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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Hey Healyje and T Moses Thanks for taking on this huge project! It seems like you've put so much into it. Great work so far.
I'd love to buy one of these when they are ready.
T Moses- All your new stuff looks great. I got my hands on a few of your hangers and can't wait to get a few of the tomahawks! I'll be using your hangers in a couple of weeks...
KEEP IT UP GUYS!!!!
ZAc
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Nice project. Put me down for one.
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couchmaster
climber
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If this is the official list, I'll take 2.
Theron, check your emails. I'll donate the screws that hold the webbing onto the handle.
I can pull it out of my hammer tonight and look, but does anyone know exactly what it was? In the data Joseph shared with me John calls it out as an 8 x 1-1/4. Assume its a standard Phillips Oval sheetmetal screw but want to verify as I want to duplicate the original right on the money.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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I was in for two before and if I LIVE til fall, I'm still in for two, cause I got two friends who would love one and theey'll carry on the climbing on the stuff I liked best, and there is aid and hammering in that place, as well as the rule of hand drilling.
So even if I never get to swing one for the intended purpose, someone will do it for me.
So I'm STILL in for two.
Now, how about getting them done, and while you are at it, cook up a cure for cancer, cause it seems this hammer is taking about as long as a cure, LOL.
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couchmaster
climber
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[confused look here] I just looked at the brand new A5 hammer I'd gotten from Marty, and it looks like there was a hole drilled and a piece of webbing sewn through it. No Screw. Interesting. It appears that John changed the design later. I see pictures of both in this thread alone. [/confused look here]
Theron, if you want screws, I have 8 x 1-1/4 Phillips Oval Sheetmetal Screws and can send them immediately. You can email me at billcoe at gmail dot com.
What do all of you folks think? Screws or No Screws.
Regards
Bill
No screws
Steve Grossmans appears to have a screw (under the tape):-)
Johns drawing
Bill Forrest did it both ways on his Wall Hammers as well but I'm too lame to find pictures of it so you'll have to believe me:-) .
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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You can either:
Go with simple: the 5mm cord drilled though the bottom of the handle works great, makes for an easy clip in loop, and only disadvantage is if you use a holster--anyone still use hammer holsters? But even then it's not too bad.
OR
Go with an addtional 10-15 minutes labor, drill the bottom of the hammer handle for inserting the webbing, now you require a webbing tie in, webbing is probably about the same cost, but now you are looking at having to have a sewing machine on hand to sew the required loop. Joe posted Walt's sketch on how to make the webbing version with screw. It's similar to how Chouinard Yo hammers were done. Oh, yeah, I almost forgot--the biggest pain is that you have to grind down some of the threads on the screw to make sure the threads don't eventually cut the webbing.
I'd say keep it simple.
Theron, I might add that you might find the work required for hammer finishing will surprise you, though I mentioned this way back when this was all a little twinkle in Joe's and other's eyes... But you will be 'da man' when it comes to figuring out efficient ways to accomplish the machine work required, I'm sure. Drilling the biner hole is probably the most hellish part of the job.
I'm looking forward to hearing how it goes.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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looks like Steve G's webbing clip in blew out. Another reason to go for the easy to check, easy to replace 5mm cord drilled through the bottom of the handle.
Or, just ship with no lanyard and let the users do their own. Just like Linux-you gotta be somewhat capable...
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couchmaster
climber
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Thanks John. No screws then would be both easier and probably stronger.
ahhhh, here we go - for posterity more than anything else.
Forrest Hammers on left:
The shorter one has been with me for many years, but it's on perma-loan to Jim opdycke now. I like the longer one, but it's only right as he borrowed it to take it to the valley once and kept it for like 7 years: probably long enough to establish a bond for sure LOL! :-)
Hmmm
I need 2 hammers why? Sorry, ammended statement. If there are any left, I'll take one or 2.
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jbar
Social climber
urasymptote
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If you're starting a list please put me in. You need some Deuce5 representation on the east coast. I'll take two if you can spare them. Just let me know when and where to pay you. If you're looking to do more with them let me know and I'll ask around.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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please add me to the list.
any estimate of final cost on these puppies?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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here was the list 1/11/06 which was a time ago...
