Nose Record...

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jun 22, 2012 - 01:10am PT

There is a fairly good article in the San Jose paper this afternoon about the record:
http://www.mercurynews.com/other-sports/ci_20909668/reclaiming-his-climbing-record-lafayettes-hans-florine-alex

One of the interesting things Hans said is that he's done with the Nose record - time to move on. Sounds wise!

"I'm not going to do a faster time. If someone else breaks my record, I'm OK with letting them keep it. I'm done with The Nose. I told my mom and my wife that, before they could tell me. In some ways, it's like retiring. But I'm only retiring from that particular record -- there'll be others to go after."

gonzo chemist

climber

Fort Collins, CO

Jun 22, 2012 - 01:39am PT

Randisi,

I think A.H. was part of a North Face-sponsored FA of a limestone big wall in Burma a couple years back.

I think he did some FAs in Chad a year or two ago as well. There was a R&I article about it. He got really sick with like dysentary or something also on that trip. That's very vague, I know. But that's all I've got. It sometimes seems like a guy of his ability could very nearly climb anything. I mean, with the type of terrain that he's comfortable on, he could truly set a new standard for traditional, ground up, on-sight FAs.

zeta

Trad climber

Portland, OR

Jun 22, 2012 - 03:16am PT

I have been riveted by this, Hans and Alex just blew my mind with how fast they went. So cool and inspirational.

for those wanting more video, check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYtdiFeucYA

mouse from merced

Trad climber

merced, california

Jun 22, 2012 - 03:56am PT

That was dramatic.

And preternatural?

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Jun 22, 2012 - 04:23am PT

From the mecury news article

"On Father's Day, when most dads were lounging in a La-Z-Boy or working the buffet at their favorite restaurant, Hans Florine was reclaiming a world record.
The Lafayette resident, whose first speed climb was performed nearly 25 years ago on a 20-foot boulder in a cow field, required only 2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds to scurry up the vertical face of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Blazing past the 2:36.45 record set in 2010 by Sean Leary and Dean Potter -- who had eclipsed Florine's 2008 time of 2:37.05 -- Florine and his climbing partner Alex Honnold, a Sacramento native, shaved nearly 13 minutes off the world's best time."

I thought Hans was breaking his own record. Isn't this wrong? I can't believe Dean and Sean have had the record for a couple years now

peace

karl

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jun 22, 2012 - 04:53am PT

It's correct, Karl - Sean and Dean broke the record (by 20 seconds) in 2010.
If you are not sure, it's listed right on Hans' page:
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
(record progression is at the bottom of the page)