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Fishy
climber
Zurich, Switzerland
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Aug 21, 2012 - 08:51am PT
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A funny little sidebar - I nearly choked with laughter when I read the first comment on the bottom of the NPS page (linked above) describing the rescue.
Just after the official report ends with the usual pitch about how attempting El Cap is a major undertaking requiring loads of technical rigging expertise, a lady felt the need to add the following comment prior to her upcoming trip to Yos:
"I read your blog before my visit to Yosemite. I found it sobering. It made me reconsider my shoe choices and I added trekking poles to my gear list."
Brilliant!
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wivanoff
Trad climber
CT
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Aug 21, 2012 - 09:47am PT
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Thanks for posting that, Chris. Glad you guys survived.
It'd be interesting to hear some more of what you'd do differently after you've had a chance to reflect on how things turned out.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Aug 21, 2012 - 09:56am PT
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I just read the 7 page report and it was much more interesting than the short version and included some good details on the SAR operation. Werner even makes a cameo appearance. I recommend it.
And good luck with the court date.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Aug 21, 2012 - 10:25am PT
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I don't know what to think of all this. In my day, nobody particularly worried about dying. We knew we would eventually. It was up to us and us alone to keep ourselves out of harm's way. Then the "SAR sites" came into existence (I'm speaking of 1970). People got bolder, but not necessarily because of that. The SAR team was disorganized at first, but it got it together fast when national attention was focused on the Dawn Wall.
The idea that the boldness of climbers increased upon the formation of the SAR is likely not going to hold water. It is more likely that Jardine's Friends and similar tools accomplished that. The Roher (sp?) adventure was openly scorned, however. Each and every one of the guys I climbed with avoided rapping like I avoid deer mice. Deadly.
I want to say, too, that until the lights go out, a guy ought to be allowed to do silly (like rapping a wall for the cheap thrills which can escalate to expensive thrills in a heartbeat or over a couple of hours, like in this case) as long as he has the coin to shell out for a rescue. I think a lot of this is wasteful of time and money for the gov't, but at least the SAR boys and girls get paid for their trouble and risk. they are an indispensaable part of the Valley lifestyle now. People, intelligent as they are, get involved in some really stupid maneuvers and I don't blame Werner one bit for his crusty attitude. It's the stupid ones who don't plan adequately who deserve fines. I think anyone dumb enough to go do what Chris G. did (no ascenders, WTF were you thinking?) is in the latter category. Despite his partner's dimness.
Why waste the time on a rap? We mostly thought Tom R. was nutso, but at least the man was a responsible nut.
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jstan
climber
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Aug 21, 2012 - 10:43am PT
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Chris:
A potentially useful thing to do here would be for you to reconstruct how it was you came to decide
you wanted to rappel El Cap. Why that in place of something else? How did this first come to your
attention?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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Most people fail their first time on a wall and bail.
Unfortunately if you fail going down it. The option of going up the way you came is considerably more difficult than the mode you failed doing.
It's not unusual for a wall trip to fail because a partner gets the snail-eye but again not much option to reverse what you did when you are only equipped for rapping.
I remember when all I wanted to be doing was hanging out on the side of El-cap.
I seriously wanted to Rap El-Cap back then but instead I found out about the Fixed lines to Heart and usually Mammoth or above.
When I didn't have enough time or a partner I'd take off at 4 in the morning from Reno head up the fixed lines and solo a pitch or two above mammoth. Or just chill out read a book and take pics of various folks from some great vantage points. Then go back home that night.
So yeah I do understand what you did and I could see myself doing it at that time in my life.
Lessons.
Partners for big routes need to be solid. It is seriously tempting to bring someone along who isn't ready when you are so gungho that you'd be willing to solo it almost. I've made that mistake and It never worked once.
You always want to leave yourself a way out when you are learning. (because you don't know what you don't know) This is usually not a problem when attempting from a ground up normal ascent. Lotsa folks bail.
Having that spare rope would have made a difference. You could have gone down and helped your buddy .. brought him some water.. the ascenders and just being there probably would have helped his moral and got him moving.
Then again it seems to me that it's a good thing you guys didn't keep going (see my last piece of advice)
Sending water down the rope might have been an option but not sure as you may not have been able to flick the rope off the wall enough for it to go down.
This is my most important advice right here. NEVER be in a rush. When things seem to be getting messy and a mistake is made STOP! Rethink what you are doing. have a talk and change the atmosphere in your heads. The vast majority of mountaineering accidents did not begin with the thing that ended it. It began way before. For example those bee stings on your buddies legs? Maybe even that far back. Then pulling the knotted end up the rope. Then forgetting to take ascenders on his lead. It's usually a series of small mistakes.. STOP THE SERIES when it first rears it's head.!!!!! Stop relax chill for an HOUR or TWO if you have to. The first weird error is the one that should make you take notice even when it wasn't a real big deal.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Sending water down the rope might have been an option
Richard said he had a 45 pound pack with him during his epic on the rappel off of Camp 5.
What was in there?
No water or just full of rocks?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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This thread has lifted my spirits immeasurably.
