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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Mooch,
Who's next in line for a decade bday?
Maybe it's 'Mucci's Dirty Thirty' - he's still a kid right?
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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count me in guys!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sweeeet shot!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Dan.....that shot of Susu....was that on Minerva?
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Thanks for the post, Dan - you sure captured the peak sunset color that day!
Mooch, this is a climb at Magic Wall near Chilkoot Lake towards the top of the ridge.
Matt, thanks for the bday wish for John.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
rochester,ny
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dan,thats some photography,shuteye,what an area,im totally jealous. terry
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Another nice shot Dan. Was a great day out at Gray.
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Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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A short TR from this weekend...my first climbing trip along Minarets Road
We camped at Rock Creek, and climbed on Big Sleep (Afternoon Nap, 5.7) and Squaw Dome (West Face, 5.6 in old Spencer guide).
We thought both routes were quality. West Face on Squaw Dome was exceptionally good, with very little beta available except in the Spencer guide. Route is 3 pitches, pro to 3 inch. 2 pitches of flakes, 1 pitch with a travers followed 60 feet of slabby face on small knobs. It felt like 5.7, and last pitch is run out. Suprising to find a welcome bolt belay at top of second pitch given the lack of traffic on this route. 1 x 50 ft rap off the summit to get to the gap between Squaw Dome and it's lower neighbor to the south.
Rich
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Cool, Rich.
It is possible to walk off the top of Squaw with some care. Although I haven't climbed the West Face route yet, I don't know if you looked at it, but Snake Crack to the left is pretty classic.
These routes are occasionally guided, hence the replaced hardware.
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Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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Nate
Didn't take a look at Snake Crack. I was tempted, but I must admit that I was a little concerned as to what the 5.9 move would be like, given that a) the information in the Spencer guide is approaching 30 years old, b) 5.9 is about my limit, and c) no information on the current state of the bolt that I believe protects the crux.
Your picture looks great. Could you share some more info on Snake Crack - might have a go next time we ar there?
Also, I noticed that there were biners left on the hangers at top of 2nd pitch. I wonder if guides rap off after 2 pitches, or whether more timid leaders have backed off.
There is also a mast on the summit and some exposed rebar. We didn't take a close look, but intrigued as to what it is doing there.
Thanks,
Rich
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Rich,
The 5.9 on Snake Crack is really only 5.8, or arguably 5.7, for a couple slab moves traversing to the first belay. The route is also more easily done in 3 pitches than I think the 5 very short pitches noted in Spencer. P. 1 is a nice flake. P.2 is the wonderful crack, probably 5.7, small/micro cams coming in handy I recall for the p.2 belay at the end of the long splitter. The last pitch is long and runout heading straight up over an overlap to slab, but we are talking runout on 5.4ish terrain.
Saw the rebar, but no idea why it's there. The dome is now officially called Piyau Dome. See: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779298&msg=1626531#msg1626531
earlier in the thread for a few links Dan shared.
Any pics to share of the West Face?
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Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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Jul 10, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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No pics I am afraid. Left the camera in the car. I was very suprised to find so little info on the web on our return. If I had known, I would have taken some pics to encourage more people to climb this quality line.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jul 10, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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mmm, so yo.
I'm so converted.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jul 10, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Lots of the domes out there have or had what I think were survey markers on the top. I've seen them on top of several of the Balls and Jackass Butte. The one on jackass Butte still has a section of steel pipe and some galvanized panels. People have used the panels as a register with dates going back to 1926. My dad used to work for USGS and set these up for triangulation. His were built out of wood with red or orange cloth panels.
My belief is that for some reason a very accurate survey was done in this area. I think there was a proposal for a trans sierra highway around 1910.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jul 10, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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imagine that, a highway from Oakhurst to Mammoth Lakes.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 10, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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back in the 60's there were plans to build such a road, but after at the time gov. regan did a 5 day camping trip from beasore meadows to the valley, guided by jonhy a. jones of the jones store. after that trip regan saw what an amazing place it was, he had the plans scrapped to protect the land.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny,sawdust does not work like chalk
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Jul 13, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Sean "tipping"
Let us know!