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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 26, 2011 - 08:59am PT
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I was fishing around recently and I found this cover photo to an aid climbing text. Since John Middendorf posted a similar photo, I thought this a good time to post it up:
Anybody know this fellow? His name and what he's up to these days? Thanks.
P.S. Before he was a climber or even a caver, Dr. Piton was a fisherman of some prowess, who rarely but occasionally got skunked.
I seem to be fishing a lot these days. I have been dragging artificial lures through the water, using live bait, and casting wide nets. I might even have a hand grenade in my tackle box. I have a few fish in my life well already, and if you think you might be one of them, perhaps an email my way could convince me to practise catch and release. You might not want to find yourself gutted, stuffed and mounted on display.
Oi! Avoid more Shi-t and Poop.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Aug 26, 2011 - 09:35am PT
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Rich Albuschkat. Mike Corbett belaying. Lost Arrow Spire. Photo Credit: Chris Falkenstein
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BASE1361
climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
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Aug 26, 2011 - 09:37am PT
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Mrs. Weak Sauce writes Seriously, no one has studied this story more than me and my friends.
You really NEED to get a life. How pathetic.
I can just see you and your "friends" spewing for 40 days and 40 nights for 30 years on this route that you have NEVER done nor will you and Mr. Self-RIghteous Weak Sauce never DO.
Never met ya but if this is your claim to life your a loser. Filled with hate anger.
How about you 2 drink a hot cup of shut the f*#k up and do the 3rd??
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Aug 26, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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The pendulum has gained momentum and swung in the direction FAionistas.
In a matter of time it will swing back in the direction of the antagionistas.
Like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Aug 26, 2011 - 11:08am PT
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Mimi-
BASE1361, hahaha, you really need to r...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 26, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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Meaty:
Cowardly small minded chopping, sometimes at night, that left smashed hangers and battered rock. Oh......they cared so much about the rock!!
That gets right down to the crux of this issue IMO. Self policing serves an important function in rock climbing. Everyone has the right to chop, but they should climb the route first and be able to be upfront about it and explain why it was warranted.
When cowardly anonymous chopping takes place it indicates it is not about maintaining ethics but about the chopper's ego. And one of the worst things about it is it gives chopping a bad name in general. A lot of people are then going to think any chopping is BS. So in effect these cowardly choppers are having the opposites effect they intend. Instead of upholding tradition they are giving traditionalists a bad name.
Yosemite is a national park. We all have the same rights to it. So even though some of us might not have been there at the time (e.g. it was before my time) these issues effect all of us.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Aug 26, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives.
Oh, the sand keeps falling through the hourglass, and there's no way you're gonna slow it down... So STOP FORWARDING THAT CRAP TO ME.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUZUImChHJE
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Prod
Trad climber
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Aug 26, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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I just got around to reading your route story Madbolter. Nice writing.
2 questions. Actually i question and 1 comment.
So, you're hitting that drill holder with, like, 1/4 force. So every bolt or rivet takes so much longer than it should.
That may explain why people talked about the constant sound of drilling?
As we were hiking the Falls trail, we encountered a few girls. The looked STRANGE, man! I mean, women are built SO differently from men, and we had only see each other for 39 days. We got so mentally accustomed to seeing only the male form (no homo!) that that was "normal." And I was actually STARING at those girls, not in lust, but in AWE... just thinking, "Wow! That is something DIFFERENT!" Ever since then I've had a whole new appreciation for just how women are built. I don't mean that to sound seedy. I mean that they are just wonderful, and I'm so glad that we aren't all built like men. lol
Now think about this quote in terms of Mimi.
Prod.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Aug 26, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
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Seriously, no one has studied this story more than me and my friends.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Aug 26, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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I also enjoyed Richard’s account of the FA... some parallel experiences we went through up there.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 26, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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The Mimi has said repeatedly:
These guys were an incompetent joke
So how does this jive with these same guys doing an early ascent of the Sea, which was at the time considered "cutting edge" and still after probably 50+ ascents has a rep as one of the most sustained aid lines on the Capt.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 26, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
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Wow. Did Prod really say "Mellow Dramatic?"
Now there's a good name for a route somewhere...
Actually, that's a damn good description for the Taco in general.
SuperTopo: the Mellow Dramatic choice for rock-climbing forums
LOL
GO
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Aug 26, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Richard, thanks for the inspiring tale! I'd go climbing with you any day. As for a few others posting here, I'd be scared to merely meet them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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Just fanning the flames Coz. Bad, I know...
In real life, as you know,Mimi would kick most of these guy's asses. You'd prolly go a round or two, what with your longer reach 'n all....
Richard, thanks again for putting some reality into this.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Aug 26, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
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Mimi's just trolling and having fun getting reactions.
That's the conclusion I just reached. We've been trolled! This is one of the longest and most successful trolls on Supertopo.
Mimi and Steve have probably been giggling at us until they're blue in the face.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 26, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
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I do not see anyone tarnishing their reputation that much just to troll... Unrealistic. i think they actually believe that they are richeous...
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Aug 26, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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Hey Richard,
Beautiful post. Glad I checked in again.
I also wish to apologize for my insensitivity and for making fun of your situation and character. I have been thinking a bit about it.
