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adenparker
climber
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So much to do there and such great quality/variety as well. So awesome! Can't wait for more.
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 29, 2017 - 08:09pm PT
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Another incredible day at EP. Finally got on Babyface..insane route. The second pitch is an endless wall of techy crimps on amazing stone!!
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 29, 2017 - 10:31pm PT
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I know where you're at in that photo now. I went left into that crack and got a good fingerlock..it felt nice after all that crimping! :-)
The 3rd pitch is super rad too.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 05:37pm PT
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Post from the OP.
Ray Olson
Nov 16, 2009 - 11:43am PT
Deerhorn Valley - realm of the party gods.
How many times did we get sh#t faced drunk
and stoned out of our minds up there?
It went on for years. Before the climbs during the climbs after the climbs and
quite often too much beer camping out at night. I am sure the birds or the lizards
or whatever found my "burrito barf" in the bushes a rare treat. Holy sh*t.
If you took all the weed we burned up there from '75 to '85 you would probably
be looking at about three huge bails sitting in front of you.
This had an inverse effect that "stimulated" the climbing. When we
got too fukked up to climb, we grabbed our machetes, headed off into the
thicket, went exploring and found cool new places to do more bong loads
and cool new climbs, all over the place.
Once we were so trashed driving back to IB, I thought my truck was stalling out
for real - sh*t! Right in traffic about to hook a left up a freeway onramp. In a
panic I said aloud "there's something wrong". Dave glanced over, knowing smile,
message recieved, I pushed down on the gas pedal, the truck was fine.
True story.
Homegrown "grass", mexi, lumbo, thai stick, infinite variations of homegrown
green bud, anything we could get our hands on. And, the devastating uber-
lord of all, Humbolt; there was no fukking question about that. Dave had a
tree house and grew some green. He also had a pit in his backyard covered
with window panes for a hot house. Dave's weed was way better than mexi;
sometimes we'd break open an LB and find an old tennis shoe or other
"artifact" in it, not to mention all the stems.
We'd read how grit climbers often belayed at each available good spot, that
was good news, we could stop, hang out, and pull more tubes. The FA of the
Fang is a classic example. We needed to cut away some brush in order to have
a neat new spot to hang and rip some loads. Dave led the thing wearing a red
Wildy Klettersac (donini, now you know). Inside was his "unit", weed, and water
carried in a glass mason jar - how the hell did he do that? It never broke! At
the belay between the pinnacle and the main block, we consumed more
marijuana, prepping for the challenge of smooth white granite soaring above:
maybe 30' of actual climbing. :-)
Oh, we adapted to the "environment" alright. Strong steady onshores flowing
inland provided us with what can best be described as "god's own air
conditioning". Hard to light a match - Bics hadn't come on the scene yet.
So, having read Basic and Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robbins, we used
our hard-wired "adapability" skills once again and developed our own
techniques to suit the specific demands of the situation. Magifying glasses
became a standard part of our kit and, the "Magnafry" was born - let the
wind blow, we lit our bongs with the Sun! Good god.
I didn't know Ray Olson but I felt the need to upstream this.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Mar 27, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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Thanks for sharing
RIP Ray
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 28, 2017 - 04:57pm PT
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Contractor, there is no such thing a Thai Stick lol, a BS made up sales gimmick here in good ole, USA. Ahh, twenty-one years going to Thailand, the Thai folks have never heard of it in their country.I have smoked plenty in Thailand, full on schwag. Hack hack!!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Mar 28, 2017 - 05:18pm PT
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Jeff, I convinced myself many times that it was laced, of course we were weaning off shitty Mexi or Columbian Gold.
But that skunk, oh Lord- we had to stop rolling bats or die!
I grew up surfing in South San Diego and have spent some time bouldering, trail making and such, around the hills that Roy describes in such classic fashion.
Like I said, I never knew Roy, but out of respect- this thread should be the "go-to" for all San Diego rock other than Woodson- So Cal Obscura for other places.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 28, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
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"Tied Stick man. Cuz you know, it's tied on a stick" Cheech and Chong
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adenparker
climber
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Some photos from our adventure a few weekends ago to Boulder Island. What we thought was gonna be the most unique and coolest new place to climb turned out to be a nightmare infested with Poodle Dog Bush. Every one of us got it, and it landed a few of us in the hospital. Beware..
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Contractor, there is no such thing a Thai Stick lol, a BS made up sales gimmick here in good ole, USA.
Actually, there was. It was opiated or hash-oiled thai buds concentrically tied with fine bamboo thread onto a short, thin bamboo skewer and tightly rolled into a compact paper cylinder slightly shorter than a roll of pennies (easily palmed). Was not generally available in the US, but was in Thailand, Singapore, the Philippines and other SE Asian venues if you knew where to look. But that was before Singapore became the society it is today, before Ferdinand Marcos took over the drug trade in the Philippines, before all the elevated strife on the Burma / Thai border, and before the Indonesians and Malays became so draconian on drugs. Overall it became less and less prevalent in the years following the end of the Vietnam War so I'm not surprised it's now not commonly known in Thailand.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Like french toast, English muffins, French fries it is (was?) real. If not geographically correctly named. As described a couple of places above, available in Wyoming and California in the mid seventies / eighties, lost track after that.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Poodle Dog Bush- Many horror movies start with a group of excited adventures heading off to a mysterious Island. That ominous fog should has given it away.
I saw the video- very classic adventure guys, nice rocks and horrible consequences-LOL!
I was one hill away, trashing around that weekend and never saw a Poodle Dog Bush.
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adenparker
climber
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Yep, we should've taken the hint! Haha. It was a pretty cool experience, sucks it has to be ruined by that plant. We hadn't even heard of it before, so we didn't see it, but we smelled it! Were you with Hubbard? Got any more photos from where you guys were?
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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With Spiewak- yes, will share privately. Have you gotten on Grub Crack?
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adenparker
climber
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Rad. My email is adenmrpants@gmail.com if that works. And no I haven't, I've wanted to check it out. Only been to south Woodson once!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Been there- it sucks!
I'm thinking the Drainage below Morena Dam. The South and North slopes :)
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adenparker
climber
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It sucks?? I've been wanting to check it out, I thought it was all private. There's that area near there called Gnarnia, but some guys were shot at multiple times a few years back and stopped going.
I was looking at those boulders/cliff near Morena dam on google earth. Looks good.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Yeah, someone on the internet tells you it sucks, it must be true, why would they deflect people's interest in a new climbing area? :-)
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Off-white is all right!
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adenparker
climber
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Hahaha true true..
How about anything along the Mother Grundy truck trail? So much rock out there.
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