Look out Yosemite: Ondra is coming!

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matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 13, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
Tomorrow going for the push! First two days of heat and climbing the first 13 pitches, then one restday of rain and then perfect conditions for the crux pitches on day 4. Starting tomorrow at 3 AM to get done as many pitches as possible before the remorseless sun hits the wall.



https://www.instagram.com/p/BMw46IFA9ie/
Eddie

Trad climber
San Francisco
Nov 13, 2016 - 09:20pm PT
Go get it! Mind blowing.

Forget the climbing, just the logistics would stop 99% of climbers. Can't wait to see footage of this someday.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 14, 2016 - 08:56am PT
Good morning, Californians. 9 pitches went down early today: https://www.instagram.com/p/BMzElECBSgq/?taken-by=pavelblazek
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 14, 2016 - 11:46am PT
Can't wait to see footage of this someday.
Did Sender film finish Dawn Wall movie from 2015 of Tommy and Kevin assent?
As far as I know - they are not. It would be strange to see Adam movie ahead , but anyway he started and we are "watching" online.. All the best!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 14, 2016 - 11:51am PT
Dam exciting this "kid" Ondra!

Love his style and attitude, a humble lesson for all of us.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Nov 14, 2016 - 12:17pm PT
Did Sender film finish Dawn Wall movie from 2015 of Tommy and Kevin assent?

Just saw this

Lovely, not only climbsplaining big wall free climbing, but a bunch of TC's personal life(while dedicating 10-15 seconds in montage to his other climbing achievements, i.e. Content I'd actually pay to see).

Good news is Ondra's usually pretty quick to release footage so I'll actually get to see the relevant parts soon and save money in the process.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 14, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
Adam Ondra and his climbing partner Pavel Blazek began their ground up, single push free attempt of the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) on El Cap, Yosemite at 3 a.m. today, Monday, November 14. They opted for an alpine start to beat the direct sunlight and heat of the day. By 8:50 a.m., Ondra had already reached his goal for day one of the final push, completing the route’s first nine pitches (5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b, 5.12d, 5.13c, 5.14a, 5.13d, 5.13c).

Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) Topo

“So it’s 8:50. After around six hours of climbing I did the first nine pitches,” Ondra shared in a video update. He had reached pitch 5 by 5 a.m., the top of pitch 7 by 7 a.m.

Pitches 5 through 9 of the <em>Dawn Wall</em>, El Capitan, Yosemite. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.rockandice.com/dawn-wall-el-cap-yosemite-topo">Click here for the full Dawn Wall topo.</a>.

Pitches 5 through 9 of the Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite. Click here for the full Dawn Wall topo..
“It was kind of exciting on pitch 8 [5.13d], which is like super sharp,” he said in the video. “It was kind of getting warmer, and I spent two tries and I was like thinking, hmm, maybe my skin isn’t really good enough to do it, which would be pretty complicated. Luckily, after I good fight, I did it. And also did quite easily pitch 9 [5.13c]. And now we are resting for tomorrow.”

After seven years and a final 19-day push, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were first to climb the Dawn Wall. Their final push from December 27, 2014 to January 14, 2015 captured the attention of not only the climbing community, but also the world at large, and the Dawn Wall has yet to be repeated.

Ondra began exploring the route's 32 pitches, by a mix of free- and aid-climbing techniques on October 17. On November 3, he and Blazek, both from the Czech Republic, topped out the 3,000-foot wall. Ondra went back up to work the crux pitches and then took a few rest days before for his final push today.

On Instagram, Ondra reported that he plans to climb four more pitches tomorrow (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b, 5.13b), to the top of pitch 13, and then take a rest day before tackling the three crux pitches (first 5.14d traverse, second 5.14d traverse, 5.14c loop pitch link).

Stay tuned for updates on Adam Ondra’s progress.
From http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/final-push-adam-ondra-blasts-up-first-nine-pitches-of-the-dawn-wall

I'm pretty sure that even if all of those first pitches were 5.9 it would have still taken me longer than it took him. Wow
Impaler

Social climber
Oakland
Nov 14, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
The full length film about TC's and KJ's ascent of the Dawn Wall is a huge undertaking featuring multi-level difficulties and plagued by self-doubt. This daunting undertaking might take as long as 7 years to complete. The final stages of this heroic endeavor (footage formatting and soundtrack selection by the film makers) will be broadcasted live on national TV.
RyanD

climber
Nov 14, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
First got on it on oct 17!!

Climbed the first 9 pitches in 6 hrs !!

It will be over by the weekend.

This is not proving to be the test for him that many thought it would be.

Myself I'm not surprised. He is just a kid out there having the most fun.

