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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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I'm coming back at the end of next week to climb Shortest Straw with Cheyne so there will be a chapter two of sorts.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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cheers!
can't wait... more batteries!
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Anne
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Proud!!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Glad you had a good climb Mark. Cheyne is the man!
You have confirmed my fears that those pitches would shut me down hard!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Don't need no stinkin' gri-gri!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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This pile of tat would filled 3/4 of a typical paper grocery shopping bag. I clean all but 3 pieces of tat on the entire route, I used only 1 and could have avoided using even that if I had thought ahead.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 10, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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Hey Mark....if you aren't gonna do anything with those old slings, can we use them for anchors at Joshua Tree?...slings are pricey.....thanks in advance...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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Dang, Todd, if I had known that I wouldn't have tossed them, I'll save them next time and send them off to you!
;-)
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 10, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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That's a hell of a pile. Do you clean them on lead or cleaning?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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50-50 some on the lead, some while cleaning. The KB traverse was cleaned on the lead. All the tat, if I cleaned it, I did not use it even for a hand hold to scope a placement.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jun 10, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Quite the full value adventure, great job and thanks for sharing! I look forward to some pics and prose when you have time to post up :-)
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Jun 10, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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The Boys are going climbing again. Jordan and Bill should be in the Valley tomorrow attempting the Nose so... Anyone seeing a Canadian flag (Jordan now lives in Canada, "That Evil Commie bastard!") Super Please let me know where they are at and how they appear to be doing.
I'll be home on baby duty but don't feel bad for me. I get to play on the new climbing wall Bill built for me. He's a thoughtful guy. :)
Hugs,
AFS
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Jun 10, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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Nice work, Mark. I'm sure it was rough making that call, but it was the right thing to do. Lots to live for!!
Cheers on a fine ascent!
-Matt
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 11, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Rainfly test.. lol.
Bet it's one of the few spots on the route that get touched by rain let alone run-off. Well most of it anyway..
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jun 11, 2012 - 03:02am PT
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lol! classic Mark. That was the night before the last day or two?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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The next day was clear and really cold. It seems like it all caught up with me right then and my body seized up. I slept really late that morning and was full of aches and pains for the rest of the day and climbed only one pitch.
I would have been so much better off if I had left my camp at the previous anchor.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jun 11, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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great effort mark.
get her next time.
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