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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 26, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Cool stuff!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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Slobett, would you check the temps at the Inquisition? Say about 1.5 hrs after it goes in the shade, no particular reason...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Hey Russ, you gonna be around the Park during Thanksgiving?
I may need a wide-guide. Although, that's prolly when you avoid the Park.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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During Thanksgiving we usually have a very secret gay free masons type event, complete with stacks of old guys and plenty of neosporin and DMSO. It is a wide sausage fest of the highest order. This year will probably be no different, although it will be strict in the RSVP aspect and ID's will be checked at the compound entrance.
So, I guess I will be around, but I will not be around..... does that make any sense?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
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DMSO!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Roger that, Mussy. I'll look you up, being constantly referred to as a closet Repub-homo, I may fit in!
On a side note I went to the Santa Clara Art/Wine (beer) festival and had my son ID registered/fingerprinted by....The Santa Clara chapter of the Masons!!!!
kick ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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^^^^^
hahahahahaha..... yep.... just like that!
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
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Modern Warfare and Throbbing Gristle...
Alan Nelson and I were climbing together a bit.
Me trying to keep up with him.
After we both sent Braindeath first try,
He suggested these two wide cracks he knew of.
He had the wide gear, too.
Alan was a gentleman, and gave me the FA lead of Modern Warfare.
He did the Throbbing Gristle, and accepted my name suggestions
For both.
Alan was a swell guy, supermotivated.
I miss him.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Ray, if you were there for the FA of Throbbing Gristle, spill some details:
lead or TR?
Layback or pure OW?
Boxers or briefs?
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
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Russ, a good question.
I think he top roped it.
I remember alan at work up
There, but am not sure - except
That I did not lead that thing!
Pretty sure it was all out for me
As a TR, no way on the sharp end.
The gear alan had was perfecto
For modern warfare tho...
God, we were all so young and fit back then...
Pretty sure alan laybacked the upper part
Of TG, Russ.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Guess we'll never know....
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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After we went all CSI on the TG, here is what the greatest OW minds of the day figured:
Top rope (lead is problematic with the pro in the way etc)
Most likely laybacked (esp on TR. Straight in is unholy hard. Layback is feasible, and I've seen Alan layback... he had it going on. I've seen him OW stuff too, and he was no slouch on that either, but layback on this one seems more likely)
Briefs (don't ask how I know this)
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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it may have been 25 years ago.
Pretty safe to say TG was put up as a top rope.
And yes, pretty sure there were moves "ouside"
The crack - I pretty much remember alan
Gassing it where the thing gets sorta offset,
Up high.
I could not find those cracks now for the
Life of me - ha, no clue where we hiked to.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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F*ck... in the vicinity... still no shirt. Denied.
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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The cool thing about climbing with alan
Was that he really wanted his partners to
Have success, but was keenly competetive too.
Really fun guy to climb with.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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Next time Steel... until then, no shirt ain't that bad.....
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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I remember thinking, as we hiked back
from where ever the hell we were that
probably no one would ever go out there
to do those cracks again...that's the way it seemed.
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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Cool about the popularity of "wide".
Russ, yes, my current handle is in flux
And will probably morph into "frog"
Once I get officially set up in my place
This winter.
Good luck with everything Russ!
The climbing gear world would kinda
Suck without you.
Safe climbing...
Ray
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
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All my best designs are ones I stole from you anyway.....
Wide is back in a big way. Everyone, chicks included, want to obtain the giant shank of the stock offwidth climber. It's evolution!
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