Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
|
|
I'd like to repeat Mike.'s ask of Albert for info on how to remove wedge bolts.
The US Fixe distributor's web site suggests always drilling a little deeper than the length of the bolt. Then you can tap it back into the hole before covering it. Seems counter-intuitive allowing a void for water to freeze-thaw.
You can also hack-saw it off and then tap it back into the hole.
I think the spinning method is for bolt removal when you want to re-use the hole. Which Erik admittedly never does because he believes an old hole likely has rounded edges which leads to bolt failure.
Interestingly, the Fixe installation video recommends making a rounded edge for easier installation of 5-pc powers 1/2" bolts.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Just over tighten the bolt until the threads snap and push the rest of the stud into the hole, then patch ......
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
Thanks Ney and Werner.
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
Just over tighten the bolt until the threads snap and push the rest of the stud into the hole, then patch ...... This is what I do as well. It's useful to have a box wrench with only 6 sides (not 12 as is typical) to prevent stripping out the corners of the nut.
Also - particularly for old or beat up stud bolts - it's useful to have a very small flat file (or triangular) so you can de-burr the nut in case it was whacked during installation and has a burr or two which prevent you from getting the box wrench on.
A punch is nice for tapping the broken stud into the hole - you can use a 3/8" bolt (e.g. the bolt core from a 1/2" sleeve bolt).
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Doesn't matter if it's 20 seconds from the road or 10 miles back from the road.
It doesn't even matter who the players are either.
Just chalk this one up for providence because if we as humanity are not careful we will soon wish we had been .....
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Now get back into your straight jacket and answer the door... they are here to help.
Classic.
|
|
Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
|
|
So, does the aggressive crowbarring on Mideast Crisis counts as altering the landscape? How about all his landmoving to build a sleeping platform? Tree limbing on an industrial scale?
I find his writeup to be quite rich...
|
|
Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2015 - 10:16am PT
|
The number of "woots" in the new Sloan guide will depend on how much he uses the "Find/Replace With" function (aka "Sloanlibs") when he's editing the raw text in Microsoft Word. Judging from his previous contributions, it'll go something like this:
FIND "outrage" / REPLACE WITH "interest"
FIND "unanimity" / REPLACE WITH "controversy"
FIND "shocked" / REPLACE WITH "super stoked"
FIND "retrobolting" / REPLACE WITH "bolt replacement"
FIND "JLP" / REPLACE WITH "Tommy Caldwell"
FIND "c wilmot" / REPLACE WITH "Alex Honnold"
FIND "Jensen" / REPLACE WITH "Jenkins"
FIND "!" / REPLACE WITH ", woot!"
FIND "." / REPLACE WITH ", woot!"
FIND "," / REPLACE WITH ", woot,"
FIND "F*#k y'all," / REPLACE WITH "Woot Woot!"
Edit:
FIND "the Japanese tourists who I believe wanted me to take their picture" / REPLCACE WITH "everyone I've talked to"
FIND "dumbfounded silence" / REPLACE WITH "positive feedback"
Example:
Hey Gang,
I appreciate all the [interest] you've shown in my ongoing [bolt replacement][, woot!] Like I said, [everyone I've talked to] has been [super stoked] about the midpitch anchors I've been adding to Valley free climbs[, woot!] Opening up these former free climbs to aid practice has generated a lot of [positive feedback] from all the YMS guides I know[, woot!]
Surprise surprise[, woot,] the [controversy] with which you've greeted my improvements means this ethical debate is far from over[, woot!] What else is new?
[Woot Woot!]
Erik Sloan
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
|
Haha, best one yet!
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 11:41am PT
|
Nice work, Albert! Cheers.
Werner wrote:
Just over tighten the bolt until the threads snap and push the rest of the stud into the hole, then patch ......
Has anybody been able to do this with 1/2" studs?
If so, I'm imagining a REALLY big wrench.
Please advise.
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
|
Slide a pipe over the wrench for a ghetto breaker bar.
I've snapped lug bolts on a truck; I imagine 1/2" couldn't be any worse.
|
|
Heather Whatever
Sport climber
Yosemite National Park, CA
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 06:56pm PT
|
I totally understand not agreeing with Erik's actions, but did every one of you suddenly lose every ounce of decency? Most of you are grown men, get a grip on your emotions! Jeez...
Love ya Erik! I'm choosing to stay neutral on this one, for fear of being ripped to shreds by these keyboard warriors
|
|
MikeMc
Social climber
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
|
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
|
The Woot of All Evil
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
|
331 posts, yikes....imagine how many a good climb could garner!
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 11:45pm PT
|
Slide a pipe over the wrench for a ghetto breaker bar.
I've snapped lug bolts on a truck; I imagine 1/2" couldn't be any worse.
That idea crossed my mind, but it's one thing to use an extension pipe on the ground where you can easily put your weight into it - but quite another to get stable enough to get any real leverage on a monsterous 1/2" stud while hanging on a rope or at a belay.
Since it sounds likely that there are more retrobolts in need of chopping, I would love to see this technique performed first hand if anyone would like to give a demo. ;-)
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2015 - 09:16am PT
|
^^ That's a great idea.
But it never occurred to me to bring alders on a free climb! ;-)
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2015 - 09:28am PT
|
did every one of you suddenly lose every ounce of decency
Every one? Read the thread again. Your's is a common excuse, used to justify what you want to think. In reality there is quite a range of feelings and words about Erik. MANY people on this thread have applauded his bolt replacement work while condemning his retrobolting. Sure there are some here who are very angry and taking things to far, but that doesn't have anything to do with the things Erik is doing that the great majority of the community is against.
woot of all evil
Haha, good one!
|
|
patrick compton
Trad climber
van
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2015 - 09:33am PT
|
I say this: If you erase my sh#t swastika, I will paint a new one.
best belly laughs in a long time, thanks Bad Acronym.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
|
Thanks for posting that here Heisenberg.
What a load of two-faced BS.
So you aid up Churchbowl Tree and part of Book of Revelations then you are ready for the Nose? Not by a long shot even if Sloan waves his magic wand over you thrice.
If you really can't figure out how to exit Boot Flake then you probably aren't going to finish the Nose anyhow. Sloan's lazy method puts maximum wear on that anchor when a simple rappel works just fine. Expert nothing.
Who are these disciples if not more illegal clients?
Time for Sloan to get the boot on this site for simply undermining CMac's revenue source which is guidebooks including a free climbing guide to Yosemite.
Without the ST Sloan is nothing as he should be.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!