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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Mar 26, 2017 - 04:46pm PT
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Half of people climb for style or interpretism..
While the other half climb to push the limits, orelse their own limits..
I only remember Royal climbing for integrity and honor.
RIP RR
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
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In May 1971, when I was just getting started mountaineering as such, my father took me to a presentation by Royal at Vancouver's Queen Elizabeth Theatre (or maybe the Playhouse?). That same month, we also went to a presentation by Gaston Rebuffat of Entre Terre et Ciel, also at the QET. Two outstanding climbers, and two outstanding presentations. I don't remember much of Royal's talk, being that I was a noob, and through my parents mostly knew mountaineers. Still, it was impressive.
(I can't recall any other climbing or mountaineering related presentation at the QET or QEP - the QET being one of the larger and classiest theatres in Vancouver.)
Of course, when Basic Rockcraft and then Advanced Rockcraft appeared over the next two years I eagerly devoured them. The latter in particular reflected the paradigm shift that was taking place in rock climbing. Naturally when we started going to Yosemite we detoured to stop at the Robbins shop in Modesto. A sort of pilgrimage.
Thirty years later I was at an Access Fund conference in Estes Park, and Royal gave talks on two consecutive nights to entertain us do-gooders. The first his more or less stock presentation, the second much more personal, again both excellent. Naturally I introduced myself to him, and mentioned seeing him speak in 1971. Royal was his usual kind self.
Royal definitely lived up to the philosopher's maxim that the unexamined life is not worth living. As seen in Tis-sa-ack and then the Dawn Wall, he was not only willing to advocate and try for values and standards that were out of reach, but honest when he felt he hadn't measured up, or was wrong.
It was nice to see him again at the Facelift in 2007, when for the first time he, Tom Frost and John Stannard met in person. Three great pioneers of climbing, and advocates for its enduring values, as seen in their, Chouinard's and other's vocal support for the clean climbing wave of the early 1970s. He also came to the memorial for John Bachar at Camp 4 in 2009, and spoke eloquently in John's memory.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
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Anders, thanks for including Stannard in the pantheon, he set an excellent example to those of us climbing in the Baltimore/Washington area in the 1970s.
Climbing for me still lives within those parameters: climb well, make the place better, and participate in the community.
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jstan
climber
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Mar 27, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
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In Caesar's and Lincoln's day people could be forgiven for thinking their world was evaporating before their eyes. That said, we climbers have spent our many decades in our own very special world. Whatever we now feel, we have to go on.
There is more to be done. Yesterday the California Highway Patrol taped an "Abandoned Vehicle Warning" to the window of my truck. Might this portend something?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 27, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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me thinks it portents a new parking spot! :)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
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There is more to be done. Yesterday the California Highway Patrol taped an "Abandoned Vehicle Warning" to the window of my truck. Might this portend something?
JS, I hope is was not the Vega that was parked at the turnout below the hairpin in the Gunks nearly every weekend in the 70s...?
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Mar 27, 2017 - 09:09pm PT
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jstan...nice knowing you..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2017 - 09:15pm PT
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John's post simply means that we'll need to have another fundraiser at the Gordons, this time to get him a suitable litter collection vehicle. Like Werner's, maybe.
Or maybe Jody can help? Wasn't he on CHP?
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 10:01pm PT
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Royal Robbinsl. It's hard to add anything that hasn't already been said. Climbing at Schurmann Rock in West Seattle in 1972 and seeing the best local climbers of the day wearing those pretty blue boots, I knew I needed a pair. Then reading Basic Rockcraft as an employee at the old 11th and Pine REI. Wow.
May of 1976, I'm sorting gear in El Cap Meadows after doing the Salathe. This older guy comes up to me and asks what we were up to and I tell him. "Hmmm, a lot of new bolts up there" he asks. I reply, "no, pretty much as Roper describes it." "That's good to hear," he replies. He goes on to ask what kind of rack we had and how much of it we were able to do clean. "A lot of it went clean until we hit the roof/headwall and were scared sh*tless, but other than that it was ok," was my answer. He then says, "good, that's great. I'm headed up this week with some friends, haven't been there in 15 years or so."
Hmmm, 1976 - 15 = 1961! Damn, I think I just met my hero.................................RIP Royal.
and a post note- My future wife's first rock climb was following me on The Nutcracker. It was an amazing experience and made me appreciate her and the climb Royal created.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Mar 27, 2017 - 10:10pm PT
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Good one Goat!
Anders, I'll pitch'in on that one;)
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jstan
climber
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Mar 28, 2017 - 07:58pm PT
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JS, I hope is was not the Vega that was parked at the turnout below the hairpin in the Gunks nearly every weekend in the 70s...?
That Vega had a really useful feature. I could push start it on the level with no help. I had two bodies and three engines before finally giving up. Now I have a 92 Silverado half ton.
This makes my second run-in with the law. My first occurred at Carderock where I was cited for
"improper use of a comfort station". So proud of that.
One question. Why is it Werner always gets the good stuff?
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Leon Alan
Social climber
Gearhart, Oregon
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Mar 31, 2017 - 11:06am PT
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I was lucky enough to be at an employee weekend outing the summer of '76 @ the Balls. Royal was leading a short route. Seeing I didn't have climbing shoes, he took off his new prototypes that he was testing (red RRs) and just gave them to me. He did the climb in tennis shoes. Not only bigger than life, but also the best of life. Great Man.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Has anyone heard anything about a memorial service being planned for Royal?
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Nice writing Gina. I agree with you about his influence that goes so far beyond just the routes he put up.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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My favorite picture of a badass.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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There is no question that Robbins was enormously influential, and that he cared about the means of ascent as much as the end result. Robbins was larger than life, which means, among other things, that there was an entire generation of climbers who were receptive to and moved by his message. He was influential because he had an audience capable of understanding where he was coming from and willing to embark on the journey with him.
For me, part of the sadness of his passing is that it is also the passing of a time when a visionary like Robbins could rise above the cacophony of competing individual perspectives and entitlements and embue the activity with a commonly if not universally shared set of values, based on principles and not exigencies. I don't think Royal Robbins could be Royal Robbins in today's climbing world, and I do not find us richer for the loss.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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rgold,
"I don't think Royal Robbins could be Royal Robbins in today's climbing world"
spot on. The words epitomize and defined come to mind of his climbing world. by definition he could only be Royal in that time that was defined by Royal Robbin's actions.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Rich:
How can I say this kindly? You’re getting old. Every generation makes the same assessment--they tend to be relative.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mr. Muir,
Tamara says it's being worked on.
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