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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 25, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
alrighty then!
Um, I mean all right then.
Nice to have most of us back on board.

per load up time,
hey, good things come to those who weight,
or,
mediocre things come to those who are late.

Well, what I mean to say in addition is, so I'll just say it,
Someone else once said:
"Hey speed reading or even reading fast, no great value in that. I figure a good book took a long time to write and a lot of slow diligent effort too, so I may as well take my time getting to know it, and begin to savor the words".

Knott that that has anything to do with his thread.
This is just fun and that's worth waiting for too.
Plus it would be neat to have like a thousand post thread which takes 15 minutes to load; I could get a lot of extra stuff done around the house, while I'm waiting for a little natty chatty.

Hey, and oops; I think the pressure from those smiley faces just sprouted some leaks in my 54.6 Kbps pipeline...

Carry on, sally forth.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 25, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
Really sorry to hear that, Locker. I'm very close to my brothers, that has to be rough. Good luck, reach out as needed. There are a lot of people who will do what they can.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
St. Louis
Jul 26, 2006 - 12:19pm PT
Hey hey hey! I'm mean too... Mean as a bowl of jello.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 26, 2006 - 09:22pm PT
Jello is only as mean as its mold and it doesn't hold much of an edge either.

But I have had some mean bundt cake in my time.
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Jul 26, 2006 - 09:31pm PT
Food returns.

What if posters were all women?

Hey Chris, how about a recipe forum?
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 26, 2006 - 09:39pm PT
Hey, there's not going to be a catfight, is there?

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 27, 2006 - 12:00am PT
I just woke up.
We are being righteously trolled here.
Lois = Jenna.

(and we are all fireflies in a little jar called supertopo)
so, figuratively speaking: Chris Mac = John Buitner
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Jul 27, 2006 - 12:09am PT
Lois, welcome to the land of Internet Bitches™.

It's a jungle out there (here).

You said yourself that this is all very new to you, and that you stumbled across this forum.
If we all played nice all the time, can you imagine how uttery fuçking boring it would be?
Just know that 95% of the guys here are beside themselves at the prospect of a good ol' catfight!!
johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 03:20am PT
Hey girls wanna see my glow worm??

(Runs for cover...)

-johnx01
johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 04:37am PT
As promised what I did last Saturday.....

T. and I drove out along the North Wales coast road, to our right yatchts headed out into a pale blue sea from ports in Anglesey.

To out left the northern ramparts of the Carneddau hills reared up straight from the coast, at times the beach, railway line and road were squeezed into a corridor tens of yards wide.

The Carneddau, the highest and largest area of upland Britain south of the Scotland, wild desolate, rolling hills in summer, vicous and deadly in winter when the Atlantic storms batter their tops, there's nowhere to hide. The range runs north-south, lonely roadless valleys cut in on the east and west flanks. We were heading for one in the south western corner. We parked above Bethesda and started a gentle hours walk in to the foot of the crag, the path was good and we followed the the river.

The cliff faces north east, a cool haven in the hellish heat of the UK at the moment, a good choice we thought, it's an unpopular crag, big sprawling and vegetated, it takes a long time to dry out, I'd never been there before, but given the weather at the moment I thought it worth a look for one route alone. The Groove, E1, 5a,5a,5a,5a,4b,4a ***, I don't know what that is in your money, 5.8/9 maybe. It's an unusual grade in the UK, most E1's start at 5b technical, unless they are bold or sustained, I hoped the latter, I wasn't feeling up to the former.

Word for the day was 'sturdy' - to be used at all opportunities, an apt word, a word that got some mileage that day as the climb unfolded. T. sturdily studied the guidebook and offered me the first of the 4 5a pitches, good, I would have done the same, at least we were reading this the same, the last 5a pitch sounded the stunner.

Looking up the opening groove to a legde below a band of overhangs, above which a mass of rock reared like the prow of an ocean liner, our line stayed to the right of the prow for two putches then traversed across at it's foot and followed a groove line to it's left all the way up the cliff.