I have always been attracted to slabs. I can very much relate that many things I really think are cool, are disdained by others. I remember Cantwell getting flack about Hall of Mirrors. I never understood the flack at all.
I could very much relate to your experience of confusion and surprise at all the vitriol that you received. While I have never experienced anything to that depth or length of time, I and probably all of us have been taken by surprise by some sudden criticism from an unexpected direction or unexpected person. The feeling for me is a sense of total confusion and loss.
My experiences of support and care and encouragement from climbing mentors, partners and the climbing community in general has been very important to me. It would be very painful if suddenly it seemed everyone was against me, or that no one at all could relate to me. It was bad enough when one partner decided he didn't want to climb with me anymore.
I am no longer surprised by the vitriol on supertopo or the internet in general, but many of the stories of old timers mercilessly denigrating others, do still take me aback. I am thankful that I have experienced very little of that during my years of climbing and adventuring.
I was thinking about why I have criticized you and not your antagonists. I think that despite my friendships with some "Valley Christians" as you put it, "Heathen" as I put it, I really can't relate to that behavior and so I have nothing constructive to say to them.
I can very much relate to looking at a slab and thinking, "I wonder what it is like up there? I wonder if I can figure it out? I wonder what it will do to me? I wonder if I am brave enough?"
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Aug 26, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
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Last night I caught a Paul Newman movie I had never seen. The movie is WUSA, but the original title was ironically enough, A Hall of Mirrors. The dialogue was so amusing I thought to post it here:
""She speaks like an extremist, because she doesn't see the big picture. Now speaking as a communicator, in my opinion, there is deep confusion in the popular heart and mind. Explanation numbers are very big.
I mean I think it's great. It's uh, it's like a study in sheer existenial amorality.
I speak to the troubled heart.
You don't have enough talk and whisky to hide behind. You know better than they know. I can't believe you're such a bastard you've lost your humanity. I want you to tell me what's happening?!
He wants to know what's happening.
Somebody always raises that question.
You want to know what's happening? Dig, I'll tell you what's happening. How do the fish live in the sea? That's what's happening.
Look in the penny arcades, man. Look in the tacostands, that's what's happening.
Yeah, look in Walgreens.
Remain calm, all the important decisions have already been made.
You know, this cat, he's a athlete of perception. I'm gonna tell him what's happening. What's happening is that things are getting chilly. One by one the warm weather creatures are gonna topple dead with frozen eyelids. Creatures of the cold will proliferate. The air will become thin and difficult to breath.
Wow, that's great!
The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will be screwed.
I want an answer from you!
Wow, he's freaking out!
No! He's about to make a statement. Don't stop now, you are the voice of Christian witness in this slough of despond.
My god, you are an evil fool.
Well, you try waking up in a room full of turtles.
You're very good at special pleading but there are other people hurting besides you.
Yeah, there's YOU. I'm not even evil. What do you say, troops? Am I evil?
No, you're great!
You hear that you cornpone Christ. I'm just a drunk.
Well, that's too bad. But no value. But everyone else's life didn't change because you became a...
What do you know about the value of any life, you crippled freak? I mean drunks can be dirty but they don't leave a thick, smelly film of piety around them. I put it to you this creature is god's skunk. Arouse his conscience and he stinks.
It doesn't matter what I am. A human life is a gift. The muck of the earth was raised up to consciousness. Blood was made warm.
We know that. I mean, warm blood and gifts and human-ness. We all had that trip man. None of us could swing with it.
Sure that's over now anyway. Quit your job at the morgue.
These people don't understand you. But, I'm a moralist like you. I know your anguish and I got no right to deny it. So let me give you an alternative. Drop dead. Drop dead, while you are among friends.
Wow.
Tell it.
Now that's a valid alternative.
Well, you are all put down artists and you sure put him down.
Not at all. You know when someone says something that's a drag, I gotta try to say something that's a worse drag.
Oh Christ.
Wow.
That was a heavy scene man.
What was that all about?
You didn't have to cut him up like that.
Forget it.
Why did you have to be so mean?
Self defense... SELF DEFENSE.
You're as drunk as it gets aren't you.
That's right, and no moralizing twitch is gonna bleed all over me. God, I hate whiners, they're evil.
What do you want to eat?
I wouldn't want you to think by feeding me you were adding to the troubles of the world.
For god sake.
Cuz I can walk out any god damn time. I can walk out of anything. I know how it's done. You don't think I would?
You son of a bitch.
I'm gonna go out and put some people on.""
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Aug 26, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Aug 26, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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Lady Macbeth: The raven himself is hoarse
That croaks the fatal entrance of Duncan
Under my battlements. Come, you spirits
That tend on mortal thoughts, unsex me here,
And fill me from the crown to the toe topful
Of direst cruelty!
MacBeth: To-morrow, and to-morrow, and to-morrow,
Creeps in this petty pace from day to day,
To the last syllable of recorded time;
And all our yesterdays have lighted fools
The way to dusty death. Out, out, brief candle!
Life's but a walking shadow, a poor player,
That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,
And then is heard no more. It is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.
The Wolf: You guys look like... What do they look like, Jimmie?
Jimmie: Dorks. They look like a couple of dorks.
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