Stoked to see him hike this thing.

nah000

climber
no/w/here
Nov 14, 2016 - 06:33pm PT
nothing to add really...

but can't help but just say i'm super excited that while the rest of us argue about whether or not the world is burning, that mo fo is out there going about his business takin' names, kickin' ass, and gettin' shIt done...

the combination of the transparency regarding his seemingly, at the time, ridiculously ambitious goals, and his progress throughout the process, has been one of the coolest things i've been able to bear witness to with regards to rock climbing...

fUckin eh adam! [and pavel as well!]
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Nov 14, 2016 - 09:23pm PT

Shitty cell phone pic passing through today. If you look close you can see them below their ledges. It was in the low thirties, that rock must feel great on the skin. Hope he gets it.
nopantsben

climber
europe
Nov 15, 2016 - 02:31am PT
meanwhile, the free heart route got repeated free over a couple days by seb berthe, a belgian climber from the gym in arlon ...

clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 15, 2016 - 02:53am PT
I spent two tries and I was like thinking, hmm, maybe my skin isn’t really good enough to do it, which would be pretty complicated. Luckily, after I good fight, I did it.

Nice.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Nov 15, 2016 - 05:14am PT
meanwhile, the free heart route got repeated free over a couple days by seb berthe, a belgian climber from the gym in arlon ...

And the Dihedral got repeated by Verhoeven, turning into a nice little free crag.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 15, 2016 - 08:04am PT
Rope solo in a day of Freerider, by Pete Whittaker:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70794/pete_whittaker_makes_all-free_rope_solo_of_el_cap_in_a_day

Lot's of activity!
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Nov 15, 2016 - 09:57am PT
The full length film about TC's and KJ's ascent of the Dawn Wall is a huge undertaking featuring multi-level difficulties and plagued by self-doubt. This daunting undertaking might take as long as 7 years to complete. The final stages of this heroic endeavor (footage formatting and soundtrack selection by the film makers) will be broadcasted live on national TV.

So they are waiting until no one cares anymore?
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Nov 15, 2016 - 10:39am PT
My guess is trying to create a second wave of interest by timing it w Caldwell's book.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 15, 2016 - 11:56am PT
https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment

Really exciting Adam's notes about previous day of making first 9 pitches:

Black Diamond
21 hrs ·
Update: Battling Heat and Sharp Holds, Ondra Blazes Through First 9 Pitches
“We got up at 1:30 a.m. after only a couple of hours of sleep, but a few rest days gave a feeling of actually feeling fresh. It was also pretty cold down in Camp 4 so I was hoping for some good night conditions. But the climate on El Cap is crazy. Only when we reached the base of the wall, it was easy to feel the temperature difference. Trying not to be shaken and trying not to get myself out of a good mood, I just ignored it, laced up my shoes and started climbing.
“Pitch 1 (5.12b) is a slick slab, and I was curious about how it would feel in the dark. Fortunately it went all right. Pitch 2 (5.13a) and pitch 3 (5.13c) are both quite insecure and somewhat bold (or I cannot just place pro), but darkness might have helped me to have less fear and I did them easier than expected. Pitches 4, 5 and 6 (5.12b, 5.12d and 5.13c) went all right and soon I was under the main problem of the day—pitch 7. Even though it is all on fixed gear, it is protected only by beaks and copperheads. Not the most reliable protection, but I kept my head cool … until my foot slipped and I fell. The protection held and I lowered myself down, pulled down the rope and headed back up there. This time my foot did not slip, but I really wanted to make sure I would not fall, so I was pushing with my feet onto the sidewall of the layback as hard as I could. It paid off and soon I was at the anchor.
“I almost thought the goal of the day was done—only two more pitches to go (5.13d and 5.13c). Not that I underestimated the following pitch, which is ultra sharp and ultra bouldery. I just placed my foot imprecisely and off I went into the air. I ruined my skin a little bit, which started sweating a lot. I went for another try, still confident. I did the crux move, but my left hand was so sweaty that I was unable to move. For the third go, racing against the sun coming down the wall, I could not rest but gave it a try anyway. I was nervous!
“Luckily, one minute before the sun would hit me on the wall when I was at the crux, a little breeze picked up which helped to dry up the skin a little bit and I sent the pitch. I was on cloud nine and quickly finished the next pitch too.
“Now it is about surviving the heat on the portaledge and resting for tomorrow. Hopefully it will cool down a little bit. Pitches 10, 11, 12 and 13 are on the program (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b and 5.13b).”

–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, November 14, 2016.

What is news from today?
Tomorrow weather is not a splitter in the Valley, - it is going to be the rest day
John M

climber
Nov 15, 2016 - 12:02pm PT
You know you are on the edge when a small breeze is the difference in sending or not sending. Just amazing.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 15, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
What's impressive is the pace this guy is dispatching the pitches. He certainly put the work in, having projected the route for nearly a month now, and I trust he knows or is familiar with all the moves and the holds are all ticked etc. But sending 9 pitches of 5.12 and 5.13 so fast and in the dark bodes well for his chances on the next bit. Good luck. Quite the drama looking on.
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