Northeastern edition TRs 2

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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2009 - 10:36am PT
Dale, I haven't done that Huntington Ravine trail, but have heard it called the hardest
hike in NH. From your photo, I can see what the problem is.

Only been up the Pinnacle Ridge once, years ago. Like you, we had perfect weather.

Now I want to hear about meclimber's day on Cannon.

Do tell.
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 7, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
Dale: Looks like Troy and you had a perfect day! Nice job and great pics.

It was beautiful in Crawford notch too and my first time on this climb. I'm sure Chiloe will recognize it..

The crux pitch:

the 4th pitch:
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
I'm sure Chiloe will recognize it..

I surely do. Two falls ago that route inspired the original Northeastern edition TRs thread.

So how'd ya like it?
perswig

climber
Sep 7, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
^^Ha, the thread that outed Larry as bionic.

Tradchick, glad you got some good vista climbing in. These are the days to be venturing a bit afield. Short days and variable wx will be coming soon enough.
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 7, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Across the Universe...a climb that I'd wanted to do for a long time and it lived up to it's reputation.

A great view, nice slab/face climbing on beautiful rock and was going wooohooo after the crux! A little runout but my chicken self didn't lead any of the climb either.
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
Sep 8, 2009 - 10:32am PT
Beautiful day on cannon yesterday. With the exception of all the excitment to climb a new route for me on cannon I neglected to read the route description, for that fact I don't think I have ever read it. I knew whereabouts the climb started and I knew where the climb ended. And in between was anybody's guess. The original plan was to climb weissners dike, but apparently we only made it as far as weissners butress. Fun climbing past some relics brought us to a belay on a nice comfy ledge, this is where things got interesting. I could see a dike, the dike above us shooting out left. So with the original plan of following the dike my partner climbed up and left. I don't know how the climbing was because I had to hide behind our backpack on the belay as to avoid the copious amounts of rocks coming down on me. My partner had only done Moby before and really wasn't too familar with cannon. As a result of this he had climbed up into 'the zone' directly under the remains of whaleback crack. An easy 4th class traverse brough us back to the top of the old mans dog and a chance to unrope for lunch. At this point we could see the classic corner so we thought it was in the bag. And it was, another random pitch and half eventually brought us to climbing I recognized and to the archival flake and the corner. We met some people coming up weissners dike proper, about 250' to our climbers right, one of them being a cannon pioneer. And they asked us what route we where, of course I responded the dike, still thinking that where we were. And he responded with, no they were on the dike, he didn't know where we were. All in all fun adventure climbing that I would do again in a heartbeat.
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
Sep 9, 2009 - 05:52am PT
Nice TradChick, the universe's are great. The Milkyway is a great pitch. Did you guys finish with End of the universe?
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 9, 2009 - 07:05am PT
Meclimber: The Milkway pitch is stellar! We bailed after that pitch as 2 of us had family commitments.

Sounds like you had quite the experience on Cannon. Cannon is always an adventure and one of my favorite places to climb.
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
Sep 9, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
Cannon's great. Willard is tons of fun too, I think that there are a couple newerish routes 100' to the left of ATU that go to the traverse ledge. A buddy climbed one of them the last time we went up the universe. Great pics. You'll have to tell me how to post pictures here and NEclimbs, kinda techno-retarded.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
Chiloe, I think you've met Josh? He was my partner on my recent (successful!) run up Epinephrine. Anyway, here's his report from Labor Day weekend: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2204262;#2204262

GO
perswig

climber
Sep 19, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
Where were we?

The drive in.

End of the approach, talus and riprap turning to kittylitter.

Holds from pitch 1 (source of the kittylitter).

Going up.

Looking down.

