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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 18, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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It was my first multipitch as well back in the prehistoric days.
I didn't quite get the Fingertip concept and tried to walk the crack taking a giant swinging whipper.
The guy I was climbing with was really pissed off. He was convinced I'd ruined his brand new kernmantle rope by taking that big a fall on it.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Apr 19, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Brother Gaines: Remember that route we did called Bukatude with that impossibly hard start that we fiddled with for hours before we ever got it? And later, the route, Nirvana. That had some fine climbing on it. Wonder if those routes ever get done. I'e always wanted to do Moondance as well and never have.
Brother John: Yes, I do remember Bukatude, but not where the name came from. Probably a reference to some thing or some place you encountered on one of your forays to Papau New Guinea, or when you crossed Borneo?
You led the FA of Bukatude in 1985. The start had a hellacious boulder problem right off the ground, and we rated the thing 5.13a. Later a hold broke off, rendering that start impossible, but I figured out a way to traverse in from the left, across a slab, at 11d, sort of resurrecting the climb at an easier grade.
At the top of the pitch is a big, loose flake, 1/2 the size of a card table, and if you're not careful you could yank it right off. As Darrell said, the Bukatude never became popular. At that time you were, shall we say, on top of your game, and I belayed you that same summer when you came very, very close to freeing that first pitch of Ishi with a big dyno off the foothold up to the base of the corner/dihedral. You latched the base of the corner, but couldn't hang it. I believe that was the year that Darrell led the whole pitch free (1985?) cranking on thin dimes where you threw the big mo.
Nirvana, on the other hand, has actually acheived some modicum of popularity, being a fine direct start to Valhalla's second pitch. Of course if you've never done Valhalla you've got to do it the standard way first, but the Nirvana direct allows you to go right into the crux on the second pitch with no rope drag, all the way up to Valhalla's pitch 2 anchor, in one long, classic lead past 11 bolts. It's a Sunshine Face classic, as is Moondance, to be sure.
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Gary
climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
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Apr 19, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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I didn't quite get the Fingertip concept and tried to walk the crack taking a giant swinging whipper.
Ha! That took some nerve to walk that crack, TGT. Maybe I'll try that this year. :-)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 19, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Hey Bob,
I can't remember, did I ever get a topo of the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds to you - "Shine On"? Put that up a couple of years ago with Mike and Ian Graham. How cool is that? Mike was on the FA of Obscured, and then many a moon later also on the variation FA. Pretty good route, things are reasonably spaced so it would more or less continue to have the feel of the climbing you have to do on Obscured. Since you're up there a bit, have you done it?
Those moves over the Obscured roof are good, eh? But don't clip that cheater Superfluous bolt.
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deejay
Trad climber
AV
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Apr 19, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Mechanics Route is a much better route at 5.8 than Traitor Horn. Traitor Horn is just kind of a novelty.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Apr 19, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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Hey Bob,
I can't remember, did I ever get a topo of the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds to you - "Shine On"? Put that up a couple of years ago with Mike and Ian Graham. How cool is that? Mike was on the FA of Obscured, and then many a moon later also on the variation FA. Pretty good route, things are reasonably spaced so it would more or less continue to have the feel of the climbing you have to do on Obscured. Since you're up there a bit, have you done it?
Those moves over the Obscured roof are good, eh? But don't clip that cheater Superfluous bolt.
Never got the topo, if you could send me one that would be great! A more classic finish to a classic route. I heard that if you fall off the crux of Shine On you'll go for a pretty big whipper (20 ft?) 11d? But no R rating?
The topo in the 2001 guide shows Obscured by Clouds going to the first bolt on Superfluous Bolt, since that's the way everyone seems to do it, although I'm guessing that bolt wasn't used on the original Obscured by Clouds ascent, even though Superfluous was done first?
I think it's really cool that Mike Graham went back with you for the Shine On, after doing the first ascent of Obscured by Clouds in 1974! (with Tobin Sorenson and Gib lewis) The new line deserves classic status, no doubt about it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 19, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
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Mike and I discussed the Superfluous bolt. They did not use it. Maybe not show it going there because it is off-route? People can still choose to use it.
That fall size is about right. I took it a few times before we got the bolt in. I think my head was sort of jacked up dreading the obvious thin drilling coming up. One of those things were you can't drill until you're on that lousy wanna-be black knobuloid thingy. And of course the crux seemed like getting on it. One could go bigger on the following climbing but that won't happen.
