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GDavis
Trad climber
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Richard, the stone is HURTING, I tell you! Hurting! Why don't you think of other people's, er, rocks, feelings before you climb?!?!/11
Oh I laugh to myself now and again... who would think to see a WoS debate end up in this thread? Yet, if there's one thing I learned, its that... well shoot I don't think I've learned anything. And Tim Schinhofen I'm sure says HI. He is lurking around here somewhere no doubt.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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I can't believe it--227 posts and counting over the best Labor Day weekend, at least here in the northeast, that we've seen in years. While you folks were busy posting I--and alot of others--was out climbing in an area I've never been to. Maybe it was a bit crowded, maybe some of the routes wren't the best, maybe some were quite good---BUT IT WAS BEAUTIFUL AND I WAS OUT CLIMBING AND HAVING FUN. Isn't that what it's all about?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Well, SG can turn any thread into an opportunity to pot shot. Sigh.
Yeah, tell Tim hi for us if you see him!
And, Mighty, that's "DR. Metamucil" to you! Got it?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Back from the weekend- interesting list being compiled! Have to take exception with Primrose and Scenic Cruise- both three star routes in my book. For ice climbs, how about The Black Dike on Cannon Mountain.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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For ice climbs, how about The Black Dike on Cannon Mountain.
Kinda thought about that a bit when you first posted this topic. Then I thought, 3 pitches, the position on Cannon (that great big right facing corner you can see from the parking lot), the history, the grade, approach, descent...I dunno. Pretty classic. And can be spicy in lean conditions. Deserving in its popularity, methinks.
-Brian in SLC
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Hey Jim, I didn't say the Scenic Cruise was a bad route just that it is overrated. Not in terms of its grade but it's singular popularity. There is a lot of rock in the Black. The Scenic Cruise is just one of the routes there not the best route there. And what with how clean it is and with all the chalk and fixed gear it's not really like the Black at all. But it recieved the publicity and attained what I call the Jello Factor. That has nothing to do with Jeff Lowe. It means branding. No one goes to buy gelatin they go buy Jello. Even if it is Foodclub knockoff it is called Jello. IMO the Scenic Cruise has the Jello Factor. It is a great route among many GREAT routes.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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To Chim-Chim: Yep, there is plenty of climbing in Mass., though most who post on here would call it "tiny, chossy,worthless, etc.....", but it's here and alot of the actual climbing is quite good despite the short lengths of most of the routes. The areas close to Boston do tend to be pretty tiny and not high in the aesthetics--Quincy--i.e. Queasy--Quarry being the prime example, but still offer accessible recreation for the city-bound. Further west we have various mostly single-pitch crags--what the Brits call outcrops--and bouldering areas usually in very pleasant (though often bug-ridden)wooded locales. Alot of the climbing that gets done is top-roping--horror of horrors!!!!--but there is trad and some sport. But, yes, if we want anything longer its the Gunks, the Dacks, or New Hampshire--and Vermont mostly for ice. As for the basic topic that Jim posted, I guess I have alot I could say, but in my opinion it really comes down to the individuals experience on the climb-- even a crappy climb can give someone a classic experience and vice versa.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Karen, Regular Route on Fairview? gasp. . . say it ain't so! I loved that route, but then I also had to wait behind three parties in the friggin cold, so I'll say the wait for the route is definitely overrated.
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melon
Trad climber
Redlands, California
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Sep 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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The Jam Crack on English Smooth Sole Slab at Mt. Rubidoux.
Way overrated.
And it needs a couple of bolts.
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Unforgiven
Mountain climber
Dirt
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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overhang bypass maybe because i was drunk and stoned when i lead this climb.
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
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It's got to be the White Route on the Tsunami Wall at the BRC. Everyone says it's cool, but it's just like climbing the overhanging side of a 28 ft extension ladder, except you wouldn't hit the ground if you just let go.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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"Overhang Bypass" is an interesting candidate. I've been on it too many times myself to concur, but some of those adventures have had loose rock and bad gear aspects,but I kept going back..so I must not think it is over rated. 5.6 ain't a sandbag for that thing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2009 - 12:29am PT
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If you want a refreshing alternative to "Overhang Bypass" there is always "Overhang Overpass."
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 17, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Still going with Double Cross.....
Unrivaled in bolt protected trad cracks.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 17, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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Jim D,
You know when a weekender reveals himself as a 5.6 leader, opening himself to ridicule and catcalls, you are there to suggest 'overhang overpass' as an 'alternative' I imagine it has "good" gear...haha
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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Come on Inner City, only reason you were up there was to scope it out. Well the gear is certainly better now than BITD.
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Scott_Nelson
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 17, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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East Butt El Cap
Reed's Direct
Astroman
S Face Washington Column
Lucky Streaks
Charlotte Dome
White Punks on Dope
Imaginary Voyage
Walk on the Wild Side
Solid Gold
Supercrack
Kor Ingalls
Tricks of the Trade
Eagle Dance
Crimson Chrysalis
NE Face Pingora
Petit Grepon
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 17, 2009 - 11:10am PT
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OO. Very funny.
How about:
Top 40 to Middle Toilet? Yeah, I actually did that thing once.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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This one needs a bump!
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trailridge127
Trad climber
Loveland, CO
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Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek canyon and Shelf road
edit.. definitely Shelf
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