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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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And of course anything with holds,manufactured, specifically for free climbing, ie chipped, chiseled, drilled etc, by definition is an aid clmb and Cannot be considered free. Not like that distinction is ever made anymore 💩💩
Cosmic, perhaps Jangly Little Penis?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Best thread of 2015 so far. Actually about climbing.
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Some more questions:
1. If Donini leads Supercrack and leaves his gear and place and pulls the rope so you can climb it, what do you call it? (gear placement are 50 ft apart)
2. If a classic route in Frankenjura is equipped with permanent fixed draws? Is it a redpoint if you had no choice about draws or no draws?
3. If the Hillary Step is fixed by Sherpa Guides and you grunt up it jugging while standing on an aluminum ladder, wearing $2000 down jumpsuit, after paying a $50,000 peak fee and a $25,000 guide fee, did you really climb Everest? Can you call your self a mountain climber? Or are you a mountain tourist?
4. If you show up at Tahquitz rock, and you've never been there before, and you have no guidebook, and you go up there after a rain so there is no chalk or anything, and you climb what ever looks good, and no bolts are clipped or even seen, was it an FA? Or, pink-FA?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Careful guys, what if it's Jilted Loathsome Pussy?
;)
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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DMT nails it for the win!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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The guy who puts the draws up is a better climber than he who cannot.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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& the better climber is the better person.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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You'll have to ask someone better.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 11:51pm PT
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honest question Big Mike: why do you care? [or is this purely a supertopo demographic pandering troll?]
Nah000- While I would love your to answer your question I grow tired of parroting my position. If you would like to have a discussion on this topic with me, I invite you to read the thread so you can understand my position a little better.
The length of this thread is in fact an indication of how many times I have repeated myself for people who refuse to read what I have said, and how patient I have been to answer the same question repeatedly.
but good luck with your proselytizing... you've come to the one place that attracts a demographic, who have by and large never played the game that hard sport red pointing is about, but still think their opinions are somehow relevant to that game...
and so with nothing but love and rockets: this topic on this board is about as informative and enlightening as a discussion about "Does A5+ really exist?"
on a bouldering board...
Had you read the thread, you would understand that the point has nothing to do at all with whether one has played the game "at that level" but a definition of language which has been crucified to render a perfectly good term, less specific.
Cosmic, perhaps Jangly Little Penis?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!
Competition in nomenclature is for the librarians to argue.
I find it disingenuous to use the term redpoint this way. It dilutes it's meaning so that the user may leave out more information. The term for me, describes a specific style. Free, with fixed gear in place.
As Clint has said, fixed gear includes perma-draws, and most of the higher end sends, typically are in places where this type of fixed gear is in use.
So in this case it would be entirely correct to use the redpoint terminology, and obviously clipping your own draws to the perma-draws would be jingus anyways.
The problem is that the mags have used this term and misused it, so now everything is a redpoint. Pre placed gear or not. What next? Will this become acceptable usage in high end trad climbing sends??
So if your really concerned that I don't consider your new send a redpoint, put perma-draws on it.
locker style spacing.
LOL!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 10, 2015 - 04:18am PT
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It comes from out of the gyms and the whole upside down ness that my anti social refuge has been taken over and dominated by a, less fit for the climbing game, population.
A population of "show me" Let me follow - you, or tape or colored holds -
no using every hold that is cheating,"
" but if I touch the chains it is second only to an onsight flash, even though I hung every other move."
I can not and do not climb inside so that means that I am not a part of a climbing pack of fools.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 10, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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It was like "Romper room"...
In 2003 Bob Walton and myself spent a few weekends putting up a 5.10b drilling on stance, one hole took two trips. Further down the wall some new generation climbers were rumored to be hanging on hooks putting up a 5.8.
They called their route Cool Daze and we called our's Romper Room in jest, because the disparity of styles was so ludicrous.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 10, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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Now I'm confused. Should it be the Pink Dawn Wall?
( it occurs to me that yanqui doesn't like the color pink. What's up yanqui? Don't be a hater, bro. Think Pink)
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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May 10, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 09:09am PT
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Erik- Is there really a problem with having an actual discussion about climbing here?
I know for a fact that people are enjoying it. Would you rather get back to our regularly scheduled political debates?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 10, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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Should it be the Pink Dawn Wall?
Mister E. Nice pink shirt, sets off the tie and suspenders well.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 10, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 10, 2015 - 09:29am PT
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In 2003 Bob Walton and myself spent a few weekends putting up a 5.10b drilling on stance, one hole took two trips. Further down the wall some new generation climbers were rumored to be hanging on hooks putting up a 5.8.
They called their route Cool Daze and we called our's Romper Room in jest, because the disparity of styles was so ludicrous. Wow, you sound so bad ass! Hopefully that's what you were going for.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 10, 2015 - 09:37am PT
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Wow, you sound so bad ass! Hopefully that's what you were going for.
Now I am blushing deep pink.
The route we did next was even more badasser!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 10, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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Erik- Is there really a problem with having an actual discussion about climbing here?
I don't think MisterE is talking to you Big Mike. He just has this really awesome new MEME this morning and couldn't find a better place to put it.
Great MEME.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 10, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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Ha, right on clinker.
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