog of the Wizard of Oz, which of course we qued up once at my place, synched with Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon.
When our mutual friend from that first meeting at Rocknasium went missing on Shasta, Bruce was there for us. I spent a long night in Oakland at the Old Climber’s Home, in a borrowed -30F sleeping bag that I sweated my ass off in. Misery loved company. Sure enough, Bruce and Em joined some other friends in late May on Shasta, where they found Zippo. Met up with them a few weeks later, at another gym (San Jose this time I seem to recall) and they shared some of that, including photo’s. Profoundly moving and sensitve. I can still remember that night with clarity. Bruce’s write up in the 2001 ANAM summarized that accident.
We attended Zippo’s funeral in Sacramento about this time, nine years ago, already. Crazy how time flies. Bruce read a poem he wrote, and, those in earshot bawled their head’s off. Posted below. Bruce not only penned great route topo’s, but, also was a great writer.
Heavy sigh.
Tip a Sierra Nevada for you my friend.
-"Brain" in SLC
Poem Bruce read at John Miksits' funeral in June 2000:
***
Cold.
Hard to think. Shivering.
Craig. Where's Craig? Oh. That's right.
Gone on ahead of me, somewhere.
Wind. Darkness.
Later. No shivering.
Later. Warm. Where?
Wind howling over the top of the col. I'm on Shasta. Have to get
somewhere.
Up. Body stiff. Dark. Out of the bivy sack. get headlamp. hard to make
hands work.
Warmer.
Walking now. Feeling better. I can see now. See clearly. night.
walking
downhill. Don't need the headlamp. I can see the whole world in the
darkness,
glowing like the living thing it is. How come I could never see it
before?
Drop the headlamp. How could I ever need it again, when everything is so
bright?
Through the mountain, through the world, through the whiteout and wind,
through hands held up, see stars. "Whiteout": what is that and why did it
have me so confused? I can see everything so clearly now. See through
my closed eyelids. I see with my soul -- see all the other souls bright
like
the stars--
Have to go somewhere.
Not a voice calling, not lights signalling . Something? Someone?
A calling, a place remembered, somewhere before my life began,
before I knew I was me, or first heard the beating of my heart.
calling me back. back to warmth, warm darkness where night is unknown,
surrounded by brightness, basking in joy but knowing nothing else except
as a memory, the past, present, and future coalescing into what IS...
Expanding... No longer feel ice pellets blasting my face.
Wind no longer a vicious beast, hardly a whisper now as it roars over
the col... expanding awareness, the mountain so small inside me,
I search for something... for the bright stars in the web of lights I
have
touched... and have become... Family, each of us part of each
other's lives since before we opened our eyes for the first time to
look at the outside world...
and Doreen. and Sarah. and Joey.
Others so close... Troop 259... Friends... climbing partners met face to
face
or simply through the threads of communication stretching out like a
silver
web in the darkness between people. Everyone, everywhere I've touched,
still touching, still there.
Still expanding... the living earth within my borders now, and everyone
I have known bright stars I have touched a part of me now and I a part of
them... with them, of them.
Brighter... Still -- called? pulled? no, drawn. Drawn to what is
ahead,
if this place beyond time and space can have aheadness...
What have I learned?
smile in the darkness. Yes, it is good. Thank you all. We all learn
from
each other. We are all gifts.
Brightness. Joy. Love.
Coming home, to where it all started, before I was, full circle, seeing
this
place, again, not seen since before I was born, seeing again,
for the first time...
Bruce Bindner - fellow climber
Oakland, CA
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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THAT was Brutus.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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thx Brian
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Les
Trad climber
Brooklyn
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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f*#k, this saddens me more than I can say, and I never even met the man. But I will never forget that he, without my even asking, offered to send me one of his topos when I inquired via e-mail about Mt. Slesse's Northeast Buttress. He asked me for my address, and within days, I received a laminated copy in the mail. Unbelievable. That one small kindness told me all I needed to know about the man, and I am utterly floored by the news of his passing. What a profound loss this is to the climbing community, and really, to humanity at large. Brutus of Wyde (one of the coolest handles ever), may ye rest in peace.
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