A quick scope of the first pitch and I was off, into a groove say 70 foot long snaking up to a vegetated ledge, first few moves OK,then hey this is quite steep, then it dawned this was steep and hard no two consecutive moves were the same, infact each move was unique, no continous crack ran up the back of the groove to work a theme, a few moves stand out. A sort of left hand palm down high step with the right foot, rock up and grab and undercut a pocket. And a semi layaway with the right hand for a high reach with the left for a pocket almost on the edge of the groove, followed by an immediate step over to using the right wall.

By the time I'd pulled over and belayed I'd noticed I appeared to have a full body pump, however unusually my forearms appeared untouched, this became the way I arrived at most belays from then on, a physical climb for sure.

T joined me far too quicky, "Sturdy Lead" and headed on up. The next pitch an open corner with vertical flakey holds on the left wall and an initially overhanging right wall, it didn't look like T's cup of tea. Sturdily he struggled up it with a weird back and foot and a quite inventive knee bar at one point, obviously all that running is doing his stamina good. After the overhanging section it seemed all over however he spent as long on the rest of it as he did on the first. My turn came and I came to understand why, arriving at the stance with a "Sturdy Lead T" I dawdled over racking the gear and even indulged in a cigarette before setting out on the next pitch.

The initial moves off the belay involved a step down left onto the lip of the overhang, before a reach across to a spikey flake, the exposure after the previous pitches snapped at my heels, I got the flake and looked up the prow soaring above my head, a 5.11 went up a tiny groove in the prow, I continued my slinking leftwards gratefully. At the end of the traverse a step across took me back into the groove line, and more of the same inventive groove work.

Thirty foot later I was rigging a semi-hanging stance off a flake and a nut, my last hard lead over, I hoped. T. led through. The groove disappeared out of sight maybe seventy foot above my head, T was working hard from the first move till he pulled over the angle change. Progress remained slow and steady, finally a shout of 'Safe'. The guide was right the pitch was a stunner, not as hard as the first two but "sturdy" enough.

We started to relax, a short romp up the next pitch and I was sitting in the evening sun, bringing T up, the final pitch offered a choice, either right or left of a big roof, T chose right and disappeared from view, half an hour later progress had ground to zero. The rope had become jammed and the climbing a little harder than expected, he'd taken a belay and brought me up to a poor stance belayed from nuts at his high point. I led through over some rocky bands and grassy ledges till a shout of 'Twenty feet" caught me 25 feet from easy ground. I made the belay on the rope stretch, T. arrived all apologetic, we unroped and picked our way down the side of the cliff along sheep paths and small sections of downclimbing.

Later that evening we sat on the shore of the lake at Lanberis eating 'Fish and Chips' - Yo T. Sturdy Day!

Oh yeah, on Sunday 'Feckless' was the word of the day.

johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 07:52am PT
Yo Janet

Janet wrote:

"without over-stepping the bounds of decorum on Chris' forum"

I'm sure those bounds have been pushed way beyond anything a little teeth scraping story could take us. Try changing some of the facts and sprinkle a few 'alledgedly's in there, after all that's what the press do.

C'mmon girl, I've been looking forward to this all week, do it, do it for locker.......

STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY! STORY!
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 27, 2006 - 09:53am PT
Finally this thread is heating up!

Allow me MY bit on ST character analysis...

LEB-- Gullible to a fault, thinks she is smarter than she is, has not got a mean bone in her body, means well, 100% FEMALE, wants to help to the point of being meddlesome sometimes, extremely curious, someone who would make a great neighbor, friendly, highly capable of missing the point sometimes, even more capable of missing a joke, and the best comedic straight man/comic foil on the internet. Definitely a bonus to have her on ST for entertainment value alone, and her field of expertise is a bonus.

Locker-- Fruitcake, plain and simple, but not just any fruitcake, no, he's that one that has been passed around for years, acquiring more 'character' than is needed or even desireable. Another facet of the jewel that is ST, but definitely one of the most flawed, LOL.

Crimpergirl-- Hey, it's all about the thumbs, and her feathered friends, and now that she has decided to break out of the sport world and become a true trad gal, woo-hoo! Another nutjob climber, only better looking than most, comes complete with 'different' sense of humor, and most likely worth all the trouble I get into with her. Maybe she will relent and not break my little stick arms.