2 healyje
1 nature
1 John F. Kerry
1 Knoxville
5 macgyver
2 Dingus Milktoast
1 Mort
2 sbwyliedog
2 yo
1 Mungeclimber (?)
2 JMC
1 dirtineye
1 bulgingpuke
1 T2
3 JuanDeFuca
1 crotch
1 phillip mike revis
1 T Moses
1 Irisharehere
1 mark miller
1 DavisGunkie
1 Mtnfreak
1 Zander
1 jack herer
1 foster
1 Moof
1 Manjusri
1 alasdair
3 OW
1 Festus
1 Brian in SLC
1 Rhodo-Router
1 steelmnkey
1 Ed Hartouni
2 thedus
1 squeaks
1 YetAnotherDave
1 dmitry
1 lazide
1 malaka
2 kev
4 rja
2 mynameismud
1 locker
1 GOclimb
1 grover
1 dave
1 Andy KP
probably more now, or different... I still would like one...
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Couch, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Thanks for the offer of the screws. I wanted to look at the file and ask John about it (he chimed in here already with the answers to unasked questions). I have heard a couple different stories on the screws versus holes. I like the idea of keeping it simple (hole) for production. That also leaves it open for the more adventurous/adept to do what they want (screw).
Thanks to Ed for keeping it straight. I nominate Ed to track orders! Do I hear a second to the motion?
Johh, I'm bouncing a few ideas around in my head for fixturing. Your sketches are thought provoking. Thanks for keeping excellent records. I agree that the finishing is really where it is at. I've got a couple of tricks up my sleeve. ;) The selection of machinery available to me is a little more varied than you had.
For instance: The tangs will be blanked (cut to size) on the shear here. Then the holes punched on the strippit 15 ton punch press. After punching they will be bent on the press brake. That should save a little time. 10,000 square feet of machinery is fun stuff.
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Melvin Mills
Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
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Many thanks to everyone for their work on this. Just sent Ed my request.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Please add me to the list for one. Can't let an opportunity like this go by!
Thanks to everyone for making this happen.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Put me down for one.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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May 11, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Tangs:
304 Stainless Steel 0.090" x 48" x 120" 151 Lbs at 1.45 per pound = 218.95/500 = 0.41
Blanking on Shear = 0.40
Punching of Hole = 0.20
Bending of Angle = 0.30
Deburr = 0.15
Total = 1.46 per tang
The price of stainless fluctuates so it might change by a few cents or so.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Lewis McNeal, the plant Manager of Seymour Manufacturing's Link Handle Division in Sequatchie TN, has just let us know the pattern for the hammer's handle has been found at long last and will be sending us some samples directly.
I have a question for John relative to the grip material. The two A5's I recently bought - one for me to replace the one I took apart for the project, and the other for Tarbuster's auction - both had a very thick, bright, and solid paint on the handles (one yellow, one red) with something akin to sawdust in them. This coating is seems a bit more slick than the grip on my old hammer and on the O.P. Link handles in the box from Conrad. Did O.P. Link source both coatings and changed, or was the thicker one something you came up with originally and then went with the factory grip?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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May 14, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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Hi Joe-
I did two batches of hammers, one with yellow handles, and one with red handles. The second batch had hammer heads that had serial numbers near the A5 logo. The first batch of 500 had no serial numbers.
The grip was a grip that OP Link offered at minimal cost. It should be the same as on the replacement handles I sent to ACE some time back. I think it's a good feature, but plain old hickory might also be a nice option for this batch.
cheers
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
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John, thanks - the hammer I have now has a pretty slick and very thick yellow paint on it with what I interpret to be small woodchips interspered in it. Very different from what the ACE handles had on them which was a very light coat with grit more like sand in it. No idea about the difference? I'll post up some pics of this hammer in a bit.
I like the gritty light grip coat. They have a light blue color available which I was thinking might be good for distinguishing this hammer from the A5's you produced. Also, do you think Ajax would be able to change the logo on the existing mold to 'D5' or would that require a new mold?
[ Edit: Just got off the phone with Theron, and he said he already talked to Ajax about redoing the logo and they recommended against it relative to the life of the mold - no biggie, we'll deal with it... ]
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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Just a note that Theron sent me a couple of handles out of the ACE box and I was wrong - it's the same coating as the hammer I just bought. I believe what's thrown me off is this hammer is barely used and was oiled or lacquered in some way that made it seem quite different when in reality it isn't.
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