If for no other reason I would give it an R just because of Obscured already having one. I know people like to require that the run difficulty be within a letter or two of the crux difficulty to get an R, but it seems whacky to me to remove the R when that climbing is shared. Obscured is spicy enough by itself.
Good rock, climbing, and location. Plus the good stuff on Obscured as a bonus. People should do it - but of course I would think that.
For now, yeah, 11d R. Consensous can sort it out.
 serious question: should 20' qualify as an R? Seems kind of a gray distance. Any longer, yes, or shorter, no. That's like, only 10' out.
Ultimatum (my vote for best on the Smooth Soles) gets an R. Routes like that are no-brainers to decide.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Apr 19, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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serious question: should 20' qualify as an R? Seems kind of a gray distance. Any longer, yes, or shorter, no. That's like, only 10' out.
My definition would be "an R-rated route designates a route where a fall at the crux will be disastrous, likely resulting in very serious injury or death."
Maybe that definition is a little too strict, but it gets your attention if you see it in a guidebook.
I saw a guy take a leader fall on Obscured from above the little overhang and break his ankle.
I've seen two leaders fall over 50 ft. on the Guillotine, resulting in some rather serious injuries. Guillotine gets an R rating more as warning than anything else, since if you choose to you can burrow into the chimney for some pro rather than opting to run it out up the lieback, but the lieback is far more aesthetic, and the way most leaders choose to go.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 19, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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I belayed you that same summer when you came very, very close to freeing that first pitch of Ishi with a big dyno off the foothold up to the base of the corner/dihedral. You latched the base of the corner, but couldn't hang it. I believe that was the year that Darrell led the whole pitch free (1985?) cranking on thin dimes where you threw the big mo.
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Yep. But by the time I worked the moves out my tips were cooked. Those moves cranking past the first 4 bolts on that initial bolt ladder were the bidness. All I had to do was come back with the sequence fresh in my mind and it was a done thing. In the meantime that dirty, low-down thieving rat Henny floats the thing and I have to like it.
I could've been a contender . . .
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 19, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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Buck up Marlon!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Apr 19, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Gary..while you are reminiscing about fingertip , i was taking my brother up that , wearing Royal Robbins boots when Rob Muir played through , guiding some clients...I think Clark Jacobs climbed through un-roped also...? When i think about tahquitz , i always remember the sweet scent of Mt. Mahogany on my wool sweater...Lifes' simple pleasures..RJ
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 19, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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craig, many years ago, i tr'ed hangover after backing off the lead 'cuz i didn't trust the fixed mank.
the mp calculus hasn't done a terribly bad job with the top 20, i guess.
i miss the long easy solos on tahquitz.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I played on Hangover once. That thing is hard. I don't remember the details, but I have a vague memory of the moves being awkward? I'll have to go back and give it another try sometime...
I just got back from climbing 15 of the multipitch routes out there last Tuesday, including The Edge. It was quite devastating. I haven't felt so thrashed in a while. Good times, though. Many of them were the classic moderates, and we soloed about 3500-4000' of the climbing. There was a beautiful layer of clouds beneath us all day. It was one of my better days of climbing in a long time. It was quite pleasant to climb through the sunrise and sunset.
We had a rappel setup down Open Book/Flying Circus to save the knees/feet. I think I saw bolts for New Wave. Maybe I'll take a look at it. Hard free lines are always fun. If it's R/X like the guidebook hints, I'll probably not do it though. The line isn't aesthetic enough to warrant that kind of dangerous climbing.
Josh
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Day dreaming about this place/tag bump. Lots of great suggestions in this thread. How much more "winter" could there be?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Pretty dang wintry up there today...probably stay that way for a while longer. Everyone in town is hoping for a 'March Miracle'...we desperately need the precip.
I'll try to post up a recent pic asap...it's really quite beautiful right now.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Got the first ten and number twelve. Spent a long time at the crux of traitor horn on a cold windy day. Just couldn't figure it out. Finally found the jug around the corner. My partner was pissed as he was freezing at the belay below.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Only missing 18 and 19. Aides the pirate
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Pirate? You Cali folks do love pin scars.
That wouldn't be a top 20 climb on the Seward Highway road cut outside of Anchorage.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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This morning was nice and clear....lots of snow on Tahquitz & above. Then it clouded over for the rest of the day.
Suicide's gonna be wetter, because of the aspect. I'll post a pic as soon as I get one.
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