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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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Juan,
Only if you're older than me.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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Boche
i've already started to annotate my guide books as the "boche death route". i've pondered about nailing that thing for some time, but it goes free! my next question is do we keep a bolt to protect the next victim....i'll start by top roping it first.
guyman
you said "Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973".
how bad azz!
later,
R.M.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 20, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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If the FFA was led with the protection of a bolt, perhaps its OK to leave a bolt in to retain the character of the FFA.
Aid pins have the "It should slow me down" aspect...
I may not be the best one to decide this. Thanks for asking...
But I do like the idea of retaining the character of the commitment & confidence it takes to make the lead where there are serious consequences if the leader falls.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2010 - 03:14am PT
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Feb 21, 2010 - 12:34am PT
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even though the rock was too wet to climb it was still a gorgeous day out at Stoney today!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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just some Kool temps for today!
have fun!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53am PT
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Stellar picture, BoulderKitty!
Thanks for your photos and the update and your editing of the BDR, Pyro. Made wish I could have disapparated there for this afternoon's workout.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Feb 24, 2010 - 10:04am PT
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Pyro, that don't look like no boot flake to me.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
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Occasionally bored and dumb can lead to a good time. Or, if nothing else, a few good yuks.
I lived in the canyon for years, so it was a good 30+ minute drive to get to Stoney. So one lazy Saturday, probably late 1977, during a torrential rainstorm we decided to put down ours beers and hit the rock. We were not too motivated, so we decided to bring more beer than gear. So my fellow droog and I loaded up the beer, the gear, and other whatnots and at the last minute decided to throw in the etriers.
By the time we got to Stoney, our excitement had diminished to the point of complete dereliction. The rain had increased quite a bit, so that didn't help. Not wanting to waste the aforementioned beer we figured we best work up a plan. Like I said, we were a lazy lot, so we hit the Jesus Wall and pulled out the trees. We aided our way half way up, parked it on one of the bolts and pulled out the beer. Thinking back, I hope we would have clipped a few of those old rusty dogs.
We hung there drinking beer for a least an hour, I have no idea what the commuters must have thought. What I don't remember is how we left. Did we go up, did we go down? I have no idea. Surprisingly, no one bothered us or even stopped at the park. I imagine today the cops would be all over that.
Ah to be young, dumb and bored.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Old Topanga lizard thanks!
that old aid line was sure fun. I've practiced rope solo-techniques quite a bit on that thing.
Boche~the photo's will continue! maybe someday we all could get together for the perfect photo on the summit boulder and boulder one. Cole would love that pic for his documentry!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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This is still my favorite Stoney pic.
Sometime if I get time I'll have to describe my early adventures out at Stoney with two fierce, late, great rock warriors - Billy Westbay, and John Bachar, circa 1975, when both guys were at their peak. Some incredible stuff, and scary.
Stoney has more history than just about any place I can imagine. If those boulders could talk!
JL
PS: Per folks back channeling me about the pic below, I believe it's from around 1978, when Yabo and I first worked out the moves on Yabo Arete and a bunch of other stuff during that time - there was intense bouldering activity there for a few years, a sort of jump up in intensity that Stoney goes through here and there.
I think this Yabo Aret pic was around the time I got my first pair of Fires, by driving up to Ventura and paying cash to Bachar. Bachar and Graham imported the boots for a while in the late 70s, early 80s.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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So I hope the bad bolts are still on the main wall bolt ladder.
Thats what made it fun. Really.
Juan
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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Juan...
This is weird, but true. Some joker pulled all the old bolts, on Rap, and redrilled "new" holes in completely different spots! Then he disappeared for a while. New hardware appeared in the "new drilled holes" but it's NOT CLIMBING GEAR.... it looks like really crappy Hardware from Home Depot glued in. The new "Shuts" at the 1/2 way point look like the stuff you screw into the 2x4's in the garage to hang bikes from. Very mankey.
Pyro went out and pulled all that sh#t down, thank god, and is replacing new bolts in the original 1/4 inch locations.
We are sort of concerned with the slack liners setting up on regular 3/8 bolts placed for the few Top Ropes that have bolted anchors. We are finding loose bolts with fractures in the stone.
Anybody know the math on the amount of force required to pull a line really tight? I bet it exceeds the recommended load rating for 3/8 climbing bolts, hangers. By a TON.
Weld-it where are you?????
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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Thread brings back many good memories of climbing Tues/Thurs evenings back in the mid 80s-mid 90s with Bob Kamps, Herb Laeger, Guy Keesee, Kris Solem, Jan and Owen Fordham, Chris Hsu, Judy and Mark Powell, Mark Frumkin, Jan McCollum and my partner at the time, Karen Brotter. I dug up a few old photos to add to the mix.
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
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The slackliners question reminds me of some other good times at Stoney. We always thought we would end up on the Lost Arrow, we never did, so we set up a tyrolean traverse at Stoney to practice our style. By the way, I'm sure our style was terrible. We set it up above and beyond the top of the Jesus Wall, I don't think it was longer than 80'. Someday I'll pull out those old slides and figure out how to post on this site. I've got a lot of old slides from Stoney, Suicide and Socal that somebody may enjoy. Maybe some of you old dogs could be lurking in the background.
I did put some of that to use on the Sun Ribbon, so it wasn't all for not.
Of course what I remember most about Stoney from the 70's was the broken glass everywhere. You couldn't walk barefoot anywhere. It's been decades, is it still that bad?
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Glass still everywhere? Pretty much once you get away from Boulder one, Turlock, etc. (Edit: agree with GGnome, the main boulder areas are better than ever.)
Been taking my daughter out and establishing a small circuit that she can do. Her favorite boulder is the Pyramid over by Lions Head Mantles. I can't do half of what I used to, but I'm working on it!
"Off the couch" was a whole lot easier before I became a potato. Haha.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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Actually the glass is much better than it used to be. They closed Stoney after dark so the lowlifes can't drink there all night and break bottles. Much of the glass has been crushed into invisibility or washed away and the place looks pretty good. The graffiti is way down too although we still get an occassional tagger work the place over. Jim Wilson cleans a lot of that mess up.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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just remember that rock climbing is dangerous.
"sandstone rock is estimated 800psi then it'll fail".
Guyman that person pulled,patched, drilled and drilled then placed a lag screw.
Guyman ~ my guess is that this person was doing a good deed, but needs better instruction on how to do bolt replacement.
here is my original post about this mess
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=769607&msg=770612#msg770612
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 26, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Pyro, is that "new" belay one you placed? Those new bolts look a bit too close to the old holes for my liking. Rule of thumb has always been a minimum of 10 bolt diameters from another hole, crack, fissure, etc. Even more if it's a deep bolt.
At least you got the right brew :)
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