Across which notch?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2009 - 09:25am PT
Dale, is that one of them newfangled routes on Mt Webster?
perswig

climber
Sep 20, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Bing! Correct, Chiloe.
I think they're billed as 'adventure/sport' - some commitment, very little gear required. If you do all variations available (minus Bore Tide for us), it makes for a fun day out. Closest I've ever been to a sport route, I think.
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
Sep 21, 2009 - 10:41am PT
I had a friend on lost in the sun on sunday, did you see a guy and girl up there? I've wanted to explore up at the top of central couloir, ice climbing up there I've scooped lots of potential. Whatdyasay dale?
cowpoke

climber
Sep 21, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
that climbing looks fun and pretty "adventuresome" for sport (i.e., low-lying clouds and rope trailing away), perswig!

you've been getting out to some interesting spots...thanks for posting up the reports!
perswig

climber
Sep 22, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
Cowpoke, just kidding a bit about the 'sport' thing; bolted, but not a clipup area at all. In fact, I was brashly thinking as we looked up from the toe of the slab that it might be a good place to do some soloing, but now I'm not so sure. More than once I thought "5.6?" and had to pay more attention than I would have expected. We also sought out some of the more sustained steep slab, and it was as good as the best WH.

Jon, you know it! Lots of rock up there. Looking up from our high point on the slab, we could see a large band of blocking-looking cliff, with a deep Black Dike-like feature in the middle. It looks a bit loose, but knowing your penchant for Cannon, you'd be right at home. Let me know if you're up for some recon - I'd be glad to poke around up there before things get too chilly.

Edit: We were up on Thursday, so saw a different party (in one of the pics), Jon. It's been getting a fair bit of traffic, it seems.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Sep 22, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
Just a reminder to all you Northeast folks that this coming Sat.--Sept. 26 (rain date on Sun.) is the Western Mass. Climber's Rendezvous in Wendell State Forest, Wendell, Mass.--just south of Route 2 about 10 miles east of exit 25 (Route 2 east)on I-91. Registration starts at 8am, there is free breakfast, tours of some of our crags--Farley and Rose Ledges, Mormon Hollow--with choices of sport, trad, top-roping and bouldering, a "fun-bouldering comp." on a newly-cleaned circuit in the State Forest(extra charge), a kids top-roping crag--real rock, family activities, bouldering-pad jousting, dinner(extra charge), and the New England premiere (I think)of this year's Reel Rock Tour in the evening.It should be a great time. Event camping is available in the State Forest.This is a fund-raiser for the Western Mass Climber's Coalition to help pay off our debt for the parking lot we purchased at Farley. Check the WMCC website for more details.
perswig

climber
Oct 6, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
So things looked bleak for climbing this weekend, so I braced myself for 2 days of trying to avoid chores. That is, until Sara reminded me of her birthday present.
Having literally grown up in an amusement park, I've got a soft spot for midways and their ilk; knowing this, every time I ask Sara what she wants for her birthday, she says "Take me to the fair."

Lots of kids.

And kids.

After watching some 4H horse classes, we wandered down to the herding trials.


"That'll do."


When in Rome ... eat like a fiend.
and
hot pretzels,
cotton candy,
caramel corn,
doughboys,
and funnel cakes.
(urp)

We managed to find the right arena in time to catch a tense and well-battled Junior Goat Fitting and Showmanship class. The Champion Junior Showman(woman) totally earned her bitchin' award mug.

Lots of cattle, all looking good.


(check out the bling)

Some porcine participants.
Where I come from, we call this 'side by each'. Some might say 'cheek by jowl'.
Boar'd yet? He is.

Of course, the rides. Just hearing them, smelling them, strikes a chord.



And despite all the machinery, all the bright colors, some kids prefer nature's amusements.

We had a great time.
No sh#t.

End of good day. Maybe not climbing, but nonetheless...















perswig

climber
Oct 20, 2009 - 09:00am PT
This week in the northeast may be nature's apology for her bad behavior this spring.
Get out and get you some, folks.

Dale
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
Oct 20, 2009 - 09:51am PT
Dale, I love the TR. The Fryeburg Fair is almost as classic as standard rt. I would love to get up and explore on webster. I started up lost in the sun or some other route once and got rained off. In the winter I've been up in the greens chasm/cental coloir area a few times. My guess is the black dike looking thing is greens, pretty impressive up there. Brad white earlier this year led a route on the headwall up there. There is a beautiful OW up there and some incredible stuff(maybe) on the walls of greens. I'll pm you and maybe in the begining of november we can try to sneak up.
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