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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 16, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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A little photo bump to spur interest in further new routing. Another unclimbed formation only a 25 minute relatively level approach from what i now call "The Sphinx" parking area. Lots of long single pitch crack climbs.
John, good lines and belay stations now on the photo. Ask Bob for a name for the left hand route which i put at pitch1; 130 or 170 feet dependent on start location 5.5. pitch2 165 feet 5.8. pitch 3; 50 feet 5.7. pitch 4 125 feet with a 5.9 move or two. Stepping out pitch 1; 185 feet 5.8+. pitch 2; 115 feet 5.9 because of the first move off the belay, the rest is pretty consistent 5.8. Laine, Bob and i looked at that offwidth looking thing high on the south face and first off its incredible it went at only 5.7, second you've got to be kidding with the seventy foot estimate, thats got to be at least a hundred. You guys are climbing with seventy meter ropes and therefore things seem a bit shorter to you.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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That works. And that new area looks pretty freekin sweet. Sphinx it is.
It's not the 70m ropes, it's just that I suck at estimating vertical distances. Probably best I tie knots in the ends on unknown raps. We were ogling some of the northern formations while we were there as well.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 16, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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The Sphinx looks like it hosts some really nice cracks, Rick. This place is great. The FAs go so smoothly, I'm averaging 2 per day, crazy! No real additional work needed. Locate, rack, send, done. Just that easy.
I'm hoping to get out there again for a day next weekend, maybe I can bag three.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 16, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Sphinx is what im calling the original formation that we have quite a few lines on now Laine. Hell look at Johns lined picture above, you can even see the beard, arm, and paw with just a little imagination.
John that new formation I posted above is up the road and 200 yards beyond the spring,turn off the road to the left and up the hill another 200 yards to a saddle. At that point look southwest slightly downhill and youll see the left hand profile. Another 200 yards to the base. All distances are approximate.
I really like finding new crags, doing a few routes, then finding a handfull of others that enjoy the experience. Have at it guys.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 16, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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I see it Rick. Cool crag! So good to see Hillrat out there getting after it!!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 17, 2015 - 06:39am PT
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Sphinx - great name - I like it
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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A bit eroded over tke eons, nut still pretty obvious in the route line picture. Don't you think Bob? After you get your rock crawlin 4x4 in shape its off to the temple of Luxor on down the ridge.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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Elsewhere in the area:
Circa 2012: this is the single pitch short thing on the approach to the Sphinx. I'd say the crack runs maybe 5.4, with a huge flat top and some good anchor points, with an easy scramble down on the south end. 60-70 ft tall? and several other, harder lines available that haven't been done. Probably would make a good top-rope area with a few bolts.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 17, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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John you're only a couple miles south of Luxor Peak in the top photo. That's where sone of the largest fornations in the range lie. That buttress below and straight in line with Brenda in the same picture could be pretty good also.
EDIT : I believe the crag in the third picture of your post above is the crag with all the cracks I posted the picture of. Perhaps my estimate of approach length is just a wee bit light.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:12am PT
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Troubleshooting 4x4 completed! 4 new BF Goodrich tires, new front axle
actuator installed. Drivers door latch repaired & drivers window repaired.
New compressor for air lockers ordered, should arrive this week.
Will be close, but should be finished & ready to go by the time you get back
from NM
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:55am PT
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Thats great Bob, definitely get us closer, but we might just have to resort to dirtbikes to get us within reasonable approch of Luxor.
In the meantime here is a picture of The Obelisk, The Sphink' companion crag which catches the morning sun earlier. Three routes here previously described and pictured in this thread: The left crack, Tad's Siren Song (yes Hocking we were discussing your april visit while putting it up) , and Park Lane. Room for plenty more.
In case you haven't noticed I'm leaning heavily towards calling this 3-5 mile chunk of mountaintop "The Egyptian Ridge". It's written in stone and with some reference to the northern locale officially written on the map.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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I've been on the east side of Luxor hunting chukar. Go over the pass, north past the ranch on the east side of the range, and watch for roads heading back up the mountain. We parked at the bottom and hiked up. The road on top appeared traveled, but that was a decade ago. There's some other rock up there in the saddle, but not like we've been going after, and I've not explored the west face of Luxor proper.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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Question about exploring Nevada countryside: I'm doing a big loop this summer, and deciding between Hwy 50 from Tahoe area to Great Basin, vs. going through Tuolumne past Mono/120 to Hwy 6. Any input/suggestions?
I assume Hwy 6 is more scenic since it's a smaller road- but how much extra time am I taking on? I'm trying to fit as much exploring (and getting out of the car time) as I can on a 2 week vacation with the kids from SF Bay Area to Yellowstone and back (while tagging the City of Rocks get-together and visiting my bro near Boise). Not sure if I should just gun it as a night drive to Great Basin or take time checking out central Nevada. Lots of inspiring pics in this thread.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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I haven't travelled 6. What I will say about Nevada is that unless you get off the highway, no matter which one, you miss most of the scenic areas. The highways are generally built down through the low desert flatland, and there just isn't much exciting out there. If you want to see sights, do a little research around whatever route you choose. Nevada is littered with mountains, ghost towns, hot springs, rock hounding, wildlife, even fishing. You just don't see it from the blacktop. Often they're accessible via very short, easy side trips that people simply aren't aware of.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 18, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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Yeah Tad, pyramid lake southeast shore is only about 45 minutes away. Great fishing for Lahontan Cutthroat .
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
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Ron, take a look at King Lear on google earth. There's a whole lot of rock, but it all looks like volcanic choss in the pictures on GE.
Now, just a few miles north of that...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 18, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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Bob are you in for going up to our newest crag weds 25th or thurs 26 then again for a second time (after I stash a full rack and ropes) on either weekend day the 28 or 29? I think that's what it will take to put up a few of the very best routes yet. I might leave the gear up there for another week.
Are there any other adventure oriented and in shape climbers in the Reno/Carson area that could also fit in those dates? If so post up or pm if your interested in a little exercise and some great routes.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 19, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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You bet I'm in - you would win!
& would it be great if anyone
joined us!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 19, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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Great Bob, now where are the younger guys? Laine, Chim, T? S, anyone? It's a bit of a hike but not like Purgatory. Hell we'll even take a weekender only if they pack a little more than their fare share since we'll already have the gear there. John has already said he'll be in sacramento that weekend.
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