John-boyx01 or whatever-- best import yet from across the pond, talent for humorous writing beyond most of us here, kind of early to say but I sense another long term asset in this guy, and I expect he will keep us in stitches periodically.

Jenna Johnson-- I luv this meany! Tough girl with a soft underbelly, probably will melt under the right circumstances, hobbies include trolling, more trolling, and climbing (hopefully she does NOT enjoy breaking little stick arms). need more data to do complete analysis.

Juan de Fvckup-- mega-troll extraordinaire, sometimes extremely funny, tolerable as long as he gets his daily dose of TANG.

Karl Baba-- What is the sound of one lobe clacking? More private than we think. Worth reading. Complex. Still collating on Karl.

Ekat-- Nothing short of incredible. One of my favorites of all the people I have met on the internet. Her old man ain't bad either. There is truly magic in them, of more than one kind.

Tar-baby-- Genuine article, nice guy, kind, and GOING TO GET WELL SO WE CAN DO THE HOURGLASS!!!!

Piton Ronbo-- grizzled, tough, rough, funny, interesting.

Anders, AKA Mighty Hiker-- import from Cana-duh, very witty, high-brow humor, definite asset.

Janet-- Canadienne, former GF of a pesky aid climber, nice, good to have around, ads that certain js ne sais quoi, and I predict that one day she will climb, and like it.


Whew, I'm tired. so many yet to mention, eek!


to be continued...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 27, 2006 - 10:38am PT
Well-done Dirty Eyes!
Excellent return on your homework assignment.
Now we just need cartoon characterizations.

Johny Ox Boy, nice little TR;
Hey I'm a little geographically challenged,
But none the less quite intigued.
Was that like a Gogarth Saga?

"There's a new sensation,
A fabulous creation
A danceable solution
To teenage revolution-
Do the strand love,
When you feel love
It's the new way
That's why we say:
Do the strand!"

-Roxy Music
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 27, 2006 - 11:14am PT
johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 11:16am PT
Tarbuster

Yeah, like Gogarth but without the sea below it! I guess it's about 50 minutes drive to Gogarth from Bethesda(where we parked), you been.......?

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 27, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
LOis, dear,

I'm JOKING about the mean women attraction thing. I don't like mean women at all.

See, you are not as smart as you think you are, hahahahahahaahh!

But gullible to a fault, yes indeed. I still laugh about the time I told you I was a reincarnated Hopi indian lesbian prostitute and you believed it.

But Lois, you are priceless, so, don't change anything, and don;t be offended. You help keep this site entertaining, and you certainly contribute to the atmoshpere here in a good way. And I'm sure you are plenty smart, just not as smart as you think, which does not rule out the possiblilty taht smarter peopel surround you, BTW.
johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 03:01pm PT
Lois

Nice annalysis of how women war in paragraphs 1 & 2

Paragraphs 3 & 4 - No, no no, no, no, no! You will write out 500 times,

"I will not indulge in speculative psychobabble on ST in future - it is unbecoming of a lady of science"

In the style of dirtineye:

Dingus Milktoast-- Thinks he's seen everything, probably has seen everything, good Troll Hound, occasionally excercises his 'word spiggot'

johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 03:45pm PT
444

Lois - IT
johnx01

Trad climber
UK
Jul 27, 2006 - 04:01pm PT
446 - The number of the post, remember Lois we're going for 666

Yes IT as in computer technology

Where's that recipe?

-John
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 27, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
Never been out your way John,

Gogarth:
The Strand, Dream of White Horses, of
course are on my list or anything doable given "proper" conditions.

Anyplace steeped in history, or close to a pub, will do as well.
Snowdon, Llanberis, Grit...

Hey anybody reading anything good?
Speaking of Umberto Eco, "Foucaults Pendulum" was steeped in mystical history and quite the wade.

I'm currently plodding through his "The Island of the Day Before", loosely anchored in the history of celestial navigation and clocks, even more spread out, often funny.

Have a nice day Lois.
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