Heretofore I thought I was the Dumbest Man on Earth. I'd say the OP bears
plenty of responsibility for letting his partner go down without the jugs
or prussiks. I won't address the issue of them both not having them.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Ah, the innocence of youth.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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That sucks Chris. I know what it is like to have a partner freeze up on you... These guys have some good points tho, you got lazy with the rope and it cost you. If not you could gone and bitch slapped him and given him some water and the jugs and tell him to get his punk ass back up that rope!!!!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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^^^^
Werner told him to do it...
Sorta like a fireman setting a blaze to drum up work...!
Since this is the Internet, I want to say I'm posting the following without an angry or condescending tone... but you guys did screw up badly
I mean, you're rapping El Cap. There's not that much to keep track of but in the first third you managed to make several major mistakes from sheer not paying attention (and how could you not pay attention with the yawning void below you)
Like pulling the rap rope with the knot still in it and then leaving it as trash. If you were confident the knot would stay, it would be safety and duty both to ascend and get it back.
and what's with being crazy dehydrated and a near dead cell only part-way into the journey?
And then managing to forget the ascenders and sending the weak guy down in a section where it was uncertain?
Simply having your wits about you would have saved all these troubles and yet after the first screw-up you didn't heighten your mindfulness and checks.
We all screw up and there for the grace of God go I. But the way the universe works, if you ignore the first warning, the second warning gets harsher until you wake up.
Sounds like your partner had no business being up there and that makes you responsible for him. Sorry it went bad but I'm cool with ya'll getting fined in this case.
(but hey, I wouldn't blame you for going back, just make sure you have your act together when you do)
Peace
Karl
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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Thanks for sharing the story Chris. That, and having the innocent naivety to go for it, took a lot of courage. Notice how many fewer people are bashing you now? More like a fatherly "You wouldn't believe the dumb sh#t my kid did last weekend..."
We're glad you're alive to tell us about it. Hopefully your court appearance doesn't leave you too strapped to climb for a long time. Maybe you could request community service in the Valley instead of a fine? :)
Kris
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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In some cases learning the hard way is the best, because it tends to stick with you. Thanks for posting down Chris. Either send me an email with your address or post it here and I'll send some money towards a new rope. Pretty sure others will too. Climb on! or Rap on!
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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Since we're all passing on pearls of wall wisdom, try learning some wall communication skills next time. To wit:
No you fat f*#k I'm not f*#king calling you a f*#king chopper so you better get your sh#t square down there and jug your fat f*#king ass back up here!!!!
Edit: Oh and your mom WOOHOO!!!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Chris,
Great job on the follow up. Took some stones to come back here and present the facts and take the blowback. Things could have gone a lot worse if it wasn't for the SAR folks, but you know that now.
Doing anything over a 3K Void is serious sh*t and requires serious thought and preparation.
Live and Learn.
Would love read a TR of you climbing the Big Stone some day.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Chris,
Glad you guys are still with us. Re-reading your first post, you came off as having your act pretty much together. I tended to agree with Werner, ("any competent well rounded climber can do it"). I thought you should go for it. Reading your trip report, I see that maybe that was not the case. A lot of issues right from the start. Maybe it was a good thing you guys got stopped when you did, it could have been a lot worse you know.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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Thanks for the post Chris. As has already been stated, that took some balls.
A note to Reilly about his comment - you may want to re read the thread. His partner did have prussiks and was basically refusing to use them or even listen to Chris or respond on the radio. That dude was in full shutdown mode, and I can see where hanging over the lip of the Roof could be pretty damned scary for someone that's had very little or no exposure.
I have to agree with the statement that you probably shouldn't have gone up there without the proper gear and more experience. Most accidents are the end result of a series of incidents, and you're lucky this didn't get worse then it did.
Chopping the rope, not having dual ascenders, and not being 100% sure of the route and most importantly, your partner's abilities - all contributed to this.
From reading your report, I get the impression that you learned a lot from this, realized your mistakes, and will work hard to insure that you are never in that situation again. Too many people don't have the ability to take an honest look at themselves and admit that they are wrong.
I look forward to seeing a future report from you about climbing the Cap - from what I have heard it seems to be within your abilities with the right partner. And if you do decide to rap the route again to get over this incident, do yourself a favor and go with the Mad Bolter.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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There is nothing on all 700+ channels on my TV that could have provided as much entertainment value as this thread.
And Chris' misadventure is only the smallest part of the drama/comedy.
As Mr. Spock was wont to say, "Fascinating".
:0 Phyl
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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There is no place in this whole thread I ever said "Go for it".
This was projected originally by the stupid troll Farouk along with cragman also trying to project that idea somehow in an indirect way.
Nor did I ever imply for them to outright do it.
All I ever implied was don't blow the op off with all your doom and gloom responses without even knowing the original poster at all.
These guys have to take full responsibility for their own actions.
Various individuals encouraged them instead to climb the route instead of rappelling.
If these individuals had no faith in them rappelling due to speculations on their so called "inexperience" then how the hell would these individuals encourage them to climb the route is beyond me.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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My 2 cents for ya' Chris: I'm with Big Mike, Baba, and Yo.
Here comes the crotchety and lame part of my opinion, feel free to skip it:
I disagree about your brass balls though - your writeup kind of pins everything on your partner while glazing over your own mistakes. That's a big fat red line that you don't cross in my book: In climbing, you're a partnership, not two individuals. You don't hang your partner out to dry - if you trust him enough to put your life on the line with him, you two are in it together, and you have to own the outcomes together.
Edited to shorten and rethink.
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