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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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From '67 Summit - FA of Jonah by Michael Cohen
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 31, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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BUMP!
Did El Whampo on friday, great 2nd pitch. Crux was the 150 foot 50 degree snowslope leading up the gulley!
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microcam
Trad climber
San Juan Capistrano. California
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May 31, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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Did Angel's Fright with my buddy Dave this past Saturday. We had a blast!!! Check out the BITD display at the Historical Society building. It's pretty cool and pick up the dvd of the reunion of climbers this past November. Its a must have!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Spent a leisurely time walking around the south face (rather than descending the snowy north gulley), stopping to take it all in and people watch. A lot of people, but not what I would call crowded, and I got the chance to talk to some as well. Everyone was so stoked, just enjoying themselves... it was a nice vibe. Just a happy group of climbers, playing on the rocks.
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Bruce Nyberg
Trad climber
Sheridan, Wyoming
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I have slides of Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo and Gibb Lewis freeing the Vampire for the first time. I fixed a rope just next to them and was close. I also have slides of Clark Jacobs on Insomnia. The only problem is I do not have a scanner. If there is anyone who can convert these slides so they can be posted, e-mail me at b5craig2n@yahoo.com and I can send them to you. Cheers, Bruce Nyberg.
P.S. I may have some others but I need to go through 17 years of them and it will take some time.
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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4 on a Lark. 4 climbers 3 ropes and The Lark. 5-30-10
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Mar'
Trad climber
Fanta Se
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Yipee! Now if Kelly would let me surf his "driveway" I'd be set!!!
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Stephen B
Mountain climber
Pasadena
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The unknown climber on Open Book is Wayne Baumgartner. He and I were climbing next to you guys that day. Green Arch is still rad -- it takes balls to get on that one.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Once again x15x15, we do the "hit and miss" meeting. Jealous your house is just below (could throw a rock from LL and hit it...haha!). We climbed 'Dave's Deviation' and then headed over to 'The Swallow' (damn, that route is one SOB!). Came back on Memorial Day and met up with Pat Brennan (Mr. SB) and did 'The Jam Crack' and linked it to 'Piton Pooper'. Pat wanted to check out Harry Daley Direct but we ended up climbing the short lived 'The Climb With No Beginning' (5.6 R/X).
Love your backyard, X-Man!
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David Snyder
Trad climber
California
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Just up at Tahquitz on 5/23/10 and it snow/hailed 4 inches on the approach. Way cool,no climbing that day, but great hiking to the base.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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i'm a climber who has never gotten around to climbing everywhere. rather, i've fallen in love with my favorite places, and one of them is idyllwild.
every climbing area has what you might call a platzgeist, a certain spirit about it. idyllwild is incomparable in that department. i never took to josh much--i go skiing that time of year. there are great places, like red rocks, i've never even been to in 30 years of climbing. i don't have to be a rock tourist and see them all. i'd rather get in deeper with those i know and get to know them better.
i've had a different sort of climbing career. i actually got better after i turned 50. go figure that. so i'm back at idyllwild looking at climbs i thought were over my head in the 1980s. i'd put off chingadera for years, and then surprised myself by acquitting myself on it fairly well. and, having climbed with bob kamps shortly before he passed on, it opened a whole door to appreciation of his contributions.
idyllwild is wonderful. if people are missing that, maybe it's the zeitgeist. i wouldn't worry. times change.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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In repentance for my off topic (Alien) debates with Klimmer I've put together some pictures (on topic) of last weekend at Suicide.
My Friend Adam on Valhalla
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Mass
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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x15x15
This must be you guys on The Vampire on 5/30. Sorry it's a crappy photo, one of you is behind the branch, but it was my first time up Tahquitz, on Angels Fright, and I wasn't too focused on photos. What an amazing place.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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I'm currently finalizing a new edition of the Tahquitz and Suicide guidebook with Randy Vogel. Any new route info, topos, corrections, rating changes, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Much Obliged to anyone who has info,
Bob Gaines
to email info:
BGvertical@aol.com
To mail topos:
Bob Gaines
P.O. Box 7548
Newport Beach, CA 92658
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apogee
climber
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Bob-
Who's gonna publish it? I heard that Falcon said they weren't interested.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Eliot,
is that you climbing Fred? That route's high on my list for this season!
how is it?
-Nick
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Fred is an intense climb, but completely manageable. The bolts are really far apart at the top, however you are able to hangout for long periods of time before committing to cruxes. I waited 15 before making the final moves to the anchors. The 11- section is bolt protected, the real crux is keeping your sh*t together for the 10c sections 10-15 feet above your bolts. 11a/b is close to the limit for my climbing ability at Tahquitz,.....go get it!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Hey Nick, you definitely should get on it. I don't think it'd be a problem for you especially compared to other stuff I know you've done.
That's my buddy Phil in the shot and as you can see he barely made it to the top before the sun went down.
As far as the route goes, Port is right, you can hang out for a while on the edges before committing to any of the spicy moves.
However, I thought getting to the first bolt was a little heads up. Phil whipped on a 00 TCU equalized with a small stopper before the first bolt. When he jugged back up to his gear one of the lobes of the TCU wasn't even engaged anymore!
He said it didn't quite fit (too small) but he didn't have anything else. I think I remember placing a #1 metolius master cam at that spot and it fit well. Don't quote me on that though.
Sorry if that is too much info...
In all honesty though Fred is one of my favorite routes at Tahquitz. It's got it all.
Eliot
Btw, I'm heading to Suicide on Friday if either of you are interested.
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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absolutely amazing place to climb. was up there 09.10.2010 met a group from san diego who have been climbing there for years talking about how it wasnt that far of a drive for them. and here i am less then an hour away....a truely lucky man. the weather was amazing all day. as was the flower. my partner took his 1st and 5th lead falls off pitch one of flower of high rank.
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