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local
Social climber
eldorado springs
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
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Just the text was posted on ST, not the photos.
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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Steve, I have some old gear of my father's from the 1930s or 40s floating around, I think, if you're interested. A lot of stuff in my mother's garage.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
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I would love to check it out, of course! We may be in your neck of the prarie late September. I'll write you once we firm up plans.
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Jul 26, 2011 - 03:12am PT
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I enjoy seeing the I-beams again, I had forgotten them.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2011 - 11:00am PT
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Thanks for the rest of the post local!
Sorry you guys married well...LOL It would heve been fun to see where this would have gone otherwise!
Thanks for the link Clint. Missed that one!
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local
Social climber
eldorado springs
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Jul 26, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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I said girlfriends, not wives. A long life of soul deadening toil followed the break-ups.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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Pardon the fairy tale ending...
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 26, 2011 - 01:10pm PT
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My experiences go back even further, when their catalogue had that wonderful photo of someone rappelling off the Maiden on Flagstaff. As a novice from Georgia I could hardly believe that such a rock formation existed. I met the two of them on my first trip out west, and do recall, as Pat has said, going downstairs to their shop in Boulder. I cut off that picture and framed it when I started at Georgia Tech. Inspiring.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Not sure if this is exactly the same image that Holubar used but it is a classic shot! The cover shot on one of the guidebooks is the image that you are likely thinking of and has only a rappeler in it.
"Dale Johnson working on the Northwest Overhang of the Maiden on the first ascent as a climber descends on rappel after climbing the normal route." Cleve McCarty photo.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 26, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
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My favorite Holubar gear was an NP-22 parka, who else recalls those? Wasn't waterproof at all but I climbed a lot of mountains and practically lived in it for a while. There's a Gerry pack in this photo, too.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 26, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
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Chiloe- Please scan and post what you wrote.
My tale overlaps a bit with local's, you might see the same characters. Here's a scan,
But to read the story (along with others by real climbers) you all need to buy Steve's excellent book.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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The classic Maiden rappel cover shot also by Cleve McCarty.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 28, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
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My 'michelin' man suit. . .
I'm trying to post the entire coat, but I seem to be having problems posting more than a single photo each session . . .
back later. . .
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 28, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
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My favorite Holubar gear was an NP-22 parka, who else recalls those? Wasn't waterproof at all but I climbed a lot of mountains and practically lived in it for a while.
I too practically lived in that parka, and, as it happens, referred to it earlier in this very thread. See http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1562234&tn=1 for a shot of the parka in (a rather peculiar) action.
Here's another shot of that Holubar parka---you can sort of see the leather rappel patch on my shoulder under the pack strap.
For you youngsters, it was typical BITD to use a Dulfersitz on low-angle rock and a "swiss seat" (leg loops with a carabiner) for steeper rappels. Both methods directed the rope over a shoulder and down the back. The leather rappel patch protected the garment and its wearer from the heat and abrasion of the rappel rope.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 12:50am PT
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And the Swiss Arm Rappel for the really low angle stuff!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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the Lowa Alpspitz was a great boot. Extremely comfortable for a mountaineering boot
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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I liked seeing how Ray Jardines 6" beam looked to have been hammered in and out a few times.
When does a nut become a piton?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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As soon as Ray gets spooked! LOL
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 31, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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I have one of those hex nuts with extra holes in it, but I always called it a Colorado Nut, not a Clog. It is presently on display at the AZ Hiking Shack. Below shows Holubar 1969 Catalog which lists it as a Colorado Nut.
Rock on! Marty
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