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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Apr 23, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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here's one of Werner in the valley in 1986 i think..
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Bump for good memories.
Has anyone seen Oakeschott lately? I last climbed with him in the summer of 1976, when we got a couple of pitches up a new route on Drug Dome that, as far as I can tell, has never been finished.
I don't think I've seen Dave Altman since we graduated from Berkeley in 1973, though one of my clearer memories (during an era where clear memories -- and clear minds -- were a rarity) were of he and I trying to teach ourselves general category theory (better known as abstract nonsense) while we waited out a storm in the lounge at the Lodge.
John
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Dennis is great. Quite the organic farmer up in Swall Meadows - he has an amazing garden outside a beautiful home he build years ago.
Recently:
Funny, I tracked Altman down through Walter when I was looking at some math questions nearly 10 years ago. He sounded well, but I have not seen him in eons.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Thanks, Tom.
John
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 28, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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Wad a great shot of Oakschott!
I did not meet him but one or two times. He and Millis took to the Salathe in '74, just after Doug and I had bumbled our way up. The Millis told me that there was no confusion on route-finding with the excellent topo I had drawn up for him and it was good they had it because they were going with only nuts (no cams, Friends). I wonder what that was like for Oakschott?
I mean, two Dennises, a rack of nuts, and a nut for a partner? I believe it was DO's first wall climb.
Dennis, old boy, you look like you need a good feed at Cruz and Willie's...
Who remembers the Mexican food and BEER at the "end of the road" in, well, near Mariposa?
And where is Bruce Price from El Portal, the bus-driver with the '57 Chevy?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
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Apr 29, 2012 - 03:41am PT
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Here you go john hansen
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Apr 29, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Mouse et al
The Story goes that Millis talked like Donald Duck the entire time on the wall driving DO crazy!!!
True story
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Chris Brent
Sport climber
San Francisco
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Apr 29, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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JEleazarian,
Dave Altman is still in Berkeley, teaching outdoor climbing classes and running the weight room at Iron Works Climbing gym. Did a great anchor class with him a few months ago, so many interesting stories.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Apr 29, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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Nice fness rat Steve S
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 30, 2012 - 04:08am PT
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Tom, he could always have been worse! In so many ways, too. You never knew what was coming next. But he must've been in a fear state, compensating, eh?
I have the poetry well in hand. I rewrote the thing I mailed you. Burn what I sent. Oh, yeah, I keep forgetting; new century. Look at "Offwidth Help" for Peter Paan. It was myself and Jeff on 5.9 OW.
For my short version on Millis try the last posts on "A Letter from Mark Klemens."
I got a ride to YV for next weekend. Looking forward to LCR as a start. It depends on how I feel, of course, as to further goals. I hope I get some pics if I can afford a cheap camera. I'm looking better than DO but it is hard to tell in some pics.
Thanks for the brief on DM & DO.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Apr 30, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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Glad to hear it. I will go look for those posts.
Get up there and enjoy.
DO said The quacking was funny for the first couple of pitches - but the duck-speak got to him eventually and I think I remember him telling me that he went through the full gamet of emotions before he resorted to begging Miller to cease and desist to no avail!
Do you remember when Millis took that nasty fall on the Salathe (an earlier attempt)? He caught the rope between his legs -turned his nuts black and blue. He would sit out on the rounds at Post Office at the Village snagging most anybody strolling by, "Was up on The Catain you know... took a whipper .... check out my nuts".
He was wearing shorts soooo big he had a knot tied in the waist. Hilarious!
All of a sudden I'm Fuzzywuzzy - anyway it's Carter.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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I remember blueballs. This sort of thing happens to one's nutsack. In HS I did it to Mathis with my foot (total mistake, we were horsing around) and his pair did the same thing. And our fellow Flame, Larry, was whipped around by an arm and hit a metal support for the breezeway roof with his crotch. Same thing.
Climbing harnesses can save you from this type of occurrence. Millis was not wearing one, I heard it so, I think. I wuz always fuzzy on the details, Wuzz. And I knew who you were. I have Breedlove's list of pseudonyms he gave me. You are on that list. Roger is a scholar. I bet he's a pack rat, too. I can't believe the story about the Bridwell shoes, though. He probably has the pair, just too funking cool to bring 'em out. Or saves them to play in.
:), Roger.
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Shameless Yahoolihan
Trad climber
west malling, uk
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Throwpie -- It was Drone who got snakebit and it was on the search for Andy. Mathis, I believe, racked up his ankle. Everyone got poison oak. James Wright and George almost got busted. The Fresno County sherrifs were as#@&%es. Some things never change.
Tom and Mouse -- yes, Millis' nuts were enormous. And persisted through much of that season, or at least his behavior did.
and Tom -- those are great pics of Al. And of Billy.I'd never recognize Oakshott without his red and yellow rugby shirt.
Because of this thread and my vocal reminiscences about the early 70s in the Valley and Meadows I've been asked to present a talk about them to a local climbing club. For some strange reason, Spaniards are intrigued by stories of Franco-era decadence before there were Fires & Friends (unless you ckimbed with Jardine and signed the waver). Sad to say, all my slides and pics were lost in '76 in a flood in Colorado. Anyone who wants to send me pics is welcome. They'd be acknowledged. Or if YOU speak Spanish, were there and want to visit northern Spain you can give the talk.
Oh.. for any who might be interested and aren't armed: I have relocated to the Cordillera Cantabrica of northern Spain. Great limestone.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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David,
Just use picture from ST in your slide show. There are classic pictures in lots of old threads. Copy them onto a PC slide show, you'll be good to go.
Best,
Roger
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Aug 25, 2012 - 07:33am PT
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"I remember Ike."--Throwpie
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Aug 25, 2012 - 07:48am PT
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"I wonder what that was like for Oakshott"
Dennis O was a damn good freeclimber. So he must have enjoyed that aspect of it. Millis referred to the climb as "the generation gap climb" that is what he told me anyway. Millis never went into into great detail in regards to what he meant or whatever, he just left it at that. DO was prollie around 18-19 or so, Millis maybe 26 or so. Not that big a gap. So, i never quit understood what he was talking about.
Climbed with DO on the first 2-3 pitches of a new route he started in'74 on the Apron. Might have been called Tightrope. Way run out.Last time i saw DO, we were shoveling snow off of some home/log cabin for wages. Winter of 83/84. I would like to see a pic of his home in S. M.! That is great that he has a home of his own!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Aug 25, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Dillis was like as not seeing the difference between the amount of aid he had done using pins in comparison to DO. It was, I understood, Oakschnott's first attempt at a Grade VI.
Dillis took my topo, listing the aid rack we had used (heavy on iron), made substitutions, and carried no pins that I know of. They did it all clean. It sort of represents the difference between young climbers who were indoctrinated by the ablutomaniacal teachings of gurus Doug Robinson, RR and Chouinard, and the ones who had started out using pins, like Dillis and myself.
Technology gap is more like it.
Whippersnappers vs. Donald Duck-talkers.
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