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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Johnny on Pit Bull (at the summit)...
Gary on Eric's Face (1986 Contest)...
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gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
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Jan 25, 2011 - 02:46am PT
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Yeah Gary its slightly uphill from the path to Korean Cowboy, under that "jump to the knob" problem at the crook in the road.
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gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
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Jan 25, 2011 - 02:57am PT
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Henny, you have to ask Epps about KPs demise, its his problem. Some say greg sent it and KP had to take a rain check that day, but you wont hear me repeat that, nope that would be slander.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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Ron, for nearly thirty years the rumor keeps getting passed down about that mantle actually having been done! Did Rick actually send it and who else has done it?
Come on, tell more about that "jump to the knob" problem too! I was just there Sunday putting chalk back on the roadside mantle (like it should have) on the rock that you "jump" from to reach the big brown protrusion. I always heard it to be a Mike Paul creation...what's the story and does it diagonal up and left from there?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Just go to the top of Uncertainty and jump. Probably end up with the same result. Last time I checked I seem to recall the landing not looking that great. Boulders and eroded ground? A true commit would seem to be in order if going. I heard the same thing, is that yours Mr. Paul, sir?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
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Gary ,which mantle are you talking about?
If you mean the small boulder down the road from "seminar wall"
The one that I'm pictured in. The so called "grainy protrution" as
you discribed it. The answer is yes I used to do it about every other
time I walked down the hill. Eppi and Adrian Amondovar did it regularly
also.
If you are talking about "Death Vomit"...I worked on that one everytime we were in the "Vomitorium" I finally cranked it after many attemps and numerous visits. Not sure how to rate it? It was pretty damn hard though.
The "leap to the Knob" If I remember correctly was Ron, Eppi and myself screwin' around but Ron would prolly remember for sure?
Here's another road side "regular"(of course everything was BITD)
Hey Mike ,we were probably trying your discovery. I'm fuzzy on the history of "the jump"
Rick
BTW the grainy protrusion below Seminar Wall I believe is an old Shawn Curtis problem.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 12:51am PT
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Now that mantle is just before digits delight and the cave. We use to do that one but it is tame compared to the others mentioned. You don't see chalk on that one anymore either. I'll have to do something about that also.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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Henny,
You sound bored...I watched Johnny figure out the crux moves to Laker Girls is it, up the left side of the big face below go with the flow? He was by himself on his traxion device. That thing goes after all!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
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Yup, I'm bored. Working while problems and routes that I'm amped to do sit around without me on them.
Of course Laker Girls goes. The questions are where/how on that blankish smearing slab.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 26, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
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No woodson updates for this past weekend...went to joshua tree again. We got on asteroid crack which is very woodsonesque. As we walked out to the boulder we passed Thin Red Line again. Looked like there were some people eyeing it, but never saw anybody on it. Didn't get close enough to the base to do the math, but from your story I'll say very nice lead. Way to do that thing (twice!)
Also Henny, I have not been on the arete to the left of Airstream. Next time I'm in the vicinity I'll check it out.
Josh, I'd be happy to help with removing the spraypaint so please let me know when you want to assemble a crew.
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gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
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Jan 26, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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The jump problem - me and greg always looked at that knob and wondered about jumping to it, but no way we were gonna try it solo. Then somehow, somewhere along the line I got the idea that greg said he finally climbed it, and I mentioned this to MP and Rick one day as we were walking past the thing.
Next thing you know, we have a rope on it (none too easy to rig either, like a 50 foot runner to a clump of bushes behind it) and it turned out pretty reasonable - midrange 5.10 I think, great fun.
Later I tell greg we repeated his route and he says "i never climbed that thing". We didnt name it, thinking greg had done it, so it never got a name. Im pretty sure it has a bolt now
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 04:04am PT
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I think the name, "JUMP!" By Van Halen would be appropriate.
Just finished up a short video collage of a trio of roadside problems I did today in another most gorgeous day up at Woodson. The wind picked up over the exposed switchbacks but it was beautiful. I'll have it up soon, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 29, 2011 - 03:36am PT
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Really nice day up on Woodson today. Went to Death Vomit and the way we did it, was only V3/4. Looks like the same start as the photo in the earlier post.
Finally topped out Greg's face.
Tried Fallen Gypsy and got shut down, same with Laker Girls.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 29, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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Nice job Johannsolo! You possess some great technique to send D.V. at
V3-V4 (5.11d?). I pressed out on the two holds your holding onto in the photo. Were you able to somehow use a higher hold?
If you pressed out on those two holds-I bow to your brutality!
If you were able to use a higher hold-I bow to your technique!
Regardless-way to send my little pebble! You guys are crushing the place!
Please keep posting.
Rick
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 29, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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I started with my right hand on the pretty good knob and left on a bad sloper. Left foot on the only decent foot hold. Pop out left to the bad edge. Same holds as in that last photo of my friend Johnny G. Crank up and throw the right hand to another good knob. Right foot up to the starting hand knob. I'll have to try the pure mantle but looks quite a bit harder.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 29, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Here is a very good face a little left of Lemon Chiffon, the RURP face? The left crack is hard to stay on as the climbling leads you to face holds out left. The center seam has a stopper move at the bottom off the drilled hole (half full of silicon) but very good and hard higher. The right face is very good with a mantle to hard face. Dan H. said he's done all three. Anybody have info on these?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 29, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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"I started with my right hand on the pretty good knob and my left hand on a bad sloper"
Those are the two holds from which I pressed.
Obviously, the "true" route would follow the path of least resistance.
That would make my "pure mantle" a variation.
Nice job figuring out the proper moves!
Rick
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 29, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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Whoa! Illusion, what's the b&w rig? How come I haven't climbed it? Or maybe I have?
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jan 29, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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The b&w is Crucible
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!