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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Maybe I posted the above too late the other day but I'm
thinking I can't be the only one to find it pretty amusing.
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adam d
climber
The Bears, CA
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Classic! Just needs a Spanish translation as well so it's not only directed at the anglos...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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hmmm, interesting thread here. i think lama should be free to rap bolt it, as long as he does not use fixed lines.
Doesn't a rap line constitute a fixed line?
I think Lama should have his ass handed to him on a rusty piton if he rap bolts.
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Conrad
climber
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With a priestly surname rooted in Tibetan Buddhism one would think David would be all about reducing suffering. Can't imagine this controversy is making his life easier and happier for those around him. Certainly creating a bit of hurt here in the climbing community.
A few friends in Nepal have the same last name. Super nice, generous and mindful people. As I suspect David is. Just a little mixed up with the ways, means and end discussion. The free ascent of the Torre sans the heavy tactics is even more meaningful and at the end of the day more "bad-ass", which is what Red Bull seems to be all about.
Just as humans pull dams out of rivers, restoring life in the process, we can apply the same idea to the Compressor Route. By pulling the bolts we would give the spire some of it's strength back. Meastri and the compressor controversy would be a small chapter in climbing history. We learn from our mistakes and in doping so would be upping the ante for future generations. On a personal level I would be keen to revisit it.
I'm a fan of RockStar. It is a better value and the esteemed Peter Croft's beverage of choice, after coffee, of course.
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dickon
Mountain climber
CO
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Mar 18, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
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What would Steve House say about this travesty.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 18, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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Can't tell you what he said but he did participate in the petition to Red Bull.
Along with other notables.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 18, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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YOU COULD USE THE AIR TO POWER THE WHEELS & RIDE IT UP AS YOU BOLT.
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darod
Big Wall climber
South Side Billburg
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Mar 30, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
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So, all this talk and complaining about elite climbers and film crews, etc, got me thinking and realized that bitching about it here won't really do much to change their determination...so why not really attack the source of the whole problem? Lama wouldn't need to film his ascent if it wasn't for his need of sponsorships...or is it the other way around? don't matter...
Stop drinking Red Bull, don't buy any more Mammut products, period, ever. Get your friends to do the same. In this age of social media we have a lot more power than most people think.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Mar 30, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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Ironic that history has a way of repeating itself.
The japanese are irradiated and the Compressor route has a bolting outrage.
What's with that?
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 30, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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There's a short report in the new issue of Gripped, about the attempt by Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk to climb the route without Maestri's bolts. They got to within 40 m of the end of the headwall before being driven back by a storm. Chris and Jason placed two bolts on their attempt, but used the existing bolts/stations to rappel.
Lama was on the compressor 'route' bolt ladder at the same time, and "They reported the frustration of climbing while being constantly buzzed by Lama's film-crew helicopters."
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 27, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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I see in the last link it looks like Lama is working with Mammut the company that brought us thisI am sure that if you read any climbing media you have seen their stunts in fancy full color pull outs. If this picture is real, which I hope it is not, they have 30 ropes perfectly spaced going down to climbers. I wonder what the ropes are anchored to. The add says it is on Klausen Pass anyone know about this place. I have seen another add where they put a similar amount of people on a rock spire in the alps. Could this be the same production crew and the ethics they used in Patagonia for Lama's climb? what is it they are trying to say? Put as many people in wilderness as possible, everyone should be the same, any expense is worth promoting our product.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 27, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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dude, calm down.
ive been through klausen a half dozen times.
i really like ury-- one of the places in switzerland i'd really like to go back to again.
you need to get used to the idea that in the alps, sport, bouldering, and rad alpine can co-exist. the ropes might be on that big crag up off the north side of the pass. or they might be photoshopped.
and no one would care.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 27, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
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I think they are just trying to be artsy dude relax. Kick back, pour a scotch and pull your panties out of your arse.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 27, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
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Oh yeah companies should only be responible in Patagonia.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 27, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
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Oh yeah companies should only be responible in Patagonia.
You on a personal campaign to stop locals in other parts of the world from rap-bolting, fixing anchors, building bridges, huts, clubs, via ferrata, trams, and highways?
It's the Alps. Folks have been chopping, channeling, and chundering that landscape for the last three millennia. Klausen pass is one of the emptiest passes in that chunk of the Alps. But no, it ain't the North Cascades.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
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Not against any of that stuff. But I would be against installing 30 bolted anchors just for an ad campiagn. Would you be ok with it if that is the case. Doesn't seem as if it would be any different than what Lama's crew did on Cerro Torre.
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Top_Rope
Mountain climber
Queenstown, NZ
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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Weld_it - if you really think the homogenous Lama is radness, then you're so metrosexual (not that their is anything wrong with dat)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
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Went to their websitehttp://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/testevents/ropetests and it looks like it was definately not photoshoped and guess who is in several photos, DL. Must be a really long horizontal crack where they ezqualized cam every 5 feet above the roof because in their literature they talk about how they are sustainable and they make no compromises.
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